[romaniandude86]

the piece in the front of the intake manifold that comes off together with the manifold, i got a leak there, after i just installed them back on, and i am not sure where the coolant is coming out. there is that one short pipe that sticks out from the block that joins with the part when it sits on top, and i don't think its from there, but on the right of it there is another hole and i am not sure if its just a mold in the block or an actual hole and if there is something missing. i pour coolant in the rad, and before it fills up, it starts to escape from that area somewhere.

PLEASE show me a layout of that top portion there, or let me know if i am missing something...


Thanks guys.

 

[swift]

maybe this will help...

just draw us a red arrow to the area...

 

[romaniandude86]

how do i make that picture bigger and still understand what it says on it?
i need to see it bigger so i can understand the picture and the writing.

do you have the file larger?

 

[Kenso]

how do i make that picture bigger and still understand what it says on it?
i need to see it bigger so i can understand the picture and the writing.

do you have the file larger?

Hope this helps. Several places where it could be leaking. Hard to guess without seeing it in person.

 

[romaniandude86]

thanks. it looks good. it seems to me that i forgot to put a bolt to tigheten the water pass part in place, its held by two bolts on each side, and i don't seem to find one on the right side, next to the upper rad hose. so that seems to be the problem. i need to buy a bolt.

another thing? what is 108 inch-lbs, that's the torque on the fuel rail mounting bolts. and i don't know how to tighten them? i had a loss of fuel at the rails when i put the ignition on. i replaced the orings for the injectors, and now i need to buy a bolt because i broke it. and hope that takes care of it.


let me know..thanks.

 

[bl420]

another thing? what is 108 inch-lbs, that's the torque on the fuel rail mounting bolts. and i don't know how to tighten them?

use a torque wrench

 

[stir_fry_boy]

if not from the coolant inlet bypass pipe, then it would be comming from the thermostat housing or under the intake manifold if the leak is in front and near that little pipe.

 

[wolfalp]

You guys jinxed me. My car is now leaking from the inlet bypass. I tried to tighten the four bolts down to stop the leak and what do I hear as I tighten one... yes the dreaded crack. #[email protected]! I slowly back the bolt out and it comes out in one piece but with a break half way through the bolt. Never seen that before I always have them break off in the block. So now time to get all four bolts and new o rings.

 

[romaniandude86]

it turns out the coolant was leaking from there but mostly from a small hose in the back of the manifold that connects i think to the block, and i didnt' notice. but i got it in place now, and my dad decided to tighten the water pass bolt that was missing a little too much and it broke in the hole, so now i got a thread stuck in the damn hole and i have no clue how to take it out. i tried 2 kinds of bolt removes, but no luck. and i am so frustrated. i don't know how to get it out.. what do i use?????
and a funny thing. my fuel rail bolt that was broken, is not to be found anywhere in toronto at the dealers, and they're flying it overnight from Vancouver, a blot worth 0.98 dollars. LOL

 

[Merlin the Wrench]

Since you appear to be snapping bolts and the next time you may not be so lucky - Do yourself a huge favor if you will be working on your car again, go to Sears or even Ebay and pick up two or three torque wrenchs. Sears has some sets. There are places that will take them apart and recalibrate them if you buy them used. Team Torque is the best place to send a used wrench. You'll find that you'll need 3 or 4 different sizes to span the range from inch pounds to the flywheel damper.

A tension bolt is designed to stretch a certain amount. If it is overtorqued it may snap. If it is undertorqued it may break as well. For most people, the over-torquing aspect is easy to understand but the under torquing isn't. When that bolt is not tensioned it can stretch and loosen a little each time a load is place on it. Eventually that cycle can cause it to break. A shear bolt is torqued to be sure it is tight so it doesn't loosen. Often larger shear bolts will have cotter pins in them to be sure they don't unscrew. The shear bolt carries a load side to side while the tension bolt carries it lengthwise.

 

[LPB]

The coolant passage (front, under intake manifold) can only be removed by removing the intake manifold. The water (coolant) by-pass inlet pipe (thermostat base - coolant passage) can only be removed after the intake is removed. There are a couple of sm coolant hoses (fast idle valve, EACV) connected to a coolant passage pipe which runs from the thermostat base, under the intake manifold. One of the heater hoses is connected to this pipe. This pipe has an O-ring which could degrade and seep at the thermostat base. Perform a Search. I provided a DIY for the intake manifold removal to repair a leaking water by-pass inlet pipe. If you have to remove the intake manifold, now would be the time to replace all of the injector O-rings, cushions, seals as they may be seeping. Order new fuel rail sealing washers.

Sears has a torque meter which is the best thing since sliced bread.

 

[swift]

The coolant passage (front, under intake manifold) can only be removed by removing the intake manifold. The water (coolant) by-pass inlet pipe (thermostat base - coolant passage) can only be removed after the intake is removed.

That is not 'entirely" accurate..

I loosened mine and removed the thermostat housing because i cracked it. The retightened two lbs over so the intake gaskets would hold. But i had to remove the heads a month later... :vomit: