Acura Legend Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
583 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Finally got the overheating under control and could play with my new toys.

Installed the Crane HI-6 and LX92 today. Makes a difference. Starts smoother. Runs better. Performs better. How much? not sure. But I know from running simular setups in the past that it is well worth the $.
Got 4 mpg more in a vw and est. 6-9 hp (which is A LOT for a vw)
I'll let you know how it works out on the L over time.

Install was a breeze. Rate it a 4 out of 10. If you have a screwdriver, drill, wire strippers/crimpers, and if you can make those tools work for you, your pretty much ready to go.
Took about an hour to install. Cost $197 after handling from JEGS.

Heres the rundown from Crane:
http://www.cranecams.com/whatsnew/hi6vsmsd.htm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
HEY BUKOWSKI!!!!!!!!

I need your help. I too have a Crane cam ignition set-up ( HI-6 & LX91 coil ). Everywhere I go tuners tell me it going to take at least 3 hours to install the crane cam set-up but I've read that you and Mike Cruz have installed your ignition set-up in about an hour ( I sure wish I could get one of you guys to install my system ). What can I do to combat this problem? I'm trying to install it on my 90 coupe. Also how is the system improving on the performance of your car and how about some info on the strut bar you have installed. Which one did you purchase, I'm trying to locate two that I can do a little modifying to for my car. I want one for the front and rear.:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
583 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey Biggs,
I'm gonna write up EASY instructions for G1 install and take a couple photos. I'll post 'em on here and let Mythical have them for his site: http://www.geocities.com/g1legend/

I'm still working on the strut brace, I'll get the manu name tomorrow, already threw out the box and am going by AutoZone anyway, so I'll get the name for you. Getting the metal to do it up like I wanted it tomorrow also. Will keep all posted.

DO NOT PAY ANYONE to do the install. I PROMISE that you will be able to do it, inside two hours.

Biggs, Send me your Email at [email protected] and I'll get an early copy of the instructions (with extra pics):cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
583 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Supplement part 1

DO NOT CUT ANY CONNECTORS OFF. It will void your warranty. While some of these instructions may seem elementary, they are not "all inclusive", they are meant to be an aid to supplement the factory instructions and they are what worked on my 1988 Sedan. Your car may be different. By using these instructions you are assumed to have a little common sense, knowledge of tools, and use them at your own risk.

First tag all the wires with masking tape flags (write what they connect to on the flag). You will remove the tape flags after install and test run.
The wires (coming out of HI-6 ignition box) used are as follows:
Heavy Red = 12v Battery
Heavy Black = Ground
Blue (cylinder select) = Ground
Orange (on plug attached with black) = Coil Positive (+)
Black (on plug attached with orange) = Coil Negative (-)
Red (on plug attached with white) = Switched 12 volt positive (+)
White (on plug attached with red) = Trigger
Brown w/White Stripe (retard input) = Not used/Tape Up
Yellow w/White Stripe (stage limit input) = Not used/Tape Up
Green (tach) = Not used/Tape Up

Your mounting locations may vary from mine and you must adjust your wire length/routing to accommodate. Do not lengthen the heavy black ground wire.
I mounted the HI-6 at an angle between the battery and the inner fender.
I mounted the coil near the factory location (#1 in photo below). Using my method of coil mounting/wiring will enable you to EASILY replace the stock coil without worrying about wire placement later. It also allowed use of the stock length coil primary wire (to the distributor). The key to easy coil wiring is making these two "T" connectors (#2 in photo below), and using correct placement of the connectors on the existing coil wires. The small stock ignition module that is grounded on the coil bracket is easily moved to location #3 in photo. The Blue (cylinder select) wire and the Heavy Black (negative) are grounded under module at #4.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
583 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Part 2

Attach the grounds and the stock ignition module to the ground in # 4 above.

To make the "idiot proof" T connectors: use wire at least as large as the gauge you are connecting, crimp a Female Spade Connector to the bottom of a 4" wire to make the bottom leg of the T. To make the top of the T follow the following directions:

SEE PHOTO

Use electrical tape to cover the bare wires and then heat shrink over the tape. Use a Female Spade Connector on one arm of the T and a Male Spade Connector on the other. Make 2 of these "T"s.
Attach the bottom leg of the T to the Thin Red Wire on the ignition box, and one to the Thin White wire on the same plug (both wires are attached to one 2 hole plug).

Cut the Black w/Yellow Stripe wire from the Large Plug on the stock Coil about 1.5" from the plug. Attach a Female Spade Connector to the wire on the plug side, and a Male Spade Connector to the wire on the harness. Attach the wire from the harness to one end of the Thin Red "T".
Cut the Blue w/White Stripe wire from the Large Plug on the stock Coil about 1.5" from the plug. Attach a Female Spade Connector to the wire on the plug side, and a Male Spade Connector to the wire on the harness. Attach the wire from the harness to one end of the Thin White "T".
Save the Large coil plug (I keep mine plugged into the coil).

Cut the Black w/Yellow Stripe wire from the Small Plug on the stock Coil about 1.5" from the plug. Attach a Male Spade Connector to the wire on the plug side, and a Female Spade Connector to the wire on the harness. Attach the wire from the harness to one end of the Thin Red "T".
Cut the Blue w/White Stripe wire from the Small Plug on the stock Coil about 1.5" from the plug. Attach a Male Spade Connector to the wire on the plug side, and a Female Spade Connector to the wire on the harness. Attach the wire from the harness to one end of the Thin White "T".
Save the Small coil plug (I keep mine plugged into the coil).

So what you should have to keep in the trunk in an emergency is: your old stock coil still mounted to it's bracket. Attached to the coil is the Large Plug with two Female Spade Connectors on it and the Small Plug with two Male Spade connectors on it. This way if you have to reinstall the stock setup, just match the colors of the wires and the type of plug and you won't get your wires crossed. Keep the 12mm bolts for the coil bracket in the bag with your coil in the trunk.

Attach the coil wires (orange and black, both on same plug) to the coil.

I wedged all my "extra" taped off wires between the fuse box and the inner fender.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
583 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Part 2

Attach the grounds and the stock ignition module to the ground in # 4 above.

To make the "idiot proof" T connectors: use wire at least as large as the gauge you are connecting, crimp a Female Spade Connector to the bottom of a 4" wire to make the bottom leg of the T. To make the top of the T follow the following directions:

SEE PHOTO BELOW

Use electrical tape to cover the bare wires and then heat shrink over the tape. Use a Female Spade Connector on one arm of the T and a Male Spade Connector on the other. Make 2 of these "T"s.
Attach the bottom leg of the T to the Thin Red Wire on the ignition box, and one to the Thin White wire on the same plug (both wires are attached to one 2 hole plug).

Cut the Black w/Yellow Stripe wire from the Large Plug on the stock Coil about 1.5" from the plug. Attach a Female Spade Connector to the wire on the plug side, and a Male Spade Connector to the wire on the harness. Attach the wire from the harness to one end of the Thin Red "T".
Cut the Blue w/White Stripe wire from the Large Plug on the stock Coil about 1.5" from the plug. Attach a Female Spade Connector to the wire on the plug side, and a Male Spade Connector to the wire on the harness. Attach the wire from the harness to one end of the Thin White "T".
Save the Large coil plug (I keep mine plugged into the coil).

Cut the Black w/Yellow Stripe wire from the Small Plug on the stock Coil about 1.5" from the plug. Attach a Male Spade Connector to the wire on the plug side, and a Female Spade Connector to the wire on the harness. Attach the wire from the harness to one end of the Thin Red "T".
Cut the Blue w/White Stripe wire from the Small Plug on the stock Coil about 1.5" from the plug. Attach a Male Spade Connector to the wire on the plug side, and a Female Spade Connector to the wire on the harness. Attach the wire from the harness to one end of the Thin White "T".
Save the Small coil plug (I keep mine plugged into the coil).

So what you should have to keep in the trunk in an emergency is: your old stock coil still mounted to it's bracket. Attached to the coil is the Large Plug with two Female Spade Connectors on it and the Small Plug with two Male Spade connectors on it. This way if you have to reinstall the stock setup, just match the colors of the wires and the type of plug and you won't get your wires crossed. Keep the 12mm bolts for the coil bracket in the bag with your coil in the trunk.

Attach the coil wires (orange and black, both on same plug) to the coil.

I wedged all my "extra" taped off wires between the fuse box and the inner fender.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
583 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Part 2

The photo below shows the location of the HI-6.

#1 is the routing of the wires going to the New Coil.
#2 is the routing of the wire going to the battery.
#3 is the routing of the wires going to the Stock Coil harness, and the extra unused taped off HI-6 wires.
#4 shows the HI-6 Status LED which is visible from the drivers seat with the hood up.

Gap your plugs to .045.

Attach the Heavy Red to the battery and you should be ready to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
583 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I know it sounds like a bunch of hooey, but it really is easy once you look at the crane and it's instructions and under your hood.
Hope it helps someone out,
buk out.:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
285 Posts
hey guys i think i found something..of course raising thread from the dead....i realize this is a crane ignition but do you think the same would apply for an msd blaster 2 coil???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,027 Posts
our ignition is all computer controlled, we have coil packs. dv8 attempted an MSD system a while back, but it failed to run well at all.
 

·
Life Ruiner
Joined
·
4,701 Posts
RangerJoe said:
our ignition is all computer controlled, we have coil packs. dv8 attempted an MSD system a while back, but it failed to run well at all.
He installed it on a gen 1.

moving now
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top