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Crank shaft pully bolt woes

1075 Views 5 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  NickD
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Well, I figured while I am taking my engine apart I might as well do the timing belt, it's been ~83k since it was last done.

So here I am trying to get that darn bolt off. I read through old topics on it, tried the impact, tried jamming the cam gears (belt slipped) and finally I came up with a solution. A steering wheel puller, 1/2 3" extension bar and a 5/8" wrench did the trick. I first tried a "Forged" Made in Taiwan 11/16" wrench, this is what happened:



Then the 5/8" I used was a Craftsman. Worked fine :) The contraption I came up with was sort of a makeshift version of the Honda tool. Here's a pictures of it:



and this one too:



Turns out the bolt was so tight because the last person to do the timing belt put permament loctite on the threads of the bolt. It was flaking off. Took a total of ~3 hours to remove one bolt. :eek:
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YOU ARE THE MAN!

NickD said:
Well, I figured while I am taking my engine apart I might as well do the timing belt, it's been ~83k since it was last done.

So here I am trying to get that darn bolt off. I read through old topics on it, tried the impact, tried jamming the cam gears (belt slipped) and finally I came up with a solution. A steering wheel puller, 1/2 3" extension bar and a 5/8" wrench did the trick. I first tried a "Forged" Made in Taiwan 11/16" wrench, this is what happened:.......

....Then the 5/8" I used was a Craftsman. Worked fine :) The contraption I came up with was sort of a makeshift version of the Honda tool. Here's a pictures of it:...

...Turns out the bolt was so tight because the last person to do the timing belt put permament loctite on the threads of the bolt. It was flaking off. Took a total of ~3 hours to remove one bolt. :eek:
Great job and effort! ;) ;) Thanks for providing the pics and tips. You have probably saved unknown numbers of future victims of bruised knuckles and Benjamins ($$). At least, me! THANK YOU :D :D

regards,

_______________
eddie
95 LS 6sp
since i take the crank pulley off more than any other part on my car, get an 18 in breaker bar, slide a metal conduit tube over it that extends another foot or so, attach a 19mm socket to the end of the bar and on the crank bolt. have some one hold the pipe firm by the passanger fender. then cautiosly crank the engine over not even once. a half a crank should break it loose, as if it were ice.


to tighiten it back up wedge a bar in between the flywheel. this locks the crank from spinning.




~Hybrid
Dv8 said:
since i take the crank pulley off more than any other part on my car, get an 18 in breaker bar, slide a metal conduit tube over it that extends another foot or so, attach a 19mm socket to the end of the bar and on the crank bolt. have some one hold the pipe firm by the passanger fender. then cautiosly crank the engine over not even once. a half a crank should break it loose, as if it were ice.
/B]


That is exactly what I was thinking of doing but when I got to the point when I was finally going to pull the pully off I was lacking a radiator, battery, and an intake manifold along with valve covers. I tossed around the idea of maybe trying it anyway but I was afraid at that point of damaging the starter since the bolt was so tight. I have to estimate I had somewhere between 400 - 500 lb/tq on that bolt. I had a breaker bar with the center pipe from a fake christmas tree extending it out another 3-4 feet and when I got that contraption setup it still took a great deal of force to break it loose.
NickD said:


That is exactly what I was thinking of doing but when I got to the point when I was finally going to pull the pully off I was lacking a radiator, battery, and an intake manifold along with valve covers. I tossed around the idea of maybe trying it anyway but I was afraid at that point of damaging the starter since the bolt was so tight. I have to estimate I had somewhere between 400 - 500 lb/tq on that bolt. I had a breaker bar with the center pipe from a fake christmas tree extending it out another 3-4 feet and when I got that contraption setup it still took a great deal of force to break it loose.
400-500 lb ft!!!!!!??

your gonna **** up you crank with that much pressure

oh id be carefull putting it back on.

i belive the manuals suggested pressure is 170 something.

~Hybrid
The bolt wasn't in THAT tight, it was the Loctite holding the bolt in place that required the mad amounts of force to break free. I had a 300 ft/lb impact wrench on it after soaking it in WD40 and it didn't move.

Since I held the pully itself in place all the force was going from the pully to the key in the crank shaft to the end of the shaft surrounding the bolt itself. All that is forged metal and should withstand what I did without a problem at all.

Putting it back in I believe you are right, 170lb or 175lb. Something around there.
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