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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
tons of white smoke, rough idle, white cream in oil.. no oil in the radiator (atleast not yet), almost perfect compression... what gives?

I just replaced cylinder 1's piston and a headgasket, fired it up and its running like crap, it stalls every few minutes or so and its got a ton of white smoke that doesnt smell like syup at all and seems to dissapear after floating for a minute, but does kinda smell like actual coolant i guess? the oil cap and valve covers have a alot of white cream inside like coolant is mixing but so far i havent seen any oil in the radiator. pulled all the plugs and smoke came rolling out cylinder 1 and 2. Cylinder 1's spark plug is covered in burnt oil and cylinder 2's was a little wet. the plugs only have like 30 minutes run time on them.

I guess its the headgasket but every cylinder is holding 179-180psi, thats almost perfect! there is also no oil showing up in my radiator either so thats strange..

anyone think the coolant could be entering the intake manifold somehow and blowing past the rings into the oil after it gets into the cylinder? that would explain why no oil is in the coolant..

Maybe the rings could have blown in cylinder 1 and that explains the oil on the plug and maybe gas could be making the oil frothy? it sure doesnt smell like gas and doesnt explain #2 smoking..
 

· Mo*or Mo**h
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Sounds like water alright.
Frothing may indicate a clean breech into the cylinder via a water port in the head.

The lifter area could be affected if the valve timing were off. Timing belt?
What does the other cylinder on that bank look like?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
if timing was off, that would throw compression results off due to the valves opening early/late, and whats that got to do with white cream in my oil?

#3 is the last cylinder on that bank, and the spark plug looks good, no smoke/steam comming out of the plug hole. only the newly repaired #1 and the cylinder beside it #2 has smoke comming out the plug hole after running it.
 

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uhhh shoting in the dark...maybe another piston got damaged or could be cracked.
well if theres a leak within the intake manafold it could be burning it...it's possible that once you stop running the engine the coolant would seep down past the rings....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
oh, one more thing.. after it hydrolocked it wasnt smoking any more than usual, it just ran like crap and made a tapping sound from the skirt hitting the crank lobe.. im gona look in the intake manifold for coolant on my way to the head and retorque the head down to like 65-70lbs if nothings in the manifold, if that dont work i guess ill just finish her off with some stop leak lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
after it hydrolocked i had to replace a cracked piston and bent rod. the engine didnt actually lock, it just messed alot of stuff up. it actually kept running and i turned it off myself. didnt have to remove the plugs to get the water out, it kept running so it all blew out the tail pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i just had a idea, ill just fill the radiator with gasoline lol then it will just run richer, it would probably run alot better, but i might also die... maybe half gasoline lol
 

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you have a cracked head because we have alluminum heads which are weaker then the piston and rod so it will go first go get some heads off the motor you got the piston from

Im suprized someone didnt tell you!
 

· Mo*or Mo**h
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This is an "interfearance" engine, so a bent rod comes from a clash with the valves, especially when only one rod is affected and the engine still runs. I presume you did check the valves when you replaced the rod. Could be they still work, just not at spec. Can't really imagine getting proper compression if so, but it is possible.

Tell me you didn't replace a rod and not the rings.

The tapping you claim as a "skirt hitting a crank lobe" could only occur with a bent rod. Perhaps more than one rod was bent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
a rod bending could mess up a valve due to the compression it takes to bend a rod.. but it doesnt have anything to do with interferance, when rods bend the piston gets shorter so there is even less of a chance of it contacting a valve. your thinking about a timing belt breaking and the rod comming up while the valves are open.. The car wasnt burning coolant after the rod bent.. possibly it could have lost compression because the rod bent and not made the block leak, but the piston next to it is leaking too and the rod fine on it.. its gota be somthing i screwed up on putting her back together... i guess im just due for another tear down as much as i hate to say.. im ordering a JDM engine anyway, but ill have labor away on this engine since i have nothing better to do..
 

· I'van der Rohe
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john bigonion said:
Head Gasket Or Worse, Cracked Block Or Head!!!
that's what im thinking. there's a cracked waterjacket somewhere in the block and it's only going to get worse. If it were a burned headgasket there'd be transference of oil too.

It sounds like a cracked block or head.
 

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there are methods for retorqueing and removing your head do it wrong and you warp the head and did you take the head to a shop to make sure it wasnt cracked?
 

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Just a question. Did you flush all the oil in the oilpan AFTER reinstalling the head and replaced with new oil? I'm almost sure you did, but if you didn't...then all the water that fell into the oil passages while you were removing the head is now at the bottom of the oil pan and circulating through the system.

I'm assuming this since you say there is no oil in the radiator and there is compression.
 

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I say ya should have checked for head warpage. When you do your compression check, make sure those 2 spark plugs are removed. That way it wont be throwing off your readings if in fact its a wraped head or bad head gasket. This is what i most likely sounds like. Coolant can be pressureized enough by engine compression to be forced in the oil passages.
 

· I'van der Rohe
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question.

have you done a leak down test as well or just a compression test? a leak down will give you some needed additional information to decipher whether BHG or cracked block.

the C2x engine is strong, so a cracked block/head im kinda skeptical of, but it's ENTIRELY ENTIRELY plausible and very likely to could have happened with what you're saying.

lacaci said:
Just a question. Did you flush all the oil in the oilpan AFTER reinstalling the head and replaced with new oil? I'm almost sure you did, but if you didn't...then all the water that fell into the oil passages while you were removing the head is now at the bottom of the oil pan and circulating through the system.

I'm assuming this since you say there is no oil in the radiator and there is compression.
good point. i just assumed that he'd changed the oil...

Steveman09 said:
He's screwed, he did the carlot approach and it bit him in the a$$.

Just get a JDM motor in there, she deserves it.
:werd::giggle:

hey Steveman, you got some extra pics of your car. im diggin that shot in your sig.
 

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exactly, think of the forces your dealing with! hydrolocking is a very violent and powerful thing. I have seen an F22 out of an accord blow rods through the block from hyrdolocking. Its also possible you may have broken an internal water passage in the block thats leaking coolant into the bottom of the engine.
 
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