Acura Legend Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

· I'van der Rohe
Joined
·
13,069 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
2.7legend said:
well i can't show you a pic.
but i can say its on the front cam shaftyou would have to remove the t-belt and the gear thingy it's right there.....
yea, i know it's on there, i just need to know if it's a 4 pickup or a 2 pickup. without CDI ignition, im not sure whether or not the C25/7 would use a double dual pickup arrangement. If anything do you know where i can get a diagram of the ECU's ignition input and out put?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,259 Posts
Bang&Olufsen DK said:
yea, i know it's on there, i just need to know if it's a 4 pickup or a 2 pickup. without CDI ignition, im not sure whether or not the C25/7 would use a double dual pickup arrangement. If anything do you know where i can get a diagram of the ECU's ignition input and out put?
Hey Bang&Olufsen DK... I'm just wondering if you've got the ECU diagram from jmm67 yet, if not then try this link;

http://techauto.te.funpic.org/index.php?content=ECU

... hope this helps! ;)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,316 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Please help. I am having my HG replaced and my mechanic said the tar that originally covered the crankshaft sensor has almost completely melted away. He is not sure if that is a problem or not and why the tar was there in the first place. He suggest that I have that replaced as well while he timing belt is off. He also suggest that I replace all the hg bolts. (I think there are 16 of them)

Please advice.
 

· Mo*or Mo**h
Joined
·
1,730 Posts
Yeah, replace the Crank/Angle Sensor for sure while doing the timing belt.

Cannot imagine why the bolts would need replacing, however. Never heard that one. Least some bolt heads got torqued off or rounded out.

As for tar, it's not original equipment. You talkin' fat oil or gasket stuff?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,316 Posts
Nope, hes right, on the crank angle sensor, its isolated in a tar substance to keep vibration down and the components inside free from water and shock. If all this melts out ... its only time before it fails ... and if it melts ... its under extremely high temps.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
638 Posts
your are allways supposed to change the bolts because they have a stretch limit to them so they wont break when the engine heats up from thermal expansion. Once you torque them down they arent exactly the same as new bolts and arent supposed to be used again, the factory specs of 56lbs tq only applies to new bolts and it may be less if you reuse them since they are stretched some already. The bolts should be at correct stretch and torque because if they stretch beyond their limit then they will either break or they wont fully come back down when the engine cools, the head will be lose then you have a blown gasket either way.

I didnt replace mine and they are fine so far, i've never heard of it causing a problem, but then again ive never heard of anyone else changing and head and using the same bolts. I say if you got the extra money its a good idea to protect your invest ment, i know you paid alot just for the job so you might as well buy the bolts.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top