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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
DIY - EGR removal w/ pics

1. You are going to get annoyed. The EGR valve is in a very tight location.
2. This is taken with the intake manifold already removed.
3. Approx time: 40minutes or MORE. (15 if your pro and girly hands)
4. Becareful not to lose any nuts or bolts!
5. EGR is located on the passanger side right next to the intake manifold. Where the firewall is. It's next to the black box. (remove that black box)
6. AFter step 3, there is a gasket. Go to dealership and buy a new one.
EGR REMOVAL: (fallow the pictures step 1-7)



Start with removing the strut brace (you don't have a choice)
Step1:
Remove the hose

Step 2.
Disconnect the harness

Step 3.
Remove the 2 bolts, 10 or 12mm rachet will do it. Once they are removed, the top of the EGR will come off.



Step 4:
Approx 1-2inches below the step3 nuts, are 2 more nuts. Remove them. you'll need a 10mm or 12mm rachet.


Step 5:
Next you will need to remove 2 bolts about 1-2inches below the nuts in step 4. They are on TIGHT. Remember, if you are on standing on the passangers side, push towards the drivers side. What u are removing is the right side of the pipeing that goes into the intake manifold. The seventh Step will remove this pipe.


Step 6
Traveling another 1-2inches under step 5 will be 2 more bolts. Once you remove these 2bolts, the whole EGR can be removed.


Step 7
Finally, if you wish to clean the EGR system correctly, you'll have to remove the EGR -> intake manifold(lower plenum) pipe. It's a PAIN IN THE ASS but do able. This pipe is FILLED with carbon. It's digusting. Remove this bad boy and clean it out well!!!

 

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Good pics man, especially with the manifold off the car as to see where the bolts should be on the far end of the EGR pipe. YOU CAN'T SEE THOSE FAR NUTS without removal of the manifold!!! THEY ARE A PAIN IN THE ACE TO GET AT!!! I did mine in about 1 hr and it was my first time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
champ5spd4dr said:
Good pics man, especially with the manifold off the car as to see where the bolts should be on the far end of the EGR pipe. YOU CAN'T SEE THOSE FAR NUTS without removal of the manifold!!! THEY ARE A PAIN IN THE ACE TO GET AT!!! I did mine in about 1 hr and it was my first time.
Thanks for the kind words. I have to do this AGAIN on my other legend w/ the intake manifold still on. I'll get the experience the PITA way :)
 

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Don't move your pictures!! you moved your pictures for the umm... Power Seat thread I think and they're all Xs..it was one of your picture threads anyways ;)

I usually save them to my hard drive just in case =p
 

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Only cleaning the out the 3 components mentioned above may not clear up any issues you man have with the EGR system. I did this without pulling the intake manifold to clean that out and I am still having a very sluggish acceleration. I may have a bad component in the EGR system, but I know the main valve/diaphram is working properly.

:(
 

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I've removed the intake and EGR pipe. The end of the EGR pipe that connects to the intake was mighty cruddy. The other end of the EGR pipe where it connects to the EGR looked OK.

Now the question, when you removed the entire EGR housing (steps 4 and 6 of the fine DIY), did that part show any signs of clogging?

I've got gaskets due to arrive tomorrow, but didn't order any for the EGR housing (4 bolts) so I plan on leaving it alone since the blockage was at the other end of the EGR pipe at the intake. Does that make sense? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If I understand your question correctly, there will be a mild carbon build up. But, not as severe as the pipe itself.

reguarding the gaskets: You can get away without replaced the gaskets. It might not be a "good idea". But I did it twice without any problems.
 

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I understand what you mean about reusing the gaskets. I'm doing that on 1 or 2 right now. :) It sounds like the gasket(s) usually comes off clean so I'll take my chances and pull it in the morning to give it a quick cleaning before putting the intake back on.

The EGR valve itself looked fine. So far the only real crud I've seen in the EGR system is where the EGR pipe connects to the bottom of the intake. One of the two ports on the intake was plugged 'big time'.

Can't wait to get this baby running. I hope I feel a noticeable difference. It'd be even better if the 'old lady' felt a diff, but that would be a miracle... :( Thanks for the info and TGIF :)
 

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question on the egr valve filter...did you guys replace yours?

you guys didnt mention anything about the filter and i didnt see any pic of it...in the helms...it says to replace it...i want to clean out my egr soon and since im taking it off i might as well change the filter also...

heres a pic...
 

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I didn't know an EGR filter existed...

I didn't take any of my EGR valve apart, I just removed the passage and cleaned it with a wire brush. There wasn't much in there. Really the main 'crud' is at the other end of the EGR pipe where it connects to the intake.

After cleaning the entire intake, the car runs much better and no water leaks... :)
 

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Where did you find that breakdown picture of the ERGR?

Legendarysleeper - Where did you find the breakdown picture of the EGR. I didn't know there was a filter in there either or I would have at least blown it out with air.

If that pic is in the Helms manual, please tell me what section/page number. Thanks!
 

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I'm not sure what you mean if you are not taking it all apart. Just disconnecting the main parts from the motor, I was able to reuse my gaskets without any problems. If you want new gaskets, you got to finger out exactly which ones you are taking apart.
 

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I would like to add one more,

Please use "protective gloves/cover" for your hands and arms, as you will get a lot of scratches on your hand and arms. I know it is very very very tight.

The glove must be strong but thing enough that you hands/fingers should move freely, otherwise, you will keep dropping nuts and bolts and it may take even more time to track those lost nuts and bolts...


And in most high miles legend cases, the EGR pipe probably well clogged. And then, try to remove the carbon build-up as much as possible as you will appreciate when you put the things back....

Just my 0.02 buck
 

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Well I finished it up yesterday but didnt get a chance to post. I felt around for the bolts on the egr pipe under the intake manifold, I think that would be your best bet. Also I removed most of the stuff that got in my way, except for the intake manifold, cleared up alot of space.
 

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My check engine light was complaining about the EGR valve. I replaced the EGR valve, but the light was still complaining about the EGR. I removed the whole intake, cleaned out the air bypass valve (bottom of the intake) and the EGR pipe which was 100% clogged where it bolted onto the bypass valve. After reassembling everything, the check engine light still complains even after resetting the light.

Other than removing the entire EGR housing (steps 4 and 6 of the great DIY pics at the beginning of this thread), is there anything else to try? Could the sensor be bad somehow? Where is that sensor? What about where the other end of the EGR pipe connects to the engine? I didn't do anything in there (the engine) since that end of the EGR pipe was not in bad shape.

Guess my next approach is to remove the EGR housing (steps 4 and 6). What's the best way to clean this out? Any other ideas? Thanks.
 
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