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Factory Freak!
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^^^^^^^^ I went to a local ACE hardware and got a really skinny pipe cleaner and some carb cleaner. Will prolly need to use the whole bottle of cleaner and some elbow grease in there. Once it gets soaked in and worked out it should come out in chunks. Have fun!
 

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Thank you DIY and Ballistic for this post! My idle started running rough and sputtering earlier this week so I took it the dealer. They ran diagnostics on her ($60) and determined it was the EGR Valve that needed replacing and their price was $430!!!!

After doing a little research on it I decided that there was no way in 'H' I was going to pay that much money for something that seemed like a simple fix and decided I could do it on my own. I have a 2005 TL so things looked slightly different under the hood but not so different that I couldn't figure it out. I bought the part for $75 and replaced it in about 2 hours start to finish including cleaning the IM which was hardly dirty. The nuts were the only part that I needed a mans help to remove but other than that it was a cinch! :)
 

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1. You are going to get annoyed. The EGR valve is in a very tight location.
2. This is taken with the intake manifold already removed.
3. Approx time: 40minutes or MORE. (15 if your pro and girly hands)
4. Becareful not to lose any nuts or bolts!
5. EGR is located on the passanger side right next to the intake manifold. Where the firewall is. It's next to the black box. (remove that black box)
6. AFter step 3, there is a gasket. Go to dealership and buy a new one.
EGR REMOVAL: (fallow the pictures step 1-7)



Start with removing the strut brace (you don't have a choice)
Step1:
Remove the hose

Step 2.
Disconnect the harness

Step 3.
Remove the 2 bolts, 10 or 12mm rachet will do it. Once they are removed, the top of the EGR will come off.



Step 4:
Approx 1-2inches below the step3 nuts, are 2 more nuts. Remove them. you'll need a 10mm or 12mm rachet.


Step 5:
Next you will need to remove 2 bolts about 1-2inches below the nuts in step 4. They are on TIGHT. Remember, if you are on standing on the passangers side, push towards the drivers side. What u are removing is the right side of the pipeing that goes into the intake manifold. The seventh Step will remove this pipe.


Step 6
Traveling another 1-2inches under step 5 will be 2 more bolts. Once you remove these 2bolts, the whole EGR can be removed.


Step 7
Finally, if you wish to clean the EGR system correctly, you'll have to remove the EGR -> intake manifold(lower plenum) pipe. It's a PAIN IN THE ASS but do able. This pipe is FILLED with carbon. It's digusting. Remove this bad boy and clean it out well!!!

I was looking for this, this is great!
 

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Photos are out of focus/blurry. Is there a way to view focused pics w/o starting a photobucket account? I’m accessing your post on an iPhone. Thanks for the help.
 

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I've cleaned my EGR Valve/Pipe/Passage twice. The first time was 2003 at 149k miles because my Gen2 Legend failed CA Smog's EGR Valve functional test, not actual NOx emissions. The 2003 dealer quote was $380 and that might have been before the $150 diagnostic fee. I bought all five OEM Honda gaskets back then for like $25 (EGR Valve, EGR Pipe (2), EGR Passage, EGR Cover Gasket). If you've never had the EGR cleaned before and you are over 120k miles, you might go thru everything, but in my experience, most clogging is in the EGR Pipe and under the EGR Cover where the EGR Pipe connects to the back of the intake. If it has been cleaned before, cleaning just the EGR Valve, EGR Pipe and the EGR Cover Hole into the back of the intake is probably fine. In my experience, there was very little carbon buildup in the lower EGR Passage (#6, see diagram). In 2013 at 200k miles (51k mile interval), I cleaned the EGR Valve, EGR Pipe and EGR Cover to Intake Hole (not the Passage) as preventative maintenance and it's wasn't very clogged. From this, I'm guessing an EGR Valve/Pipe preventative maintenance interval of 40-50k miles is good. I've never had to remove the Intake manifold.

1. Remove the strut brace
2. Place a thick foam camping pad/cardboard on the intake. Get comfortable laying on the intake/engine.
3. Unbolt the vacuum line box. Move aside. (label, photograph if you're going to disconnect any vacuum lines)
4. EGR Valve (#5, #3) bolts (2)
5. EGR Pipe Bolts (4). These are hidden. You have to work blind, going by feel. Use short ignition wrenches, 1/4" drive ratchet, ratchet wrenches, 1/4" drive swivel socket.
Have a telescopic magnetic parts retriever handy in case you drop something.
6. EGR Pipe (#8) Cleaning. I used a frayed 1/4" cable and carb/throttle body cleaner. The EGR Pipe end closest to the back of the intake is usually where the carbon deposits are the worst. If you're not going to remove the EGR Cover and gasket, make sure you clean the ~3/8" EGR Cover Hole into the intake with something like a screwdriver.
7. EGR Cover (#1). The first time, 2003, I did remove the EGR Cover and cleaned underneath. You don't have to remove this Cover to make sure the Cover Hole is clear, just use a screwdriver.
8. EGR Passage (#6). This is the chunk of metal below the EGR Valve. The first time, 2003, I did remove and check the EGR Passage. Very little amount of carbon deposits, so I skipped this in 2013 at 200k miles (preventative cleaning).

Use anti-sieze on the bolt threads to make future disassembly much easier!
If you get this far and have over 175k miles, you might consider replacing the 3 heater hoses, esp the one that goes in under the EGR Pipe. The OEM heater hoses do seem to last a long time.

Peter
1993 Acura Legend 5sp 212k miles
13549


 
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