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91 acura will not start

I have been reading the forums and I bought a new Main Relay plugged it up and thought I fixed the problem. The Car won't Start! I turned the key and no light, nothing comes on. I know their is battery and checked to see the power. I even checked the Main Relay to see if there was power going to it and there is. I don't think its my Ignition switch is the problem or could I be wrong. The key lights up the ignition but nothing on the dashboard lights up. Nothing comes on. Someone please help!

I have a 2 door Acura 92 Legend L 5-speed.
My Acura is doing the exact same thing. Have you received any solutions to this problem??
 

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Check your grounds and make sure they are all tight and not corroded. I'm not talking about the battery but the engine and body grounds.
 

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Rough/weird/sometimes perfect start ??

Hey guys, so heres the problem, ill try and post a video soon of this too if needed. Ok. So my legend, sometimes starts fine no issues. Whether it starts rough weird or good, its always running great ! which may eliminate some of the possibillities. Here's what its typically doing. WHen i turn the key (check engine is on) it will crank and turnover, then real quickly turn back off. Sometimes it does that (cranks, turns over, turns off) and then its will save itself and turn back on within a split second. Sometimes a little gas pedal works to start it. Sometimes i gave it gas, had the rpm up to 3 maybe 4k, and still shuts off. Like i said it runs fine. I just the other day did the plugs, fuel filter and a semi kinked intake vacuum hose. It seemed like one of the three did the job but now its back at it. Maybe a bad switch or igniter ? idk. If you need a video let me know. I can get one tomorrow... any questions let me know. thanks
 

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I'm unsure whether this qualifies as a revs-but-doesn't-start issue, but I don't want to start another thread on a similar subject, so I'll try posting about it here first

For about 2 weeks now, when I turn the ignition, my Legend will simply rev low and not start without repeated (around a dozen) very fast pumps of the throttle and one to get the engine going strong which, as we all know with our cars, should not be the case. This must be done nearly every time I start the car, sometimes not, if it's only been off for a few minutes. I've resoldered my EMI, checked the pulse of my injectors, checked for fuel pressure, changed my plugs and checked my coil packs... Before I continue scratching my head and go down the list of shit in the original post I thought I'd post about me just in case someone has an idea as to why this might be happening, and how to go about fixing it
 

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1995 Legend Sedan SE with automatic transmission. Was out shopping, came out to the car and it would crank but not start. Had it towed home. Thought maybe it was the high heat and humidity. Went out next day and it started right up. Drove it all day and I had one minor glitch. When the car was idling, motor just shut off. Cranked it right up, started and ran fine the rest of the day. Next day (this evening) it cranks but does not start. Nothing different with the lights in the dash. Does the computer control spark on this? Where would I look for this as it seemed to have fixed itself, and now the problem came back.
 

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I also rarely had the problem with cranking without starting. i knew about the main relay and so i looked at it.
i found some cold solder joints, if that is the correct term.
Of course I re-soldered them and so far I have no more problems. I think, that's the first thing you can do easily.

Greetings
Ralph
 

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Possible reasons:

Main relay
igniter
engine grounds
injectors
timing belt
fuel pump/filter
air filter
Cam/crank position sensor
Ignition switch

With all that, you really should have somebody who knows how to properly diagnose a "crank but no start" problem, but I'll try to guide you through it.

Step 1. Visually inspect all battery, ground, and vacuum lines all around the engine compartment. Pay special attention to the ground on the thermostat housing (under the throttle body), the ground under the passenger side fuel rail cover, the battery connections, and visually check all the fuses in the fuse box under the hood and in the driver side kick panel. Pull the air filter and make sure it isn't clogged. Also, make sure the check engine light appears on the dash as soon as you turn the ignition key to the on position.

Step 2. Pop the two small rubber caps of the front of the upper timing belt covers (or remove the upper timing belt covers completely) and use a long 19mm socket and a ratchet to manually turn the crankshaft pulley. Are the cam gears moving? Yes (go to step 2) No (replace timing belt and pray you didn't bend the valves)

Step 3. You need an in-line spark tester ($15-20 from Matco, or a good parts store), Remove a coil pack, hook one end to the bottom of the coil pack, and feed the other end down to the spark plug (make sure you have everything connected good). Crank the engine over with the key and watch for the light to illuminate. If you don't have spark coming from the coil packs, you should test (in order) the main relay, the igniter, the ignition switch, and the cam/crank position sensor (see below for testing procedures). If you do have spark, remove the spark plugs and see if they are covered in gas or oil and replace them if necessary. If the spark plugs are covered in oil, you should replace the valve cover gaskets and o-rings.

Main relay testing procedure:


Main Relay schematics


Igniter testing procedure
See online service manual: Acura Legend Online Service Manual (Page: 1047)

Cam/crank sensor testing procedure (also known as CKY/CYP sensor)



Ignition switch testing procedure
See online service manual: Acura Legend Online Service Manual (Page: 1019)

Step 4. You need an in-line fuel pressure tester ($100-200 depending on the brand and type of fittings you need). You'll need to make sure the fittings that come with the kit will work with Honda's banjo style fuel fittings. You can test it directly off the top of the fuel filter.

Here's the service procedure from Alldata:


Here's the picture


Step 5. If you have fuel and spark, it's time to test the fuel injectors. Here's the testing procedure from Alldata.



Step 6. You missed something, start over again.
Possible reasons:

Main relay
igniter
engine grounds
injectors
timing belt
fuel pump/filter
air filter
Cam/crank position sensor
Ignition switch

With all that, you really should have somebody who knows how to properly diagnose a "crank but no start" problem, but I'll try to guide you through it.

Step 1. Visually inspect all battery, ground, and vacuum lines all around the engine compartment. Pay special attention to the ground on the thermostat housing (under the throttle body), the ground under the passenger side fuel rail cover, the battery connections, and visually check all the fuses in the fuse box under the hood and in the driver side kick panel. Pull the air filter and make sure it isn't clogged. Also, make sure the check engine light appears on the dash as soon as you turn the ignition key to the on position.

Step 2. Pop the two small rubber caps of the front of the upper timing belt covers (or remove the upper timing belt covers completely) and use a long 19mm socket and a ratchet to manually turn the crankshaft pulley. Are the cam gears moving? Yes (go to step 2) No (replace timing belt and pray you didn't bend the valves)

Step 3. You need an in-line spark tester ($15-20 from Matco, or a good parts store), Remove a coil pack, hook one end to the bottom of the coil pack, and feed the other end down to the spark plug (make sure you have everything connected good). Crank the engine over with the key and watch for the light to illuminate. If you don't have spark coming from the coil packs, you should test (in order) the main relay, the igniter, the ignition switch, and the cam/crank position sensor (see below for testing procedures). If you do have spark, remove the spark plugs and see if they are covered in gas or oil and replace them if necessary. If the spark plugs are covered in oil, you should replace the valve cover gaskets and o-rings.

Main relay testing procedure:


Main Relay schematics


Igniter testing procedure
See online service manual: Acura Legend Online Service Manual (Page: 1047)

Cam/crank sensor testing procedure (also known as CKY/CYP sensor)



Ignition switch testing procedure
See online service manual: Acura Legend Online Service Manual (Page: 1019)

Step 4. You need an in-line fuel pressure tester ($100-200 depending on the brand and type of fittings you need). You'll need to make sure the fittings that come with the kit will work with Honda's banjo style fuel fittings. You can test it directly off the top of the fuel filter.

Here's the service procedure from Alldata:


Here's the picture


Step 5. If you have fuel and spark, it's time to test the fuel injectors. Here's the testing procedure from Alldata.



Step 6. You missed something, start over again.
 
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