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For some of you interested to have the fog lights in JDM 1 piece headlight to work as DRL. Now, I'm very glad to provide some of the basic steps by steps instruction how to make it happened. I knew that some of the other members on here have already done it, but I've tried my best to put this mod together and hope that you all can enjoy.
First, I would like to thank a member Quaraxkad for letting me borrow your pic for demonstration purpose only.
1. I truely suggest to disconnect your positive battery terminal for your own safety.
2. If you still have the OEM Bose head unit, please be sure to obtain the security code prior disconnecting the battery terminals.
Parts and some hand tools need to have to complete this task:
1. One new 12VDC normally closed (N.C) contacts relay.
2. Approximately new 10 feet 20 gauge red wire.
3. Approximately new 8 feet 20 gauge black wire.
4. Electrical tape or heat shrink.
5. New splash guard fuse holder with amperage rating up to 30A (recommended using 7.5A fuse).
6. One new 7.5A fuse.
7. New (4) 16-14 gauge-cal. female .250" quick disconnect w/protective sleeves crimp lugs.
8. New (1) 12-15 gauge-cal ring terminals.
9. Twist-on wire connectors.
10.Approximately new or used 10 feet flame retardant wire conduit uses for covering up the new wires.
11.Black tie wraps.
12.Soldering iron if available.
13.Power drill if available.
14.DVM if available.
15.Heat gun if available.
16.Hand tools: wire cutter, crimper and stripper, etc ...
Listed parts would be able to purchase at any local autopart stores.
There were a couple of ways to run just one single red wire from the ignition switch through the engine bay and all the way up to the headlights:
1. Drill a small hole through the fire wall on the driver side. Make sure to add a piece of rubber grommet or electrical tape around that hole edge to prevent from electrical short. And also make sure to use the flame retardant wire conduit to protect the red wire from the engine heat.
2. Or feed it through a black large clump of wires that leads to the inside fuse box. Take the gasket/grommet off, unwrap the electrical tape, and stick your red wire through there. Require to take off the front driver side fender liner.
You can see it in this picture. NOT the grommet the arrow is pointing at, use the one that's above it.
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There were a couple places inside the engine bay that I chose to mount the relay:
1. Near the cruise control unit right next to the black fuse box. (Hella DE fogs relay).
2. Or the upper mounting headlights frame on the driver side. (DRL fogs relay - I picked that white relay at the local junk yard from 91 Corolla - FTW).
In the past experiences, for a clean installation: I'd like to remove the front bumper which made it more convenience to run wires to both fog lights and fed them inside the flame retardant wire conduit then tie wrap it along the lower condenser chassis frame.
1. Strip off approximately 1/4" black wire insulation and twist or solder to each of the fog lights wire then crimp the other ends together to the ring terminal for grounding it to the chassis frame or a negative battery terminal.
2. Strip off approximately 1/4" red wire insulation and twist or solder to each of the fog lights wire then crimp the other end together to the quick disconnect w/protective sleeves crimp lugs then insert it into # 30 relay terminal.
3. Assuming that the supplied +12VDC red wire has been fed through the fire wall, now strip off approximately 1/4" of its insulation and crimp it into the quick disconnect w/protective sleeves lug then insert it into # 87a relay terminal.
4. Strip off approximately .5" black and red wire insulations and tap or solder them to the driver side head light power (HLP) wires and crimp each of the other ends to the quick disconnect w/protective sleeves lugs and insert both of these lugs into the relay solenoid coil # 85 & # 86 terminals.
Sorry for a paint brush drawing pic, I'm not really good at drawing but I hope that it's still readable and understandable.
5. The next thing need to do is to locate the ignition switch (ig.sw.) wiring harness and slice or solder the remaining red wire end which has been fed through the fire wall into 1 of the hot wire on the ignition switch wiring harness.
6. It would be much easier to work around the ignition switch (ig.sw.) wiring harness by just removing the lower driver side dash panel.
7. The solid yellow wire in the ignition switch wiring harness is the only one that need to be tapped, sliced or soldered the remaining red wire end to it. Wait, don't forget to add the fuse holder by twisting or soldering its wires in between these 2 connections.
8. Now grounds both black wires ring terminal lug into the chassis frame (must locate a very good ground spot) or nut it into the negative battery terminal if possible.
9. Finally, reconnect the positive battery terminal and insert a 7.5A fuse into the fuse holder then turn the ignition key on to level II position to test the fog lights functionality. Both of them will be on for sure then switch the parking lights on, both fog lights will still be on untill switch the head lights on then both fog lights will be shut off immediately due to 12VDC feed from the head lights power to energize the solenoid coil (#85 & #86) to open up the normally closed contacts (#30 & #87a) relay terminals.
This is the end of steps by steps instruction how to make the fog lights in JDM 1 piece head lights to work as DRL (Daylight running light).
Thank you,
PIAA H3 Yellow Ion behinds the amber difuser = double amber light outputs.
Disclaimer:
I will not hold any responsibilities for any shortages or damages it may cause if you decided to leave the battery terminal connected live while performing this mod.
In addition: Since the USDM head lights don't have the fog lights option just like the JDM ones, instead they have the high beams in place of the JDM fogs so this is not a highly recommended modification to the USDM head lights version to have the DRL due to the high beam lense's configuration because:
1. Will definitely blind the oncoming traffics with high beams on all the times during the day unless switching the head lights on to kill the high beams off.
2. Will permanently loose the high beams functionality when the head lights are on.
Comments and questions are welcome.
First, I would like to thank a member Quaraxkad for letting me borrow your pic for demonstration purpose only.
1. I truely suggest to disconnect your positive battery terminal for your own safety.
2. If you still have the OEM Bose head unit, please be sure to obtain the security code prior disconnecting the battery terminals.
Parts and some hand tools need to have to complete this task:
1. One new 12VDC normally closed (N.C) contacts relay.
2. Approximately new 10 feet 20 gauge red wire.
3. Approximately new 8 feet 20 gauge black wire.
4. Electrical tape or heat shrink.
5. New splash guard fuse holder with amperage rating up to 30A (recommended using 7.5A fuse).
6. One new 7.5A fuse.
7. New (4) 16-14 gauge-cal. female .250" quick disconnect w/protective sleeves crimp lugs.
8. New (1) 12-15 gauge-cal ring terminals.
9. Twist-on wire connectors.
10.Approximately new or used 10 feet flame retardant wire conduit uses for covering up the new wires.
11.Black tie wraps.
12.Soldering iron if available.
13.Power drill if available.
14.DVM if available.
15.Heat gun if available.
16.Hand tools: wire cutter, crimper and stripper, etc ...
Listed parts would be able to purchase at any local autopart stores.
There were a couple of ways to run just one single red wire from the ignition switch through the engine bay and all the way up to the headlights:
1. Drill a small hole through the fire wall on the driver side. Make sure to add a piece of rubber grommet or electrical tape around that hole edge to prevent from electrical short. And also make sure to use the flame retardant wire conduit to protect the red wire from the engine heat.
2. Or feed it through a black large clump of wires that leads to the inside fuse box. Take the gasket/grommet off, unwrap the electrical tape, and stick your red wire through there. Require to take off the front driver side fender liner.
You can see it in this picture. NOT the grommet the arrow is pointing at, use the one that's above it.
There were a couple places inside the engine bay that I chose to mount the relay:
1. Near the cruise control unit right next to the black fuse box. (Hella DE fogs relay).
2. Or the upper mounting headlights frame on the driver side. (DRL fogs relay - I picked that white relay at the local junk yard from 91 Corolla - FTW).
In the past experiences, for a clean installation: I'd like to remove the front bumper which made it more convenience to run wires to both fog lights and fed them inside the flame retardant wire conduit then tie wrap it along the lower condenser chassis frame.
1. Strip off approximately 1/4" black wire insulation and twist or solder to each of the fog lights wire then crimp the other ends together to the ring terminal for grounding it to the chassis frame or a negative battery terminal.
2. Strip off approximately 1/4" red wire insulation and twist or solder to each of the fog lights wire then crimp the other end together to the quick disconnect w/protective sleeves crimp lugs then insert it into # 30 relay terminal.
3. Assuming that the supplied +12VDC red wire has been fed through the fire wall, now strip off approximately 1/4" of its insulation and crimp it into the quick disconnect w/protective sleeves lug then insert it into # 87a relay terminal.
4. Strip off approximately .5" black and red wire insulations and tap or solder them to the driver side head light power (HLP) wires and crimp each of the other ends to the quick disconnect w/protective sleeves lugs and insert both of these lugs into the relay solenoid coil # 85 & # 86 terminals.
Sorry for a paint brush drawing pic, I'm not really good at drawing but I hope that it's still readable and understandable.
5. The next thing need to do is to locate the ignition switch (ig.sw.) wiring harness and slice or solder the remaining red wire end which has been fed through the fire wall into 1 of the hot wire on the ignition switch wiring harness.
6. It would be much easier to work around the ignition switch (ig.sw.) wiring harness by just removing the lower driver side dash panel.
7. The solid yellow wire in the ignition switch wiring harness is the only one that need to be tapped, sliced or soldered the remaining red wire end to it. Wait, don't forget to add the fuse holder by twisting or soldering its wires in between these 2 connections.
8. Now grounds both black wires ring terminal lug into the chassis frame (must locate a very good ground spot) or nut it into the negative battery terminal if possible.
9. Finally, reconnect the positive battery terminal and insert a 7.5A fuse into the fuse holder then turn the ignition key on to level II position to test the fog lights functionality. Both of them will be on for sure then switch the parking lights on, both fog lights will still be on untill switch the head lights on then both fog lights will be shut off immediately due to 12VDC feed from the head lights power to energize the solenoid coil (#85 & #86) to open up the normally closed contacts (#30 & #87a) relay terminals.
This is the end of steps by steps instruction how to make the fog lights in JDM 1 piece head lights to work as DRL (Daylight running light).
Thank you,
PIAA H3 Yellow Ion behinds the amber difuser = double amber light outputs.
Disclaimer:
I will not hold any responsibilities for any shortages or damages it may cause if you decided to leave the battery terminal connected live while performing this mod.
In addition: Since the USDM head lights don't have the fog lights option just like the JDM ones, instead they have the high beams in place of the JDM fogs so this is not a highly recommended modification to the USDM head lights version to have the DRL due to the high beam lense's configuration because:
1. Will definitely blind the oncoming traffics with high beams on all the times during the day unless switching the head lights on to kill the high beams off.
2. Will permanently loose the high beams functionality when the head lights are on.
Comments and questions are welcome.
