[B+O]

Alright the 3 of you have some nice background on the C32A1 engine. especially Christian doing the Type II swap and all himself.


here's my dilema. the ECU is spitting Ignition Output Signal codes at me and i checked all the plugs dealing with the ignition and they seem to be okay is there some thingi overlooked when quintuple checking the hook ups please let me know this is the last code the comp is seeing.

 

[502 MotorSports]

can you walk us through what you have done?
A high level step by step would be a start...last thing I heard was it was not going over 4k on the other post. What have you done since then?

 

[B+O]

well basically it went from fully to gether running nice to torn apart then back to gether but not running nice.

a high level would be:
when putting everything back together my friend and i cleaned the combustion chambers and piston heads of carbon, after replacing the heads and bolting the back to the engine. we then proceeded to start putting the intake manifold back on. this was a little bit of a task seeing as how i had to direct the intake manifold to sit right and get the EGR pipe back around some hoses, nothing was amiss in this. after waiting a couple of days for the air suction valve gasket to be delivered to Radley Acura i and my friend pu this peices back together, Replacing the Valve covers, the crrect hoses to all correct places (using the magnificant vacum diagram honda gives on the under side of the hood) after installing the major parts, we then flipped the wiring harness back on to the Engine (had been moved out of the way for time being), replacd the misnumbered coils back into original places(321 341), keep in mind car ran great prior to my works, after replaing those i then pluged all plugs into original posistion and fired up. ran amazingly rough and thick headed for a couple of seconds while smoke bellowed out fromt he pipe. next day ran the car for a couple of mins then went for test drive. smoke disappeared then car started misfiring. after misfire mishap tried timing it seeing as the problem seemed consistent with timing mal adjustment (today). attempt unsuccesful as car would not stay running long enough to test and time. i checked computer codes to find out that Igntion Out Signal has caused a code...

which brings you up to today which as you know that the car is not running.

please help.


thanks

 

[veloci]

from my experience in rebuilding engines, it sounds like your firing order is messed up. you might have placed or move your cam shafts in a way where the firing timing does not match the opening and closing of valves. think back when you had the heads off, you must have not marked where everything was and when you put it back together something was off. stop driving the car immediately and get someone with Acura experience to look at what you did to the engine. if this is the case and you keep on trying to turn your engine it might cost you a fortune for a new engine. just my 2 cents.

 

[Dv8]

yea just like the post above it seems like you may of not put on the timming belt correctly. Even one tooth off the car will run very poor as you described. get you haynes manual and read about the timming belt procedure.

Crank the cranckshaft pulley to TDC (TDC markings are on the pulley)then look in the little rubber groments on the plastic surounding the cam sprokets with a flash light. when pulley is lined up properly, both sides of the cam sprokets will have a yellow or red color marking visable through the window. if one is slightly off, thats your problem.

i remember changing the timming belt it was a pain, lining up all the TDC markings because the left sprocket wanted to jump at the correct TDC point, and the right sproket was already causing tension on the belt making it tight. its definetly a two man job at that point.



~Hybrid

 

[Dave C ver2.0]

Code 15 right? Do an ECU reset and check for code 15 again.

Check the igniter unit 8 pin connector for continuity from pins C and F to body ground. If none you got a bad wire. Connector is like this:

Lock Tab
ABCD
EFGH

All other continuity checks of the system require the test harness to check continuity between the ECU and igniter unit. If all continuity is good then it's either a bad igniter or ECU.

Get a Helms manual.

 

[B+O]

i Feel like a complete a55. the right cylinder bank was one notch off. one bloody notch off. argh. well its back to normal, really this time, just gotta check what code its showing me now and i will be done. reset the computer and all will be str8.


thanks for all the help...REALLY i appreciate it.

i cant beleive it, i checked sevral times and it was on, dead on. but it somehow made its way past my spot check. runs great again, gotta find out what code its giving me.


yeah dave it was code 15, i know helms is being order in 2 days.


Dv8 you're talkin Left from out side the car? Oh yes, that one is such a littl biyaitch to get right, matter of fact its the one that was a tooth off to the right. i had to loosen the tensioner at the bottom to get it right.


THANKS EVERYBODY WHO HELPED ME IN THIS MATTER.

MUCH LOVE

one...

 

[Dv8]

Ha Ha

I knew it.

Out-smarted the old man.



~Hybrid

 

[Roger]

whats up fellows i was searching around and i found this thread , im getting a code 15 rightr now (Ignition Output Signal ) after a remote car starter install i have a very rough idle and rough acceleration , the installers could not figure it out for the life of them, what do u guys think? i havent done the continuity test yet but it would have to be somthing that was disrupted under drivers dash. I really need help it feels like some driving around with only 5 plugs firing.