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ECU Codes and what they mean...G1 & G2

148K views 89 replies 57 participants last post by  linc85slim  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Some useful info:

Getting that little Check Engine lights on your dash may seem a little discomforting. In reality it is really a miracle of engineering and computer technology. Instead of randomly pocking in vast amounts of wires, sensors, and mechanisms in such complex car as a Legend, this little light tells you that your computer knows exactly what is wrong with the car (most of the time).

That means the exact sensor or gate has been pin-pointed as being either partially disconnected or simply out of acceptable range.

Location of ECU on 1986-1990 Legends

The control unit is located under the passenger seat on sedans and under the passenger foot well carpet on the coupes.
The engine CPU is the form of an aluminum box with a little plexiglass window. All you have to observe is a little red LED.

Location of ECU on 1991-1995 Legends

On the 1991-1995 Acura/Honda Legends, you have to jump a service connector located on the passenger side right under the dashboard near the door. The connector has two pin inputs. Connecting them with something like a paper clip will force the check engine light on the dashboard to display the codes.

Extracting Codes

With the car either running or the key in the ON position, perform the necessary steps above and observe the blinking of the light. The light will blink displaying all the codes in sequence and then repeating them.

Reading Codes

The code numbers are read by counting the number of blinks between longer pauses. On 1986-1990 Legends, the code number is indicacted by a series of rapid LED blinks between longer pauses.

On 1991-1995 cars, codes 1-9 are indicated by a series of short flashes; two digit codes use a number of long flashes for the first digit followed by the number of short flashes for the second digit. So a code 43 will be represented by 4 long and 3 short flashes.

The position of codes in a sequence can be helpful in doing diagnostics. A display showing 1-1-1-pause-9-9-9 indicates two problems occurring at different times. A sequence showing 1-9-1-9-1-9 indicates two problems occurring at the same time.

Resetting ECU

Sometimes it may be useful to reset the ECU memory. Although that maybe done by removing the battery for around 20 minutes or so, this will also kill your clock and radio presets. A more elegant way is to:

on 86-90 Legends remove the alternator fuse for 20 seconds.
on 91-95 Legends remove the ACG fuse in the interior fuse panel for 20 seconds. (note that this will also clear the seat memory)

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Below are trouble codes for 86-95 Acura/Honda Legends:

1986-1990 Legend (G1)
Code # Explanation
1 Front Oxygen Sensor
2 Rear Oxygen Sensor
3 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
5 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
4 Crank Angle Sensor
6 Coolant Temperature Sensor
7 Throttle Angle Sensor
8 Top-Dead-Center Position Sensor
9 Number 1 Cylinder Piston Position
10 Intake Temperature Sensor
12 E.G.R. System
13 Atmospheric Pressure Sensor
14 Electronic Idle Control Module
15 Ignition Output Signal
17 Vehicle Speed Sensor
18 Ignition Timing Adjustment

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1991-1995 Legend (G2) (Click here for transmission trouble codes)

Code # Explanation
1 Left Oxygen Sensor
2 Right Oxygen Sensor
3 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
5 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
4 Crank Angle Sensor
6 Coolant Temperature Sensor
7 Throttle Angle Sensor
9 Number 1 Cylinder Position (No. 1 Sensor)
10 Intake Temperature Sensor
12 E.G.R. Sensor
13 Atmospheric Pressure Sensor
14 Electronic Idle Control Module
15 Ignition Output Signal
16 Fuel Injector
17 Vehicle Speed Sensor
18 Ignition Timing Adjustment
23 Left Knock Sensor
41 Left Oxygen Sensor Heater
42 Right Oxygen Sensor Heater
43 Left Fuel Supply System
44 Right Fuel Supply System
45 Left Fuel Metering
46 Right Fuel Metering
53 Right Knock Sensor
54 Crank Angle 2 Sensor
59 Number 1 Cylinder Position (No. 2 Sensor)
 
#6 ·
Thai.95LCoupe said:
Are these codes need for when you get the Stage II chip?? Or Just if you senn the check engine light flashing..
no..these are f you get a check engine light and you retrieve the codes as stated above....G2 is set up differently from G1
 
#16 ·
so when u goignt o acura diler and u want to do inspection if its something wrong with your car that what thay do is looking on this lights ? that how thay do that ?

ThanX
 
#17 ·
Acura have machines which display the same information in numeric form. Which is then easily translated on a chart. Having this information available to us is useless if you are going to an acura dealership because most charge $75 for a diagnostic (required because they never trust the user, and shouldn't) and then there are labor and parts costs to fix the problem.

If we know exactly what the problem is then we should take advantage of that knowledge and head to the nearest junkyard or Autozone for a replacement when appropriate. Also, there's nothing wrong with getting your local mech to do non engine invasive work I think. I had my timing belt changed right in front of me for 2/3rds the cost Acura would charge for labor alone.
 
#18 ·
New Code

Add code 36 to the list, it applies to GS models, possibly TCS on the Coupe models as well:

Code 36 - TCFC Signal (Traction Control Fuel Cut-Off)

"Hello Hector, The code you are getting is specific to the GS models. The code is for the traction control fuel cut-off. I recommend clearing the code and driving it some more to see if it comes on again. If it does, let me know and I can get you a copy of the test procedure"
 
#20 ·
Trixiem I read u

Hey Trixiem

I had the same problem on my 93 LS coupe.

The ACG fuse is in the fuse box inside the car not under the hood

The fuse box is located inside the car located underneath the steering column on the drivers side

I know there is another way to reset the ECU without disconnecting the battery.

It involves pulling on of the fuses in the fuse box located under the hood.

Would someone care to comment ?
 
#23 ·
PGM-FI light flashes on then went off...

My PGM-FI light came on the other day for about twenty minutes and then went off. When I started the car and began driving it lit up again after about 10 minutes or so of driving. I came home stopped the engine and then drove it again about 1 hour later. It hasn't come back on since and that was about two days ago. Should I be concerned or was this some weird electrical fluke? I am new to Acuras and cars in general so please if you answer please be as specific as possible. I appreciate any help. Thanks.

:p
 
#25 ·
Need help on high engine temperature..

Hello all. I am new to this forum but I've been driving a '91 Legend L Cpe for almost five years without any problems. However over a year the engine temperature indicator has been acting either weird or accurately like it would go up to half way at idling or low speed drive, then it came back to normal mark (2nd bottom one). Another thing when the high engine temperature was high was that the hot air was not coming out when I turned the fan on and adjusted the temperature selection to warm or hot during the cold season. Then I also noticed during the first few minutes after starting it up, the engine would rev up and down quickly (1k rpm- 2.5k rpm). After driving it for a few miles it stopped revving up and down at idle speed.

But for the last few months it has seemed to get worse as it revved up and down for a longer period of time after starting. The engine temperature has gone way up to the red mark almost 8 out of 10 times even when driving it at freeway speed, then if I turned on the fan and selected warm or hot air the scary engine temperature indicator would drop quickly to its normal operating mark and the hot air would come out of the vents. But it would do this either at the moment I turned on (or off) the fan and selected the hot air or after several minutes.

No engine check light ever came on. I stopped and checked the two electric fans when the engine temp. indicator was more than halfway mark and they did not run. The engine did feel a little hotter than usual but I am not sure it was going to overheat later. The radiator coolant is full and clean withou any leak. Everything else seems to be in working conditions but what has caused the engine temperature indicator to go high and back to normal after anywhere from first few to 10 minutes after starting up and driving.

I read the engine light codes thread that has a code 6 for engine coolant temperature sensor. I also searched for all temperature-related sensor parts (or thermostat) and found out so far there are two of them:

1) Water temp. sender
2) Thermostat (don't know for what use)

Would it be possible there is a faulty temperature-related sensor?

Any help will be greatly appreciated and sorry for the lengthly post.