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Discussion Starter #1
I've searched and searched....and I've had mechanics look my car over..

my extremely clean and well maintained 95 legend with 126k on the odo vibrates and misses at idle. Here's what we checked:

1) tranny and motor mounts- good
2) new NGK platinum plus plugs- check
3) coils- check good
4) injectors- check good
5) fuel filter (replaced 12/05 according to notes)
6) I run premium gas
7) oil is mobil 1 plus castrol high mileage (blended)
8) timing belt replaced at 124k (according to records)

I'm not leaking anything


at this point, I'm going to chaulk it up to the lack of a harmonic balancer unless I hear otherwise....the mechanic seems to think that when whomever replaced the timing belt, they didn't balance it properly? is that even possible?


just looking for ideas here...

thanks
 

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Did it just start or has it been doing it for a while? Is the problem only at idle or do you feel other symptoms under throttle load (lack of power, hesitation, vibrations etc)? Your timing might be off did you check it? It might be the fuel pump itself and not the filter (tiny bubbles in the fuel line due to lack of constant pressure from the pump) and it might also be the FPR. I'm assuming you have a healthy cooling system. Any chance you could post a video clip?
 

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its been doing it since I got it which was 2 weeks ago.....mechanic called before said timing is spot on.....I flushed coolant system at jiffy lube last week...I told him to burp it, because it might have air in the line...

and I get a vibration taking off from a stop too...
 

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theres a 75% chance its the timing belt.but tell u what just do what i do take it to the dealer :giggle: :giggle: :giggle: and just pay the price but try to tell them what u want to fix dont let them try to charge u for a diagnsis.:yes:
 

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theres a 75% chance its the timing belt.but tell u what just do what i do take it to the dealer :giggle: :giggle: :giggle: and just pay the price but try to tell them what u want to fix dont let them try to charge u for a diagnsis.:yes:
the timing belt was done at 124k....so why would it be that?
 

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Yea, the air in the coolant is usually more of an erratic idle but your mention the motor missing/vibrating which makes me think something is amiss in the combustion cycle. My next suggestion would be to examine/test the fuel pump and FPR. When my Saab's pump was on it's way out at idle it would vibrate gently and every few cycles of the motor it 'hesitate' and the idle would drop close to 200-300 just for a second and blip back up. How's your gas mileage? Oh and one more random thought is to make sure yur knocj sensors are working properly, but normally any failure of these would throw a code.
 

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its been doing it since I got it which was 2 weeks ago.....mechanic called before said timing is spot on.....I flushed coolant system at jiffy lube last week...I told him to burp it, because it might have air in the line...

and I get a vibration taking off from a stop too...
Well, I was going to say since the timing belt was replaced 2k ago could be that the cams are off by a tooth, it'll run but kinda crappy(that's how my car was when I first bought it, until I fixed the timing). I would start off by checking the markings on the cams anyways because not all mechanics will do this correct on our cars unless they had previous experience. Next I would do a pressure check on the fuel filter, prob would replace it because it's like three years old by what you state and it's only like $22 oem. Check the fuel pressure regulator also.
 

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the timing belt was done at 124k....so why would it be that?
Is your mechanic reliable/trustworthy/skilled? No offense but just asking. It's not so much the belt itself, but that the timing might be set incorrectly, has he tried manipulating the timing at all?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Is your mechanic reliable/trustworthy/skilled? No offense but just asking. It's not so much the belt itself, but that the timing might be set incorrectly, has he tried manipulating the timing at all?
I didn't do the belt..it was done before me........and my mechanic told me the timing is SPOT on....

I have a fuel filter to replace with but I cant get the one on there off (bolts are frozen)...
 

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Is your mechanic reliable/trustworthy/skilled? No offense but just asking. It's not so much the belt itself, but that the timing might be set incorrectly, has he tried manipulating the timing at all?
That's why I told him to check for the timming gear marks because the previous owner of my car had his "mech" change the TB and all drive belts, and as I stated it was off by a tooth. He ended up advancing timing so it wouldn't be easily detected(forgot how exactly, it's been a while back), but I fixed it the right way. The easiest way to check is to just remove the gear covers, I could do it through the peek holes, but it's a pita, best just to be 100% sure.
 

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I didn't do the belt..it was done before me........and my mechanic told me the timing is SPOT on....

I have a fuel filter to replace with but I cant get the one on there off (bolts are frozen)...
Try some pb blaster and tap it a little with a hammer, perferrably plastic maybe rubber. You might be able to use a metal hammer but put a rag over the area you will tap, you don't want sparks around the fuel.
 

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That's why I told him to check for the timming gear marks because the previous owner of my car had his "mech" change the TB and all drive belts, and as I stated it was off by a tooth. He ended up advancing timing so it wouldn't be easily detected(forgot how exactly, it's been a while back), but I fixed it the right way. The easiest way to check is to just remove the gear covers, I could do it through the peek holes, but it's a pita, best just to be 100% sure.
:werd: this is what I was thinking. OP tell your mech to check the cam teeth very carefully. Assuming that everything checks out (as the mech seems to think timing is spot on, turn your attention to the fuel system (test the pump, filter and FPR).

Try some pb blaster and tap it a little with a hammer, perferrably plastic maybe rubber. You might be able to use a metal hammer but put a rag over the area you will tap, you don't want sparks around the fuel.
Be VERY careful with steel hammers around fuel. I would highly recommend the rubber hammer or if you need 'denser' impact strength go with a brass hammer (no spark). Of course if your mech is doing all this then he ought to know, or at least have decent insurance for his shop and the cars in it! :giggle:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
hmmmm I'm thinkin I'm gonna bring it to another mech..this guy is mainly a tire shop who does other services but I'm thinking this is beyond him....


I don't know of a mech who knows these legends well around my area....
 

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What's your general area? Someone on here might have a recommendation. Speaking of which I wonder if we can start a 'recommended mechanic' thread (wonder which forum it would fit in)?? People can list where they have had good experiences with their Legends and have found knowledgeable/honest/reliable mechanics and body/wheel places probably have it listed by state and major metropolitan areas (NY, LA, Chicago, DC etc). Sorry for the tangent OP, but your idea of taking it to a more engine oriented shop is what I would do next too.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm in NY, willing to travel for competent work, but not too far lol...

I started a thread about this last week (looking for good labor locally) and no one chimed in:confused:
 

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No NY members with a mechanic recommendation for Legend mechanics???
 

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I'm in NY, willing to travel for competent work, but not too far lol...

I started a thread about this last week (looking for good labor locally) and no one chimed in:confused:
Try Pm-ing harlemlegend(sorry if nto correct). I think he's had some pretty good work done from some posts that I remember, engine swaps and things of that sort.
 
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