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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1991 L sedan Legend and i noticed that when i am taking off from a stop the transition from first to second is hard. So, i check all the messages i could in this board and i have decided to change the transmission fluid and rear mount. Well, since i could not wait to do that this weekend, tonight i went and started the car. i left it in Park and steeped on the gas. well, around 1100 to 1300 rpm's the engines vibrates and i can feel the vibration inside the car by the arm rest. after 1200 rpm's it is really smooth. Guys, is this a sympton of the rear tranny mount gone bad or something more serious? i think is the tranny mount, but i need you guys' wisdom here.

thank you. :cool:
 

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engine vibration

yup - mine is a 92LS.
I had some hard shifting going on, and other wierdness.
I was convinced my tranny mount was bad.
I took it in to several shops (full of idiots) and they said they said my mount was fine but I had an engine problem (exactly as you describe vibration in a narrow rpm band around 1200-1400rpm. After reading the boards I did the following DIY with the following results:

3x - 4x tranny flush:
As described in several posts. One tiny little shread of metal (about the diameter of a hair) came out in the initial flush. The old fluid was turning but not completely toasted. Result - considerably smoother shifting but not complete resolution of problems.

Tranny mount:
I had TWO different shops check it THREE separate times, all said it was fine. ALL WERE FULL OF BULL****. Face it - if you have a 91 there's a >90% your mount is shot. I ordered mine from Augusta, got lucky with the exhaust nuts (my car spent most of its life in the sunshine so not too rusty.) and did this myself. My old mount was barely hanging my a thread of polyurethane/rubberResult: fixed a lot of clunking and loosenes clearly attributalbe to the tranny sliding around.

Vibration:
Both of the above were needed and worthwhile fixes, But alas - neither of these fixes addressed the 1200rpm vibration problem.
When I posted on this previously, there was only one reply from someone else who was said to have spent mega-$$S only to come up empty and say it was an inherent "design flaw". I particularly notice it on mine since I have a little heat shield rattle, and it practically resonates right at 1250rpm. One mechanic suggested that the large torque required to remove the damper pulley during a timing belt changeover often damges the rubber in this damper - Mine (at 109K) has indeed had it's t-belt changed over, but I can see no visible damage to this damper. I've resigned myself to living with this vibration as I can currently find no cause and it doesn't seem to cause any other problems.

While my tranny is much much better, I am still in search of a diagnosis for a very very slight hesitation on unloading of power (i.e. I let up on the gas and it kinda feels like there is a two-step hicup in the tranny as the thing converts to coasting - I am thinking maybe a sticky lockup converter solenoid, or some other suspension/CV problem (CV boots all look fine, and one side was replaced years ago).

Anyway - bottom line - do the tranny mount - get your tranny flushed every year or so you need those; and I'm sorry to say you'll
probably still have that 1200rpm vibration.

I too eagerly await other more informative replies!!
 

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Mine has the same vibration between 1250-1450 RPM. From what I understand this is a very comon Legend problem. I too have been told that it is a design flaw in the engine. If anyone ever finds a fix post it. Many will benifit. I say, just learn to live with it!
Later!
Lee
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thank you guys for all the feedback. I am going to do the tranny flush this weekend and the rear tranny mount too. there is a mechanic that will charge me $60.00 to do the flush and the mount. i think it is a hell of a deal. i have worked in all my cars but i do not think i have all the right tools to do the mount, so iwill let the mechanic do it, under my supervision of course. thank you again guys.:cool:
 

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wanna know too ? same problem here <~~~
 

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Roger said:
hey hauch how much was the rear tranny mount????
It cost me $600 at Ann Arbor Acura, although you can probably get it done cheaper somewhere else and get the parts at Acura of Augusta
 

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tranny mount

At first I decided to do the tranny mount DIY.
I went to the dealer and paid $187 for the mount (which is $20 over list thanks to f'ing west coast mark-ups)

Then I chickened out and decided to try a shop
As noted above shops were clueless, so I was back to DIY and after the recommendations here I contacted Acura of Agusta.
These guys are great!!! Tell them you heard it here. I purchased the mount from them for $127 incl shipping. I took the dealer purchased mount back for a refund and saved $60 straight away.

If I were to do it again, I would definitely pop for new exhaust bolts/springs/nuts. I think this is about 2 x $10-12. Like I said I got lucky- mine came off with a lot of muscle - but I had comparatively little rust - and I think most cars will need heat / torch / or other serious torque to get these off and there's a real chance they'll get cobbered up.

As for having a shop do it - I think the shop labor is spec'd at 1.75hrs mostly because of the possibility of knarly exhaust bolts- here that's about $130-150 (non-dealer), plus the parts at list--> that's $300-350+ for sure. $600 at a dealer? ouch! Since this is such a common repair (think TSB/recall...) some dealerships will offer a goodwill discount on this repair - but only if "your car has a life-long history of service here at our dealership - maybe we'll cut you a deal.. blah blah")

At my super slow-poke driveway mechanic pace I did it in 3.5hr - including an oil change and extra time to get both the front and the rear of the car up off the ground to really have room to work. Others here in the forum have done these in <1hr - but dropping the exhaust is really the wildcard, IMO.

Cheers

-Kip Hauch
1992 4dr LS, 109K
Lynnwood WA
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks to all of you guys. i just finished changing my rear tranny mount. what a difference. now the car drives the way i remember a Legend should. i also, changed the fluid. it was old, the same as the engine oil. well, i saod i would let you know and that is what iam doing. again, thank you guys.
 

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veloci said:
Thanks to all of you guys. i just finished changing my rear tranny mount. what a difference. now the car drives the way i remember a Legend should. i also, changed the fluid. it was old, the same as the engine oil. well, i saod i would let you know and that is what iam doing. again, thank you guys.
did u change it yourself?
 

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Re: engine vibration

hauch said:
yup - mine is a 92LS.
I had some hard shifting going on, and other wierdness.
I was convinced my tranny mount was bad.
I took it in to several shops (full of idiots) and they said they said my mount was fine but I had an engine problem (exactly as you describe vibration in a narrow rpm band around 1200-1400rpm. After reading the boards I did the following DIY with the following results:

3x - 4x tranny flush:
As described in several posts. One tiny little shread of metal (about the diameter of a hair) came out in the initial flush. The old fluid was turning but not completely toasted. Result - considerably smoother shifting but not complete resolution of problems.

Tranny mount:
I had TWO different shops check it THREE separate times, all said it was fine. ALL WERE FULL OF BULL****. Face it - if you have a 91 there's a >90% your mount is shot. I ordered mine from Augusta, got lucky with the exhaust nuts (my car spent most of its life in the sunshine so not too rusty.) and did this myself. My old mount was barely hanging my a thread of polyurethane/rubberResult: fixed a lot of clunking and loosenes clearly attributalbe to the tranny sliding around.

Vibration:
Both of the above were needed and worthwhile fixes, But alas - neither of these fixes addressed the 1200rpm vibration problem.
When I posted on this previously, there was only one reply from someone else who was said to have spent mega-$$S only to come up empty and say it was an inherent "design flaw". I particularly notice it on mine since I have a little heat shield rattle, and it practically resonates right at 1250rpm. One mechanic suggested that the large torque required to remove the damper pulley during a timing belt changeover often damges the rubber in this damper - Mine (at 109K) has indeed had it's t-belt changed over, but I can see no visible damage to this damper. I've resigned myself to living with this vibration as I can currently find no cause and it doesn't seem to cause any other problems.

While my tranny is much much better, I am still in search of a diagnosis for a very very slight hesitation on unloading of power (i.e. I let up on the gas and it kinda feels like there is a two-step hicup in the tranny as the thing converts to coasting - I am thinking maybe a sticky lockup converter solenoid, or some other suspension/CV problem (CV boots all look fine, and one side was replaced years ago).

Anyway - bottom line - do the tranny mount - get your tranny flushed every year or so you need those; and I'm sorry to say you'll
probably still have that 1200rpm vibration.

I too eagerly await other more informative replies!!
i have the hicup as you call it also, if you find out anything about that let us know
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Roger, yes, i did. I read as much as i could on this message board. I ran this through my head until i could picture what i had to do. i had a friend help me out, just in case, we got it done in about 1.5 hours. no as fast as some of the other guys, but it got done and it got done right. Now, my next saga is the hood struts. i am not paying $75 per strut, i will somehow find them cheaper, when i do, i will let everyone know. By the way, i still have that vibration at 1200 rpm, i can ive with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Roger, you have to heat them up, no way around that. unless you want to spend 3 to 4 hours trying with out heat, you have to heat them up. Also, air tools. they are a must. i love the way the car drives now.
 

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this probably is a wildcard but I remember when I had my 92 sedan that the dealer technician once told me when I asked a question about general tune-ups at about 60K to be sure to unscrew the air idle screw (big one with paint) and clean out the port with some berrymans or GM carbon cleaner as that port eventually carbons up and causes some weird off idle roughness. The only headache is counting turns and trying to get the setting back as well as the right rpm etc. But there was carbon in it big time and some roughness just off idle went away. Also, the 91-92 had some engines that had weak rings that would carbon up. Many got a ring job for free. That can cause roughness too but one will normally hear a fairly steady loud clicking sound if rings are stuck with carbon. The solution was to run some GM upper head cleaner through a specific vacuum line and let the car sit for a few hours. That stuff is nasty and will make your neighbors enemies due to the huge fog and smell it makes. If the air quality board is around they would probaly write a ticket. I used to do it like on a really rainy and windy night and then get up like at 4am before the world did to drive it for 5 to 10 miles to burn the stench and smoke out. Then I'd change the engine oil. Porsche's used to have the same problem and they would run like one can a week through the engine for 6 to 8 weeks and that would get rid of the carbon. That GM upper cyl cleaner is nasty stuff but it works like nothing else at removing carbon. The 1100- 1250 stumble could be from a carbon build up.

steve
 

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sgkent,

This is an old thread. Read more on engine vibration... It is considered an intrinsic flaw of the G2 Legend engine. Your suggestion might still be good for removing some deposits... It just won't take care of the vibrations. Good luck!
 

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WhiteLegend said:


It cost me $600 at Ann Arbor Acura, although you can probably get it done cheaper somewhere else and get the parts at Acura of Augusta
$600 NO FOCKING WAY! That's insane. The labor sheet I got tells me 1.3 hours, how does 1.3 hours @ $60/hr becomes $600 total? Let's do the math here. $78 Labor + ~$500 for the part ?!??!

Mine was more like $169 for the part and $78 for the labor. Of course, mine wasn't at the dealer and the part came from Acura of Augusta.
 

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asianlegend said:


$600 NO FOCKING WAY! That's insane. The labor sheet I got tells me 1.3 hours, how does 1.3 hours @ $60/hr becomes $600 total? Let's do the math here. $78 Labor + ~$500 for the part ?!??!

Mine was more like $169 for the part and $78 for the labor. Of course, mine wasn't at the dealer and the part came from Acura of Augusta.
Try $97 per hour Acura charges here. The part was $300, and the took those idiots 3 hours. Of course that's was the first time I got it done, I didn't know anything then.
 

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used to have same problem...

I used to have the same problem....somebody told me to run thicker motor oil....so now I'm running mobil 1 15W50.....result!!! Problem went away....

so it doesn't hurt, TRY IT....
 
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