They're generally underrated and a bit overpriced...But if you think it's a good deal then go for it...

 

They're generally underrated and a bit overpriced...But if you think it's a good deal then go for it...

Really? Because for that price of an amp alpine's only puts out 300 watts to 1 channel at 2 ohms vs 250x2 @ 2ohms the rockford fosgate is putting out ( i'm planning on (2) 12' type-r's) so that 250watts rms would be perfect.

 

Those Type R's can take a good amount more then 250...If you can I would get a larger amp...Are you sealed or ported?

 

Planning on sealed...unless i shouldn't? There was a member on here that is running the 501s and (2) Type-r's said it sounded great... Maybe the 801s amp then (would 400 watts for each sub RMS sound better for the type-rs?

 

Don't get hung up too much on power output.

RF is good, I prefer Alpine V12. Maybe not the BEST, but definitely a top contender of a amp. I also prefer the style of Alpine over other amps on the market....looking good weighs in as much as sounding good to me.

FYI, sound, DB's and RMS power are never as clear cut as saying "more power is better".

For example: a 6.5 inch speaker

A single 6.5" speaker may produce 92 dB at 1 watt/meter.

2 6.5's getting 1 watt each will produce 95 dB 1 watt/metter totally. Every additional speaker adds 3 dB at 1 watt.

To actually percieve something being much louder, 6 dB is the threshold at which humans will percieve the volume increase as signifigant.

For 1 speaker, twice as loud is actually measured as a 6 dB increase. To sound twice as loud, or gain 6 dB, amplifier power needs to be increased 10 fold. So, 92 dB @ 1 watt.....98 dB at 10 watts, 104 dB at 100 watts, 110 dB at 1000 watts and so on.

So, you can see, a RF amp making 50 watts RMS more or less than another amp is not a big deal. Look at power availibity, such is it's actual rating at 12 volts, not 14.4....and it's ability to multiply it's power outputs at lower impedances like 2 or 1 ohm. Also, consider if the amp looks good in your car with your current or ideal setup.

Just don't get hung up on watts available at 14.4v into 4 ohms...that is not the entire story.

 

^Whoa had to read that twice but it actually made sense! I'm more neutral to the look of the alpine amps, don't really like them, don't really hate them. For visual i kinda like some of the audiobahn looks.

My biggest factor in my decision is cost/value. If i do infact run (2) 12 type-r's, how many watts rms should i be looking to run to them. (or if its not watts that really matter, what should i look for) what would be a good amp to really get the full potential from these subs.

 

To actually percieve something being much louder, 6 dB is the threshold at which humans will percieve the volume increase as signifigant.

I believe it is 3 dB's to hear it twice as loud...And 10 dB's to be acutally twice as loud...It's logarithmic if I recall correctly...Getting a larger amp I think is a good idea because you may have future upgrades, and you'll have headroom so you don't have to set the gains so high to get the desired volume...

 

I believe it is 3 dB's to hear it twice as loud...And 10 dB's to be acutally twice as loud...It's logarithmic if I recall correctly...Getting a larger amp I think is a good idea because you may have future upgrades, and you'll have headroom so you don't have to set the gains so high to get the desired volume...

It is logarithmic. But, that is exactly what I learned back in the day of toying with car stereo. I am sure my numbers are correct, even if wrong, the point is it takes a considerable jump in power to make perceptable increase in volume. So, talking about amps, the difference between 200 and 250 watts stated power is not a big deal.

88 Legend, the best dollar per watt amps are the ones that can multiply their power output at lower loads. That way, you can run the 2 Type-R voicecoils in parrallel at 2 ohms, and get the most from your amp. I am currently running 2 Type-R 12's in a Obcon bandpass in my Legend with a Soundstream 1000SX amp. All 4 voicecoils are running parrallel at about 1.3 ohms to my bridged amp. It has switched into high current mode because the impedance is lower than 2 ohms. This is about 1000w true RMS....and my car straight out slams like a train. The Type-R's are awesome woofers....they have big motors, lots of flexibilty in hookup, and they can take some serious abuse.

For you, the RF amps may be good. I have not looked at RF since the mid-late 90's, but back then they were very good amps. I remember that the Punch 75 could be tapped for nearly 500w RMS depending on the way it was hooked up. They used non-regulated power supplies which meant they could make power like that. This is how car stereo people compete. They buy a high current amp that is rated at low power levels in 4 ohm, so they can compete in a certain power class. Then, they hook all their stuff up at less than 2 ohms and get monster power. You should look for amps like this. A good amp will double it's power everytime you divide the ohm's by half. That way, you can hook up the Type-R's in a low impedance (ohms) setup and get max power.

 

Ok so i am just going to want to find an amp that can put out some pretty high watts at 2 Ohms or lower correct? When do the new '04 models of stuff come out...is it worth even waiting or finding maybe a closeout on the '03 stuff?

 

hey, im the one w/ da 501S w/ 2 12's type R in sealed
the amp acual rating is 560@ 2 ohms bridged.
rite now i did an experiment yesterday.
i did a parrelle hook up( sub->O==terminal==O<-sub
i shall cont later
got to run out

 

anyways i parralled ma subs and bridged it and now my amp is workin to hard and it goes on heat protection,ima put it back like it used to be.anywho, 501's iz just enough IMO.
any questions?

 

anyways i parralled ma subs and bridged it and now my amp is workin to hard and it goes on heat protection,ima put it back like it used to be.anywho, 501's iz just enough IMO.
any questions?

Usually when you bridge you need a 4 ohm final load...With some amps that can take 1 ohm stereo, you can do 2 ohm bridged...But in most cases stick with 4 ohm mono when bridged...

 

Usually when you bridge you need a 4 ohm final load...With some amps that can take 1 ohm stereo, you can do 2 ohm bridged...But in most cases stick with 4 ohm mono when bridged...

im goin bak to 2ch @4ohms, today after i got bak from ny, my sub came out of da box...lol...DAMN!

 

Why not wire it down to 2ohms? Ohh and i talked to my friend today...looks like i am going to get (2) jl 12w3's instead of the type-r's. He can get me a way good deal because the d2/4/6's are discontinued for the new 12w3v2's. So now i am thinking about running those 2 off an 801s (he's got (2) 10w3's running off an old mtx amp thats atleast 2 years old probably barely hitting 150 watts rms and they still sound awesome!!!!)

 

MOTHER FKING fostgate, BURNT ma amp!!!!

 

MOTHER FKING fostgate, BURNT ma amp!!!!

what do you mean Fosgate burnt your amp?? Did the Fosgate amp fail?

 

nahz, my amp is burnt, my amp is blown, my amp is dead,lol

 

takemorepills, your post was very informative. Would you guys choose one sub with a stronger amp or a 2 channel setup with a less powerful amp? I'm thinking about getting one 10" type R with a 350 watt amp $250, or two DVC 10" type S woofers, and a 110 watts per channel amp $325. I don't want thump (my car attracts enough attention already), I just want clean, full sound throughout the frequency range.

 

Smartjay- so your amp is no more...any details as of why that is (did you change something or did it just happen?)

 

ive had 2 RF amps for a few years now and i have to say they are super loud and never had a problem with them. They are turned way down. I think it depends what line RF you get. but the BD series is great. For bass and my taste there is nothing better for the price

 

Smartjay- so your amp is no more...any details as of why that is (did you change something or did it just happen?)

this wat happend:
i parrelled the subs
drop da resistance to 2 or 1 ohms
bridged it

and also my sub came out of da box, cuz it hit tooo hard. and yes all screws was on.

im not 100% sure tat the reason why my amp blew is either b/c of 2 wire contact wen the sub came out or the bridge part and the amp cant handle

 

takemorepills, your post was very informative. Would you guys choose one sub with a stronger amp or a 2 channel setup with a less powerful amp? I'm thinking about getting one 10" type R with a 350 watt amp $250, or two DVC 10" type S woofers, and a 110 watts per channel amp $325. I don't want thump (my car attracts enough attention already), I just want clean, full sound throughout the frequency range.

That is a good question. I don't have a clear answer for you, but I do have some thoughts....
One Type-R 10" with lots of power may perform just as well as two Type-S 10's with medium power. The winning factor here may be the smaller box size for 1 Type-R.

About "thump"...having lots of ability to play loud is a nice thing to have. You can always turn down the "thump", it's nice to have that kind of power available, not just for rap. Some music has very weak or ill-defined bass that can be helped with the ability to really crank out some low-end power. Sometimes, I like my stuff mellow. So, I turn down the bass. But, it's nice to know the power in my trunk has a similar demeanor as the power under my hood...

 

hey, im the one w/ da 501S w/ 2 12's type R in sealed
the amp acual rating is 560@ 2 ohms bridged.
rite now i did an experiment yesterday.
i did a parrelle hook up( sub->O==terminal==O<-sub
i shall cont later
got to run out

Usually when you bridge you need a 4 ohm final load...With some amps that can take 1 ohm stereo, you can do 2 ohm bridged...But in most cases stick with 4 ohm mono when bridged...

Uh...I hope you realize that your amp doesn't do 560 at 2 ohms bridged...It does it at 4 ohms bridged...Running it below operating impedence is why your stuff blew...You should have listened..

 

ma fualt...

 

it's nice to have that kind of power available

:werd: Couldn't have put it better myself