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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
As I read in one post the G1 forum needed a FAQ. So as I sit here bored in directed study almost done wit my sophomore year in high school I decide to write this FAQ. I have no idea where to start as there are many questions. Here you go. Most of this is from daddymack117 , I just did a lot of copy/past from all around the forum, as I have some time in school. So only som of this is written BY me.

Gas Mileage- Some people worry about there mileage. You must understand you have 6 cylinders under that hood, not four. You should be getting at least 18-23 city and 24-27 highway. Now ways of getting better. Adding gas treatment that cleans valves, injectors, or improve fuel quality do help. But upgrading to say a CAI (cold air intake)or even a high flow filter works great along with an exhaust system(2 ½ seems to work great for our legends).Adding CAI and exhaust increased my mileage to 34 on highway.Other than that regular unleaded gas gives much better mileage compared to the low grade with 10% ethanol in it.

Main Relay- Location for this is under the driver side dash, and is a little black box-OEM part number for main relay- MITSUBA RZ-0063. It has an 8 pin socket with the #6 pin missing. (so the 7 pin on this link some may prefer to get a main relay from a wrecker or salvage yard. Probably cost about $5.00. Symptoms for Bad Main Relay-
1. Car wont start off its own but if jump started, will fire right away.
2. Not clicking when turning key.
3. If you have Ground but no Power.
*note-A main relay usually only fails when the weather is really hot. You might have a hard start every now and then, but not enough to really cause you any concern, but when an igniter or a coil fails, the car won't start at all until it cools down and that will be a major concern.

O2 sensors- O2 sensors calculate how much oxygen is in your engine. They can cause your engine to burn rich, lien, poor, etc. These also cause bad gas mileage. Replacement:

Type of Car Mileage Replacement Interval Recommended
Unheated oxygen sensors on 1976 to early 1990s vehicles-Every 30,000 - 50,000 miles
Heated (1st generation) oxygen sensors on mid-1980s to mid-1990s vehicles Every 60,000 miles
Heated (2nd generation) oxygen sensors on mid-1990s and newer vehicles Every 100,000 miles

Types of O2 sensors-
Unheated Thimble: This was the first oxygen sensor design and Bosch has been producing them since 1976. These sensors either have one wire or two (for purposes of grounding), since they do not require power for a heater element. They use a zirconia ceramic element to generate a voltage in a rich (insufficient oxygen) gas environment. They can take several minutes to reach operating temperatures of 625 degrees Fahrenheit after a cold start, however this varies with application as the location of the sensor determines the rate at which it heats.

Heated Thimble: These sensors were introduced by Bosch in 1982 and function in the same manner as the unheated thimble, however inside the thimble is a special heating element that brings the sensor up to operating temperature in about 30-60 seconds. The additional wires to power the heater- typically a total of 3-4 wires (dependent on grounding scenario) can identify these sensors.

Planar: This sensor was introduced by Bosch in 1997 and also uses the zirconia ceramic sensing technology, but placed in a more compact thin flat shape (hence the name) instead of a thimble or conical shape. This allows the sensor to be smaller and lighter. They also require less electrical power as the heater is integrated into the smaller sensing element. By model year 2004, planar oxygen sensors are expected to account for over 30% of all new oxygen sensor applications and by 2007 for over 50% of new oxygen sensors. These sensors also have only four wires.

Wideband: This is the newest design of oxygen sensor and it offers the increased accuracy needed to meet the latest emissions requirements. Unlike all the other types of oxygen sensors, the wide-band sensor can actually measure the air/fuel ratio from 11:1 (excess fuel condition) all the way to straight air (no fuel)! (The ideal air/fuel ratio is 14.7/1.) This improved measurement allows the engine control system to measure the actual air/fuel ratio and eliminates the switching between lean and rich associated with a traditional type of oxygen sensor. These sensors use a planar zirconia ceramic element, so that they heat up much faster than other types of sensors- reducing cold start emissions. These sensors can be identified with having five or more wires. In addition, these sensors are used with the newly developed gasoline direct injection engines. Direct injection engines can use stratified charges, which produce a very lean mixture in the combustion chamber, and these sensors must be used because of their ability to measure from very lean to very rich accurately.

Titania: These sensors use a different type of oxygen sensing technology and instead of generating a voltage signal that changes with the air/fuel ratio, the sensor's resistance changes. These sensors are used on less than 0.5% of all oxygen sensor equipped vehicles.

Most O2 sensors run for about $40.00. Sadly on our legend we need 2. for both manifolds. Links to some sites , ,

Every 250 miles or weekly

Check engine oil
Check engine coolant level
Check windshield washer fluid
Check brake fluid level
Check tires and tire pressures

Every 3,000 miles or 3 months

Above listed items plus:

Check power steering fluid level
Check automatic and transmission/transaxle fluid level
Change engine oil and filter

Every 7,500 miles or 6 months

All items listed above and:

Inspect/replace wiper blades
Check/Service Battery
Check/Adjust (if necessary) engine drivebelts
Inspect/Replace (if necessary) all underhood hoses
Check cooling system
Rotate Tires
Check front disc brake pads

Every 15,000 miles or 12 months

All items listed above and:

Inspect the brake system
Check clutch pedal height and freeplay
Inspect the seatbelts
Replace the a/c air filter
Adjust valve clearances
Replace the air filter
Inspect the fuel system
Check m/t lubricant
Check differential lubricant level
Inspect suspension and steering components and driveaxle boots
Inspect exhaust system

Every 30,000 miles or 24 months

All above listed items plus:

Replace the spark plugs (conventional, non-platinum)
Check and replace, if necessary, the PCV Valve
Replace the fuel filter
Service the cooling system (drain, flush, fill)
Replace the brake fluid
Change automatic transmission/transaxle fluid
Change manual transmission/transaxle lubricant
Change differential lubricant
Check EGR system ( Exhaust Gas Recirculation)
Check and adjust engine idle speed
Check and adjust engine ignition timing

Replace ABS high pressure hose
Reset Maintenance Required Indicator

Every 60,000 miles or 24 months

All items listed above plus

Replace the spark plugs (PLATINUM TIPPED SPARK PLUGS)

Every 90,000 miles or 72 months

Replace timing belt
Replace water pump
PCV Valve, Cover, Filter

Chassis Codes
KA2 - Refers to 86-87 Sedan
KA3 - Refers to 87-90 Coupe
KA4 - Refers to 88-90 Sedan
KA7 - Refers to 91-95 Sedan
KA8 - Refers to 91-95 Coupe
KA9 - Refers to 96-04 RL
KB1 - Refers to 05-?? RL

1st Generation: 86-90 Sedans/Coupes
2nd Generation: 91-95 Sedans/Coupes (96 JDM Coupe)
3rd Generation: 96-04 Sedans only (Acura RL)
4th Generation: 05-?? Sedans only (Acura RL)

USDM: United States Domestic Market
JDM: Japanese Domestic Market
EDM: European Domestic Market

OEM: Original Equipment Manufacturer (basically used to refer to factory parts)
AEM: Aftermarket Equipment Manufacturer (literally). They make aftermarket stuff. Nothing specifically for the Legend though.

FWD Front Wheel Drive
RWD Rear Wheel Drive
AWD All Wheel Drive

1st Generation: 86-90 Sedans/Coupes
2nd Generation: 91-95 Sedans/Coupes (96 JDM Coupe)
3rd Generation: 96-04 Sedans only (Acura RL)
4th Generation: 05-?? Sedans only (Acura RL)

USDM: United States Domestic Market
JDM: Japanese Domestic Market
EDM: European Domestic Market

OEM: Original Equipment Manufacturer (basically used to refer to factory parts)
AEM: Aftermarket Equipment Manufacturer (literally). They make aftermarket stuff. Nothing specifically for the Legend though.

FWD Front Wheel Drive
RWD Rear Wheel Drive
AWD All Wheel Drive

Blown Head Gasket
- Commonly known as BHG(Overheating 101) This is mainly an overheat and causes the Head Gasket to blow out causing oil in coolant/coolant in oil. There will usually be white smoke coming out of the exhaust on idle or acceleration.

VSS- this is your vehicle speed sensor. If you speedometer is going completely whacky or reads 0 mph , this us your vss. From your dealer it should run you around $150-$300 depending on where you go. Most likely cheaper from salvage yard, wrecker, etc.

Vehicle Identification (VIN)

The following is a breakdown of what your 17-digit Acura Legend Vehicle Idenfication Number (VIN) denotes:

Digit 1-3 - Manufacturer
JH4 = Honda Motor Co. LTD

Digit 4-6 - Body Type
KA4 = 86-90 All
KA7 = 91-95 4 Door Sedan
KA8 = 91-95 2 Door Coupe

Digit 7 - Body Style/Transmission Type
1 = coupe, manual
2 = coupe, automatic
5 = sedan, manual
6 = sedan, automatic

Digit 8 - Option/Trim Package
3 = 86-90 Standard (No Sunroof)
4 = 86-90 Standard (Sunroof)
5 = 86-90 Leather Interior
6 = 86-95 L Trim
7 = 86-95 LS Trim
8 = 93-95 GS Trim
9 = 93-95 SE Trim

Digit 9
Check digit

Digit 10 - Production Year
G = 1986
H = 1987
J = 1988
K = 1989
L = 1990
M = 1991
N = 1992
P = 1993
R = 1994
S = 1995

Digit 11 - Assembly Plant Location
C = Saitama, Japan

Digit 12-17
Individual vehicle serial number

ECU Codes-

Getting that little Check Engine lights on your dash may seem a little discomforting. In reality it is really a miracle of engineering and computer technology. Instead of randomly pocking in vast amounts of wires, sensors, and mechanisms in such complex car as a Legend, this little light tells you that your computer knows exactly what is wrong with the car (most of the time).

That means the exact sensor or gate has been pin-pointed as being either partially disconnected or simply out of acceptable range.

Location of ECU on 1986-1990 Legends

The control unit is located under the passenger seat on sedans and under the passenger foot well carpet on the coupes.
The engine CPU is the form of an aluminum box with a little plexiglass window. All you have to observe is a little red LED.

Extracting Codes

With the car either running or the key in the ON position, perform the necessary steps above and observe the blinking of the light. The light will blink displaying all the codes in sequence and then repeating them.

Reading Codes
The code numbers are read by counting the number of blinks between longer pauses. On 1986-1990 Legends, the code number is indicacted by a series of rapid LED blinks between longer pauses.

The position of codes in a sequence can be helpful in doing diagnostics. A display showing 1-1-1-pause-9-9-9 indicates two problems occurring at different times. A sequence showing 1-9-1-9-1-9 indicates two problems occurring at the same time.

Resetting ECU

Sometimes it may be useful to reset the ECU memory. Although that maybe done by removing the battery for around 20 minutes or so, this will also kill your clock and radio presets. A more elegant way is to:

on 86-90 Legends remove the alternator fuse for 20 seconds.
on 91-95 Legends remove the ACG fuse in the interior fuse panel for 20 seconds. (note that this will also clear the seat memory)

Aftermarket ECU-Chasing after an aftermarket ecu for the g1 is almost impossible. You either need a piggyback systerm from AEM or if you can get ahold of the BAYOU company then you might be in luck.


Below are trouble codes for 86-95 Acura/Honda Legends:

1986-1990 Legend (G1)
Code # Explanation
1 Front Oxygen Sensor
2 Rear Oxygen Sensor
3 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
5 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
4 Crank Angle Sensor
6 Coolant Temperature Sensor
7 Throttle Angle Sensor
8 Top-Dead-Center Position Sensor
9 Number 1 Cylinder Piston Position
10 Intake Temperature Sensor
12 E.G.R. System
13 Atmospheric Pressure Sensor
14 Electronic Idle Control Module
15 Ignition Output Signal
17 Vehicle Speed Sensor
18 Ignition Timing Adjustment

Wheel offset and bolt patter-Wheel offset is 50mm. Bolt pattern is 4x114.3 mm to be exact.most people with aftermarket rims have an offset of +41.

Engine Swaps- In theory, if you have the time (and money), just about any engine swap is possible, just most will require extensive bodywork, engine bay work, pain, and suffering, so again unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket, most swaps with other Honda/Acura engines should not be attempted. On the other hand, there are a few exceptions to what can be swapped and what can't:

USDM C27A1---->JDM C27A1(vice versa)

USDM C27A1---->USDM C27A1

Trim Levels-The G1 Legend was offered in three trim levels. The STD (also known as "standard" or "base") was the entry-level car. Despite that status, it came standard with full power accessories, sunroof, AC, cruise control, tilt steering column, and cassette stereo with equalizer. The L model adds anti-lock brakes (ALB), heated exterior mirrors, a power driver's seat, leather, and leather-wrapped steering wheel,automatic climate control and also a trip computer. The top of the line LS model adds a power passenger's seat, trip computer, automatic climate control,air bags and a Bose stereo system.

Lifter valves-Lots of people wonder why there car "ticks" when it runs in the morning. Oil is needed to run through the lifter and the oil is usually cold in the morning so it has very high viscosity causing ticking, once the oil is heated up it will run through them causing the ticking to go away.To alleviate the noise, pour a half quart of Honda ATF through the crankcase and run engein for about 15 min. Then change oil and filter.A Product such as Engine Restore or Marvel Mystery Oil can be ran through after change.

specs on road-A sedan with the 2.5 will hit 60 in 8.1 seconds with the five-speed manual. The quarter mile time is 16.41 at 85.6 mph. A coupe will do the quarter mile in 16.40 @ 87.5 mph, and has a 0-60 time of 8.12 seconds. This is also with the manual transmission. Automatic transmission cars are about a half a second slower to sixty. (NOTE: those stats are from the Motor Trend articles below. Results will vary based on temperature, road surface, and production variances, among other things.)

Tranny- The transmission is virtually what makes the car move.No tranny=no movement. symptoms of bad automatic tranny, on startup the engine will rev over redline and hit rev limiter. It may be fixed by the 4x flush(flushing tranny 4 times).Other signs of tranny problems would be shifting troubles. To fix this, you may simply clean out the shift solenoids. <----thanks to Full Stealth. Now the manual tranny is pretty simple. Gearbox,master cylinder,slave cylinder,clutch,cable,flywheel,etc. not many way to fix these if broken. Only thing to really do is flush it and hope for the best.
Feel free to add/stomp/tell me whats missing(i know im missing stuff but this took a while LOL)

Acura Legend fact sheet.(stolen from G2 section)
Integra Legend CL RL TL NSX Vigor SLX MDX
(Technical Service Bulletins are listed in parentheses below.)

Brakes: Parking brake does not fully release, 1993-94 Vigor (94-001); ABS Problem Code 1 & leaking solenoid, 1987-90 Legend (89-022), 1990-91 Integra (91-038) & 1991-92 NSX (92-014); Brake squeal, 1986-88 Legend (87-028) & 1986-87 Integra (87-011); ABS pump runs often, 1987-89 Legend (89-029); ABS reservoir overflows, 1987-89 Legend (89-016);.

Electrical/Instruments: Speed sensor failure, 1991-94 Legend (94-018); Unlocking door sets off security alarm, 1991-93 NSX (93-007); Glove box light stays on, 1991-92 Legend (92-026); ABS problem code 1-8, 1991-92 Legend (91-031 & 92-023); Driver's power seat memory loses position, 1989-90 Legend (92-015); Low oil pressure flashes, 1986-90 Legend (90-013); Premature battery failure, 1986-89 Integra (91-003); Fuel temperature gauges erratic, 1988-90 Legend (90-012); Low charge rate, 1986-88 Legend (89-018); Information center displays: Distance to empty -- N/A, 1988-89 Legend (89-010); Inaccurate readout from information center, 1987-88 Legend (87-021); Ignition key/sunroof warning beeper stays on, 1986-87 Legend (86-017).

Engine/Driveability: Knock after cold start at 12-1500 rpms, 1991-93 Legend (93-006); Exhaust system rattle, 1986-91 Integra (91-051); Camshaft oil seal leak, 1990-91 Integra (91-005); Snapping valve noise, 1990-91 Integra (91-008); No start - Igniter failure, 1988-89 Integra (93-003); Excessive cranking to start, 1986-89 Integra (89-032).

Suspension/Steering: Vehicle speed sensor failure, 1991-94 Legend (94-018); Steering wheel shimmy, All Acura models (94-010); Car drifts to side, 1991 Legend (91-047 & 1992 vigor (92-024); P/S pump "swooshing" noise, 1991 Legend (91-034); Off center steering wheel adj. All to 1990 (90-007); Steering wheel vibrates during pre-delivery inspection test drive, All Acura models to 1990 (90-006); Front steering knuckle clunk, 1986-87 Legend (87-033); Front suspension noise, 1986-88 Legend (87-010).

Transmission: Clicking noise while turning, 1986-93 Integra/1986-95 Legend (92-009); Shudder during up/downshifts, 1986-87 Legend (88-001); No upshift past 2nd gear in A/T, All Legend to 1988 (88-008); A/T final drive noise, 1986-87 Legend (88-008); Upshift flare from 2nd to 3rd gear, 1988-89 Integra (89-031);

Other: Tire noise, 1986-88 Legend (89-007); Buzzing noise from emissions control box (A/T), 1991-92 Legend (92-021).

· Premium Member
9,575 Posts
yea this is good stuff...glad somebody finally got around to starting one here.

when i threw this stuff together for the G2, i posted here to ask people for some help with G1 specific info, but nobody replied...

im still tryin to get Jon to help get a Wiki page started up, so we'll be able to get an assload of G1 specific info added to that too :thumbsup:

· Registered
286 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
UPDATED!....will keep updating on that one to save pages. So check back every now and then. Also wondering if this is sticky worthy because i know we dont have a g1 FAQ page and i dont want to keep editing the post and have it get deleted,lost,or not looked at. O yes and BIG THANX to daddymac117 for some fo the info. above in my first post

· Mr. X (aka #5)
4,591 Posts
1 thing:

the trim levels. the L had the trip compute and automatic climate control. and my base coupe also had the heated outside mirrors. this may just be in the coupes, but that is how mine have been.

where is our G1 mod? *cough* SAM *cough*

· because i can.
10,426 Posts
ikeray said:
the trim levels. the L had the trip compute and automatic climate control. and my base coupe also had the heated outside mirrors. this may just be in the coupes, but that is how mine have been.
While my 87 L had no trip computer and manual climate aunts Base sedan has standard (non-heated) mirrors....

So it is either a difference between:

(A) Model years and standard features

(B) Coupes and Sedans with different Standard features

(C) Ikeray's cars were simply given options when purchased by the original owners (I feel this is the case)

Let me do a search and see if I can find an old brochure that some one posted up that had that spread about what was offered as standard and option throughout Trim Levels....

ikeray said:
where is our G1 mod? *cough* SAM *cough*

· Registered
349 Posts
my 90 L coupe doesnt have a security system unless you count the door locks :D
i dont think it came with one either... but you never know... someone could have ripped it out. it sounds frustrating :D
and the maintanence interval reminder is the dumbest thing... its just a little light that i can never tell if its on or off.. .you are supposed to stick your key in to reset it except my key doesnt fit :D
led is probably just burned out... does it actually work for anyone here?
also my 1990's manual says to stick with 91 octane only... its very clear about this...
is this a canadian only thing?
and my car also has auto climate control... which doesnt work... i think the thermomoter for it may be dead?
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