Yes, by tapping in before the amp, you are taking the low frequencys out so the amp and speakers don't have to work so hard to make those low frequencys. Since you only have a 2 channel amp, I would tap into the front since the rears can do the low frequencys better than the fronts...1_Hot_Legend_L said:Yes, the AMP is for my 2 JL 12w7's! So tap into the leads that run from the HU to the Bose AMP and hook them up to the speaker level inputs on my Kenwood AMP?
Yes, the M-bus to mini or M-bus to rca is what you want.....Kkooly66 said:Nice Forums, I came upon this while googling my question about my car...
Anyway my question was... (i hope this was ok to ask in this forum and if it was the correct one)..
Can anyone tell me what type of audio input a 92 Acura Legend (w/Bose system) has...
I recently came upon this site:
And I was like ooo neat... so I wanted to possibly make a docking station for my PDA so I could play MP3's with some quality... and I figured it could not be that hard.
If anyone can offer me any information on what kind of input it has so i can buy the adapter or any other advice about what I would like to do... like if i could use the fact that my car is CD Changer ready... to my advantage or not... or if I would need some sort of Y-adapter for the input on my car stereo so that I could even plug one of those adapters in...
Or if anyone even knows of a better type of adapter I could use because I do realize those are RCA ends and not a 1/8" connector (but I do have an RCA-to-1/8" sound cable so I figured I wouldnt bother search otherwise)
If theres tips of any other way of doing this that does not require splicing or soldering wires (or creating a hug gaping hole in my console) then help me out here!
At the same time I would also want a cheap route... somethig nunder $50 that still sounds really nice!
I have read some of the info on this site and acura-legend.com about the sound system but i am still a little confused because it doesnt actualy list anywhere.. what tye of connector it is....
Actually there's an adapter made just for iPods, I don't know what kind of PDA you have, but if there's an adapter made for that you can change tracks through the head unit.... check this out.....e-bay listinglogic said:
I know I'm running the subs short on Power. The Kenwood I have is actually a damn good AMP. You won't catch me dead with a JL AMP. They overheat too much. I'm looking for either a Kicker or Kenwood AMP. I seem to have the best luck with those.Livin Legend said:Quote:
Yes, the AMP is for my 2 JL 12w7's! So tap into the leads that run from the HU to the Bose AMP and hook them up to the speaker level inputs on my Kenwood AMP?
damn dawg, you have 2 12W7's in the trunk, with a 600 watt KENWOOD amp... wow, you might run at a constant RMS of 450 watts, when the 12W7s run at 1000 watt RMS, and the quality of the amp is . Go spend some money and get a 1000/1 from JL Audio, www.acaraudio.com has them for $679.00, then you'll be in good shape
the kca420 will not work with the stock radio. the alpine radio controls the whole ipod....u cant do that with stock.Bobchad said:Trying to connect my IPOD to my Bose Premium Sound System in my 95 LS and see that there appear to be a couple of options. At first I was confused about the reference to the Alpine M-Bus reference but I think I figured out that this is a standard used for connecting a CD player to a head unit.
I saw the earlier post referencing the Street Machine Systems adapter on Ebay. While it will charge the IPOD, it won't allow the radio to control the IPOD and I would like to control the IPOD with the radio it at all possible.
The other possible option that I have seen but am not sure whether it is feasible is to use the Alpine iPod Interface, KCA-420i. I've seen references to an adapter to change over the Ai-NET interface to M-Bus and saw references in the Product Technical Guide about a Ai-Net switch that is set based on whether or not you have the processer. I've also seen posts indicating that this will not work on the Bose system. Does anybody know whether it will work or have another option?
alexc said:Hopefully someone will find this useful, I spent a couple hours putting it together after noticing all the threads with questions that could be easily covered in one big write up.
1991-1995 Acura Legend Stereo Information
What system do I have?
There are four different stereo systems that came in the different Legend trims.
1991-1993 Base ---- Honda
1991-1995 L ------- Standard Bose
1991-1992 LS ------ Bose
1993-1995 LS ------ Bose Premium
1994-1995 GS ------ Bose Premium
1995 SE ------------ Bose Premium
A standard AM/FM/Cassette deck that powers four standard 4 ohm speakers.
The Standard Bose system includes the 2200 model AM/FM/Cassette deck, which produces 80Wx4 (peak power) and powers a 4 ohm load on each channel.
The Bose system uses the 2100 model AM/FM/Cassette tuner and an 80Wx4 (peak power) amplifier mounted behind the rear seat. The Bose speakers in this system present a 2 ohm load per channel, which the OEM amplifier is equipped to handle.
The Bose Premium system includes a 2100 AM/FM/Cassette tuner with "Premium" printed on the cassette slot and a 200Wx4 (peak power) amplifier mounted behind the rear seat. The Bose speakers in this system present a 2 ohm load per channel, which the OEM amplifier is equipped to handle.
How many speakers do I have? What size are they and where are they at?
In 1991-1992 models, there are four speakers, the locations of which are obvious. Two in the front doors, and two on the rear deck.
In 1993-1995, four tweeters were added. The front tweeters are mounted in front of the midrange speakers in each door, they are screwed onto the back of the speaker grills. The rear tweeters are located on the rear deck under their own grills.
The front speakers are 6.5S" or 6.75".
The rear speakers are 6x9".
The tweeters are a non-standard size and there are no known direct-fit replacements.
What if I want to replace my headunit or speakers?
The biggest difference in the OEM systems is between those that have the Standard Bose (2200) or Honda deck versus those with the 2100 Bose tuner and external 80 or 200 watt amplifier.
This is the rule of thumb....
If you have a Base or L trim, you can change your headunit or speakers without any compatibility issues. For simplicity, I will refer to this as the "standard" system.
If you have a LS/GS/SE trim, adding only a headunit or only replacing any number of speakers will present several issues which will be discussed. For simplicity, I will use the term "Premium" to describe both the Bose and Bose Premium systems. The two systems are quite similar, the only difference is the "Premium" logo on the deck and the output wattage of the external amplifier.
Replacing speakers in the Premium system
There are several brands which make 2 ohm speakers. The ones I know of are Soundstream and Image Dynamics. They can be difficult to find. The other option is to simply use regular 4 ohm speakers. The volume of the 4 ohm speakers will be half of what it should be due to the mismatched resistance. If you replace only the fronts, or only the rears, you can use the fader to compensate for the difference in volume between front and rear.
Replacing the headunit for a Premium System
If you want to replace the Bose tuner with an aftermarket headunit, you have several options.
1) You can bypass the Bose amplifier and remove it, allowing the new headunit to power the speakers. The headunit will likely be intended to power 4 ohm speakers, so if you have not replaced the Bose speakers, they will play at twice the volume. Although there is some disagreement, it is likely possible that you could fry your headunit if you crank the volume a lot.
2) You can leave the Bose amplifier in place and use a LLC (Line Level Converter) in between the headunit and the amplifier. This would convert the amplified signal sent out from your headunit into a line level signal that the Bose amplifier is designed to accept. You can also try without an LLC and simply hook it up, some have reported success doing this although it would not be considered a "clean" install and will not yield the best sound quality.
3) You could splice RCA connections onto the ends of the speaker wire pairs and connect them to your headunit's RCA front and rear pre-outs if it has them. I don't think anyone has actually tried this setup, although in theory it could work.
4) Ideally, you should replace all of the speakers and the headunit, and bypass the amplifier. I did this, and also removed my tweeters when I replaced the Bose Premium system in my 94 LS, the impact on sound quality from removing them is negligible and un-noticeable to most.
What are the extra connections plugged into my OEM headunit
Pre-wired CD Changer This plug should already be connected to the back of your OEM deck, it runs all the way to the trunk. You can plug in any Alpine M-bus 6 disc CD changer, or you can use an adapter to connect an Ai-net 6 disc changer. You'll also need an Acura-Alpine adapter if you're adding a non-honda/acura changer to correct a difference in the cable's pinout. There is also an excellent DIY for making your own Custom Acura-Alpine adapter
Steering Wheel Controls The one blue wire shown in the image interfaces the steering wheel controls. I believe those with the factory cell phone option might have other wires connected to this harness.
Rear Window Glass Antenna This is the seconday antenna that consists of some wiring in your rear window that resembles the rear defroster, but is not connected to it. The OEM headunit will balance the signals between this and the regular mast antenna to give the best possible reception. The plug is smaller than a normal antenna plug.
How do I bypass the Bose amplifier?
Simply connect the wires before and after the amplifier using the following diagram (courtesy of Legend tuner). Crimp caps will work fine for making the connections, although soldering looks cleaner (I'll do that when I get around to it).
Harness A comes from the headunit.
A1 ----- Orange -------- Left Rear Speaker (+) ----- Connect to B2
A2 ----- Green --------- Left Rear Speaker (-) ------ Connect to B5
A3 ----- Yellow --------- Right Rear Speaker (+) ---- Connect to B1
A4 ----- Red ----------- Right Rear Speaker (-) ----- Connect to B3
A5 ----- Blue ----------- Right Front Speaker (+) --- Connect to C1
A6 ----- Brown --------- Right Front Speaker (-) ---- Connect to C4
A7 ----- White --------- Left Front Speaker (+) ----- Connect to C3
A8 ----- Black ---------- Left Front Speaker (-) ----- Connect to C7
A9-A15 ----------------- Not Used
A16 --- Yellow/White --- Turn on ------------------- Terminate
Harness B goes to the rear speakers.
B1 ----- Red/Yellow ---- Right Rear Speaker (+)
B2 ----- Blue/Yellow ---- Left Rear Speaker (+)
B3 ----- Brown --------- Right Rear Speaker (-)
B4 --------------------- Not Used
B5 ----- Gray ---------- Left Rear Speaker (-)
Harness C goes to the front speakers, power, and ground.
C1 ----- Red ------------ Right Front Speaker (+)
C2 ---------------------- Not Used
C3 ----- Blue ------------ Left Front Speaker (+)
C4 ----- Red/White ------ Right Front Speaker (-)
C5 ----- White/Blue ----- Constant Power
C6 ----- Black ----------- Ground
C7 ----- Blue/Orange ---- Left Front Speaker (-)
How do I add a subwoofer to the OEM system?
For any of the stock systems, you can tap the rear speaker wires and run them to your subwoofer's amplifier. If your amplifier has speaker level inputs, you can use them. If not, you can use a Line Level Converter (they cost about $10 online). You'll want one that has RCA outs (the most common type) to plug into your amplifier.
Please post any comments, suggestions, or corrections.
So how'd this turn out? Need a passenger side speaker myself.4cruizn said:Thanks for the tip Steve. One thing to mention, though, is that the $40 is just for one speaker. For some reason, I read your post thinking that the $40 would cover a pair of them. I did go ahead and order a replacement and it was fairly straightforward. For anyone else interested in factory Bose replacement speakers, you send a check for $40 to:
Attn: Matt Dorin
Mail Stop 014W
688 Great Road
Stow, Massachusetts 01775
Include a short letter that you are ordering part number 141564 as Steve mentioned above. That's all there is to it. I'm going to get mine sent out today. I've had a blown driver's side speaker for a long time.
Check the 20A fuse under the hood for the bose system. Make sure it is not missing or blown. One question, does the power antenna go up when the radio is powered on?GZGottaLegend said:im having a problem with my friends 91 ls. there is no sound coming from the speakers at all. first i thought it was the wiring but i triple checked that. so i took the head unit out and put the stock radio back in. still getting no sound. does anyone have a way to check if the speakers are working properly of if they work at all? Thanks in advance.
Ok, let me know what you find out. The fuse should be a 20A and be labeled (Bose). Another thing to remember is that the power antenna and Amp use the same remote lead on the Legend. Make sure that you are using the remote wire and not the power antenna wire on the aftermarket radio. If you fail to do this then when you switch to CD/Tape you will have no sound but when you switch to radio you will have sound again.GZGottaLegend said:yea the power antenna goes up with both radios hooked up. Just cant get no sound from the speakers at all. Usually if i had messed the wiring i would at least hear static, but i dont hear anything at all. i havnt checked the 20a fuse under the hood but i will do that now.