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Discussion Starter #1
1987 Acura Legend coupe alright guys this seems to be the best bang for the buck i could find on craigslist. I currently have a 1995 oldsmobile achieva an im going to talk to him today to see if hes interested in a trade.i reallllly want a g1 back
 

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because i can.
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Be sure to run a carfax by getting the VIN over the phone (if he refuses or gets offended, walk away) and maybe this will help in negotiations:

Common parts are pretty readily available (brake pads, filters, suspension components, alts etc.), its when you get certain stuff that commonly fail like the TDC Sensor, Crank Angle Sensor, Igniter unit, etc. that you have a hard time finding them for a reasonable price...

As far as buying one, follow this:

~Have the Timing Belt AND Water Pump been changed?? If not, then take off some cash from the sale price because you will need to pay to have that done asap and it costs about $500-$750 (dont let them know you will be doing the work yourself :D)

~Any leaks from the valve and side valve covers? Oil Pan gasket? Oil cooler? Oil ANYWHERE? Take off some cash bc you will have to pay to have that fixed :)D)

~When was the last time the transmission was serviced (if auto)?? This is VERY important...if not recent, or ever, take off even MORE cash OR walk away...if manual, when was the last clutch job, oil change, and clutch fluid flush?

~How are the suspension components? Any creaking from the ball joints or control arms? Any clicking CV joints (easy to test this on the test drive)?

~A/C and heater work properly? Does A/C Condensor fan come on??

~Do both fans come on at appropriate times?

~Any check engine light?? Click the ignition to the II position without starting the car to be SURE that ALL of the lights come on...I have heard of unscrupulous sellers taking out the CEL bulb and the buyer not realizing until months later :nono:

~Any ABS noise? By this time, there are most likely more cars with non-working ABS than working ones......use this to your advantage and take some cash off for that....

~When was the cooling system last flushed and serviced??

~Has the car EVER had a Check Engine Light?? If so, what was the problem and was it solved???

~BE SURE that you get to see the car started for the FIRST TIME in the morning!! This will reveal any funny noises, fuel injector leaks, and valve tick that disappear once shes been warmed up.

Remember to ask WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME XXX WAS DONE?? (Replace XXX with any of the common maintenance stuff that I mentioned above). If they state that they were done, ask to see receipts and records...if proof CANNOT BE PROVIDED, then you need to go on the assumption that they were NOT done....and that should be reflected in the final sales price....

Thats off the top of my head....anyone have anything else to add??
 

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Nice looking car, and it could be an exceptional deal; especially if rust is minimal - and I mean minimal, visible and otherwise. If there's rust on the panel below the trunk lid, don't worry about it as it's a common problem, not to mention that the panel is just bolted on and is easily replaced. If the rust is in the fender seams and elsewhere, then that's another story as it will only get worse and is extremely difficult and costly to permanently repair. Other plusses are that the mileage is great, and having a 5-sp is a lot of fun (not to mention that you avoid the A/T woes that are increasingly common as the G1s age).

Ditto on Gabe's advice, especially concerning the timing belt and water pump. They're supposed to be changed at 90,000 miles, but it's not terribly uncommon for people to neglect it. If so, then 140k is really pushing it. What's worse is that if the belt breaks, then say goodbye to your engine. I'd insist on proof that the work was done, or else I'd negotiate the cost of doing the work into the price, unless you don't mind paying $500.00+ on top of the $1400.00 to get the work done. If he won't budge off the price, it might be a deal breaker given the trim level and age of the car. If the rust is really minimal, then it may be worth the extra cash; it's pretty much a judgment call.

The A/C repair can range from relatively minor to quite expensive, so if having an A/C is important to you, then you'll want to try to narrow down the problem and negotiate the price accordingly. The cruise control might be as simple as the plastic tab on the clutch pedal arm that engages the switch plunger being broken out.

Good luck and I hope it works out....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ya i miss my old legend..ended up hitting a telephone pole. good news is i am a mechanic. i just wanted some input. just not sure on the check engine light ..ill ask him to check it out....i hope he trades for my achieva..he said hes looking for a 4 door family car
 

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Mo*or Mo**h
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The "check engine light after driving awhile" is likely going to be a Code 12 - EGR Valve. Not critical, but could be important if you've a smog test to pass.

Otherwise, appears to be a nice looking car, but I'm a little biased.
 
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