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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
To anyone who has done a CV joint replacement themselves, could you hit me back with a message? I would like a little insider knowledge.

Thanks.

-FurBall
 

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I think it's just easier to replace the entire drive shaft than to mess with replacing just the joint. Just my $0.02 worth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have you done it either, or both ways? What kind of cost difference is there for a do-it-yourselfer?


Thanks.
 

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sorry can't help you with personal experience, but i cashier part-time at an autoparts store (thus i hear loads of advice:D); this is the scoop on servicing bad CV joints: most mechanics (DIY's and professionals alike) recomend replacing the CV half shaft instead of messing around with the joints and boots. its much much less work and there are less things to mess up on. time/money/stress wise, its easier to replace the whole half-shaft.

BTW- when you go to an autoparts store to buy the CV half shaft, you'll be charge for a "core charge" as well as the new/refurbished one as well. when you bring back your old broken half shaft to the store, they refund you the "core charge". the whole "core charge" buisness is used to encourge recycling of auto parts and discourage waste. just letting you know so you don't get any surprises at the register.
 

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FurBall said:
Have you done it either, or both ways? What kind of cost difference is there for a do-it-yourselfer?

Thanks.
I replaced the entire drive shafts with rebuilt units. This is much easier than trying to mess with the joints once the shaft is removed from the car just because you don't have to hassle with finding the parts for the joint.

Most auto parts stores can get rebuilt shafts quite easily. I think you're going to be stuck with the dealer parts department if you're looking for the joint piece parts.

For me, the cost difference didn't enter the equation.

In the long run, I feel it's much more economical to replace the entire drive shaft with rebuilt ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks everyone. Looks like I will be doing the whole shaft, not just the joint.


As for the labor involved......does anyone know if it is terribly complicated? I have the factory manual to follow, and a full set of tools in the shop. I"ve done complete brake jobs, and Spring/shock swaps before, so I am relatively familiar with the whole spindle area.

-Furball
 

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furball,
are you doing this with or without airtools?? With airtools is very straight forward. Remove the hub nut, remove the drop fork cross bolt, remove lower ball joint nut and drop the lower control arm ( either with a ball joint splitter tool or hammer on the control arm), lower lower control arm, lift hub/spindle assembly while removing your 1/2 shalf from it. Carefully pull 1/2 shaft out of transmission housing ( you may need to use a large screwdriver to pry it from the tranny ). W/O airtools you may have a problem with the hub nut and ball joint nut. Hub nut can be loosened while the car is on the ground before you remove your tires as for the ball joint nut, if the ball joint is relatively new you won't have a problem but if it's worn the "bolt" will turn and you will have a hard time removing as well as tightening the nut.

As for replacing just the boot or the whole 1/2 shalf. The boot is not too hard to replace, you just need a good table vise and the correct boot clamp tool ( i believe there are two diff types of clamps). If you go this rout make sure the inner boot is ok as the cost of an inner as well as an outer boot is almost the same as getting a rebuilt unit. ( inner boots don't go bad that often )

Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks Nick.

Do you have to actually remove the lower ball joint, or just take the nut off to lower the control arm?

Also, I will be replacing the entire half shaft....so does that mean that I will not have to monkey with boot clamp tool?



Does anyone know about the inner CV joints??? Do they go bad often? How do you tell if the inner or the outter is bad??
 

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Furball,
Just remove the nut to the lower ball joint, this and the cross bolt to the drop fork will allow you to lower the lower control arm. If you are replacing the 1/2 shalf with a rebuilt unit then you won't have to "monkey" around with the clamps. Bad inner joints make the steering shake at low speed, moderate acceleration. Bad outter joints make a clicking noise when you are taking a turn. Neither joint should go bad unless the boot is torn/leaking and all the grease has leaked out.

I also hope you are not putting in a Trak Auto/Pep Boys/Auto Zone unit. They come with lifetime guarantees but I've had bad experiences with them. You might want to go with a NAPA or Olympic Auto Parts CV axle or a OEM Honda Unit.


Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Okay Nick. Thanks for all the valuable info. I truely appreciate it.


I have priced out a Schucks replace 1/2 shaft...but I will check with NAPA also.

I guess the only thing I am worried about is the nut on the ball joint (I know what you mean about the bolt/stud turning) and the HUB nut.


Any advice on removing the HUB nut? I am not sure I have a socket large enough to do that.
 
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