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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I have a 95 Legend L sedan with 127k....it used to shake violently between 40-75mph...

I've done the following:

1) 3 sets of rims (2 OEM used and 1 aftermarket new) (aftermarket has the centering rings)
2) 3 sets of tires
3) mounted and balanced lawd knows how many times
4) replaced both front axles (upon mechanic recommendation)


After I replaced both axles, the shaking calmed down considerably but is still slightly slightly present. I have new tie rods, ball joints, control arms in my possession...wondering if changing the tie rods would help at this point?

Mechanic said rear transmission mount is in great shape...


HELP!!! :)
 

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i have a similer problem,
depending on the rims i have on
17' and 18' vibrate more then when i hade 16' the ride was way smoother and wouldent shake at all....

my steering vibrates between 80km/h and 120 km/h if i drive faster then the shake turns into a smoooothie....
does the steering ever pull randomly left or right....??
check the rack..... thats what im thinking
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
zero steering pull..had recent alignment done with my new shocks (shake was there before and after)
 

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If the new axles helped then I would do tie rod ends next as they're probably worn from all the movement due to the old axles...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
the old axles were fine (looking)....but they would bind up when cold or extremely warm....
 

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Matthew is THE USER!
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yea my wheel shakes at 120 ish and once past 120 its smoooth . thats most likely just the rims for me though.

i would have to say tie rods if both axels have been replaced already.
 

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check your hub assembly for run off, I had a proplem like this with my integra. turned out the previous owner had the bearings changed and her mechanic bent the hub on the front wheel. I believe we measured it to have about .45 of an inch of run off. it was all out of shape.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
front hubs are fine...I saw the car apart yesterday....
 

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front hubs are fine...I saw the car apart yesterday....
did you actually look at the hubs spin them and observe there movement? not to sound like an asshole it's just that a hub being out of whack is something you can't just eyeball. I didn't notice the one on my integra until about the 5th time i had all the brakes off and i am pretty sure the only reason i saw it was because the run off was so bad it could be eyeballed (it looked like a top when you spun it, it wobbled that bad:lol: ).
 

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When you say "new" axles...

Do you mean literally new OEM axles, new NAPA axles, or refurbs?

Unfortunately, the majority of mechanics will opt for refurbs and though some people have great luck with them, some folks find that the refurbs are no better than what came off the car in the first place.

Your brake rotors aren't warped to all get-up are they?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
new rotors...got refurbed OEM axles...
 

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Aguy
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I use to have a problem with my car shaking around that speed, and it ended up being the brake calipers sticking.
 

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I'd say it's unlikely but possible that the refurbed axles are your problem.

I'd be shocked if your hubs are bad at 127k... in the 550k miles of Legend ownership that my family can vouch for, we've never had a hub go on any of the 3 cars.

Install the new control arms and tie rods first... if that doesn't fix it and the car is still in good alignment and balance, I'd definitely consider replacing the axles with a NEW axle assembly or an extremely high quality alternative (Raxles.com are technically refurbs but they're extremely carefully built and so far, my experience has suggested they are of suitable quality)

The Legend's front end is TERRIBLY persnickety about even the slightest vibration... unfortunately, there are lots of things that can cause slight vibrations. Hope you've got deep pockets if you're really bent on fixing it...

EDIT: aging brake calipers is a distinct possiblity as well... that's DEFINITELY worth looking in to. Especially if you don't replace your brake fluid every 2 years or more.
 

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I'd say it's unlikely but possible that the refurbed axles are your problem.

I'd be shocked if your hubs are bad at 127k... in the 550k miles of Legend ownership that my family can vouch for, we've never had a hub go on any of the 3 cars.
I agree they don't just go bad, but can be bent when a careless mechanic does bad work and bends them while installing bearings.
 

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bandoni™;1267430 said:
I agree they don't just go bad, but can be bent when a careless mechanic does bad work and bends them while installing bearings.
To my knowledge, I haven't had bearings go bad either ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
:( hmmmm
 

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Beware of cracked cv boots

So I have a 95 Legend L sedan with 127k....it used to shake violently between 40-75mph...

I've done the following:

1) 3 sets of rims (2 OEM used and 1 aftermarket new) (aftermarket has the centering rings)
2) 3 sets of tires
3) mounted and balanced lawd knows how many times
4) replaced both front axles (upon mechanic recommendation)

After I replaced both axles, the shaking calmed down considerably but is still slightly slightly present. I have new tie rods, ball joints, control arms in my possession...wondering if changing the tie rods would help at this point?

Mechanic said rear transmission mount is in great shape...

HELP!!! :)
Aaah! my friend! I had a similar situation, and it turned out to be 2 problems going on at the same time. One of the issues was a bad wheel bearing on the drivers side. This was caught by the guys at firestone when I went to try and get an alignment. With the car jacked up, move the wheel up and down or back and forth. It should be firm. If it gives you any play right on the hub, then the wheel bearing is bad. Compare with other side just to get a feel for the firmness.

Knowing that from Firestone, it still was weird that the vibration I would get was speed dependent. From a cold start, the car would ride just fine. Then after half an hour of driving, it would start to vibrate with a grrrrrrrrrinding noise, which would quite down if step off the gas, or speed up.

I had changed my axels myself (believe me, NO fun, rolling around the cold garage floor on my back, and compressing the spring coils with hand tools). One was brand new from NAPA, and the other was remanufactured, also by NAPA. This initial axel changing was because the driver side cv boot by the wheel was open, and the joint was grinding on turns. No problem diagnosing this one, because it was in the open for even a non-mechanically inclined person to see.

It took a long time after the new axels before the car started to have the intermittent vibrating at high speed. And I read a lot of new-axel horror stories on the forum. Then I started noticing grease build-up on the metal sheeting above the inner cv joint on the drivers side. I couldn't understand where it came from. With time, it got heavier and heavier. And the vibrating was getting worse, and happening at even lower speeds.

One day when my mechanic friend had the car on the lift at the shop cutting out a rear caliper bracket on which I had rounded off a bolt, I went poking around at the driver side axel. Then right below that grease build up, I found a small crack on the inner cv boot! The only reason i found it was because I kept flexing and stretching the boot, and yup! There it was!

The guys at Firestone had not found the crack, and neither had my mechanic. It was really small.

So, what was happening was that the inner cv joint was loosing grease when it got hot at high speeds. At the beginning of a drive, the grease was solid and stayed in the boot. But after a while driving at high speeds, the grease gets hot and thinner, and therefore escape through the crack in the boot, getting flung out onto the roadway and the metal shielding under the car. With time the vibration got worse because the joint was running out of grease.

So I decided to change the drivers side axel along with the wheel bearing, and then go get the wheel alignment. I had paid for the lifetime alignement at Firestone, so i was having my mechanic friend do the axel and bearing for me at the shop after hours. And the good thing is, the remanufactured axel from NAPA was lifetime warrantied, and so i paid the extra $20 and upgraded to brand new axel, also with lifetime warranty.

Since then my friend, I have been driving in bliss! And I do Columbus, OH to NYC very often. No more vibration.

Except now the beast is down for a 3.5L swap. Finally succumbed to the BHG. Mmmmph!
 
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