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417 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Q: HELP Requested with Keyless Entry Installed (DEI Valet 712T)

I have a problem. The next time I'll just pay the damn $50 to get the an keyless entry system interfaced to my factory alarm in my 92 Acura Legend L Sedan vs. putting it in myself.

Four hours after starting this project with a friend, my keyless entry system still doesn't work *and* my factory alarm doesn't appear to arm when you lock the door. Having gone this far though, I'm not eager to throw in the towel just yet - that's why I'm asking for help here.

I have the keyless entry brain tapped into the following wires:
* 12V Constant (hooked into the ignition switch harness - easily accessible where it plugs in near the kick panel)

* 12V Accessory (hooked into the ignition switch harness): likely tells it to shut down when the car is ON

* Passenger's Door LOCK signal: Green/White on connector that plugs into the sercurity alarm higher in the dash.

* Passenger's Door UNLOCK signal: Green/Blue on connector that plugs into the sercurity alarm higher in the dash.

Gunn's Analysis: I believe this car taps into the passenger lock vs. the driver's lock b/c the way the Legend is wired unlocking the passenger's door with a key unlocks ALL the doors while unlocking the driver's door only unlocks the driver's door. I got the wiring colors from the Bulldog security website.

* Grounds
* Dome Supervision Light
* Parking Light Trigger
* Programming Switch
* Programming LED

With the Keyless Entry Brain Plugged-In:
* The LED is active when the car is locked and turns off when you turn the ignition ON.
* The programming switch works
* When you press a button on the remotes, the dome lights and the parking lights blink.

* PROBLEM: when you try to lock or unlock the doors, the keyless entry system doesn't work.

* PROBLEM: When the door is locked with the switch or the key, the security system does NOT ARM. This is true even if you pull the keyless entry brain off the car and just leave the harness "tapped" into the wires.

Gunn's Analysis:
I believe this means the keyless entry brain works and is connected to the following wires: 12V constant, 12V Accessory, the Dome light wire, and parking light wire.

Q: Am I tapping into the right wire to lock/unlock the doors?

I double checked and have measured continuity from the Keyless entry harness to the harness going into the security brain so I know that if I picked the correct wires for the LOCK/UNLOCK, the damn thing should work.

Is there another situation that is causing this headache (perhaps a blown fuse)? If so, where should I look to remedy this problem? What else should I check. The car appears to lock normally (doors all lock when you lock turn the key in the door) but the security system doesn't ARM itself anymore.

Please advise!

· Registered
417 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the offer! My friend and I actually figured it out the most crucial part - getting the key lock/unlock working.

My only problems now are;
a) finding the right wire for the trunk release so I can hook it up to a relay and CH#3 on the keyless entry brain

b) My OEM security system seems disabled. I've tried the following and none of them cause the OEM security light to start blinking:
- locking the car with the key (both driver's and passenger's side)
- pressing the lock button & closing the door
- Disconnecting the keyless entry and trying both #1 and #2

Q: Is there a fuse I might have tripped?

Thanks for your help, SmartJay28.

Lessons learned:
* It's alot easier to splice into these wires if you have a good pair of wire strippers (the $25+ dollar kind) , diagonal cutters (the $25+ dollar kind), and soldering iron (Weller - $100+ kind). Your installation will look much cleaner.

* Instead of looking at the ignition switch for 12V constant + accessory, follow the fat loom to where it connects to the left side of the car (above the fuse box). It's much easier to splice into the heavy gauge wire over there vs. right behind the keyhole

* The color-system for the wires is retarded since it appears to vary quite a bit and there are multiple GREEN/WHITE and GREEN/BLUE wires. Assuming that the pin positions remain the same and the colors are the same (worked for me), I used the pinouts in the service manual to determine which wire I should be tapping into.

* Before cutting into the wire, test the pin by using a digital multimeter to read the voltage between that harness and ground. If the wire is 12V and drops down to nearly 0V when you lock the door, that's your lock wire. Ditto if another wire does the same when you UNLOCK the car.


· Registered
417 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Ah Ha!
I got the OEM security system working again. I'm not sure which one of these two actions got the car to ARM itself on a regular basis, but one of them worked:
* I pulled the negative cable off the battery.
* After the car was unlocked, I locked and unlocked the driver's door with the key. For some reason, the second time I locked the car in this fashion the OEM security alarm activated.

I guess the locks are now in sync with the state the OEM battery thinks its supposed to be in b/c everytime I unlock/lock the doors with the keyless entry system, the system works as expected.


BTW, I just realized that trunk release is a pretty damn stupid feature for this car. If I need to unlock the trunk from the car, I'll just press the button. If I need to unlock the trunk from the outside, I'll just use the keys. The added value of remote trunk release isn't worth digging for another wire.
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