Acura Legend Forum banner

Help! Unsolved Overheating Issue!

1178 Views 5 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  MRAGraves
Had posted this in another thread, let's try it here:

First off, I just replaced the engine in my legend that had 173,000 miles and a bhg with an used engine with 100,000 miles (direct swap). With the old engine, the car eventually started to have white smoke come out of the exhaust (I honestly believed it happened due to me being unexperienced and performing a amateur coolant flush on the car). Next the car eventually lost heat in which came back for a short time then went away for good (car still has no heat with new engine installed). Finally the car would overheat at times (gauge would go up to red and I noticed coolant reservoir tank would be filled to the top with coolant but there was one time the opposite happened, tank was emptied out when it was half full of coolant). I also noticed every time the car overheated and I opened the bleeder bolt bubbles would continuous come out, none stop.

A pressure test was done on the car prior to getting the new engine and I was told the car was not holding the amount of pressure it should be. The mechanic also did the lisle funnel method to bleed the system and I witnessed the coolant in the funnel at one point drain all at once and then a big cloud of white smoke came out of the exhaust.

Now with the installation of the new engine these parts were changed too:

timing belt (aftermarket)
water pump (aftermarket)
valve seal covers (aftermarket)
cam shaft seals (aftermarket)
crank shaft seals (aftermarket)
thermostat (was told it was OEM but I have suspicions)
radiator cap (aftermarket)
radiator fan timer (oem)
radiator fan relays (aftermarket)

The coolant was flushed & air was vacuumed out of the system (coolant not acura brand)
oil change was done w/ new filter

Back when I first bought the car at 140,000 miles, I also got both radiator hoses replaced with aftermarket hoses.

I am looking into getting a radiator control unit as the fans come on sometimes. Today when the car overheated, no fans kicked; wasn't far from home so I did the whole go and stop, let car cool off, then go again until I got back home. When I pulled in the driveway, the temp. gauge was on the notch before the red notch, the fans came on.

Help?

Also the car takes a long time to turn over, and when it finally does it shutters on (acts likes it going to shut back down but then starts up). Whenever this happens alot of white smoke comes from exhaust then eventually goes away (cold start or warm). The RPMs on cold start go to 2000 then work it's way down, while warming up, to a notch or two below 1000.
See less See more
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Your questions can best be answered by reading the looooong thread "BHG" since your story is typical of a BHG.
These cars run flawlessly usually and will usually run well even with a broken head gasket as long as the spent water is replaced.
Yeah... I seen that thread haha; was hoping for a quick suggestion or two. I'm really hoping it's not a BHG as I just replaced the old engine that had one. I'm putting my faith in that the newer engine sold to me does not have a BHG. I'm at a lost here so I'm going to ask, when you say spent water, are you mentioning the water that is mixed with the coolant?
Yeah... I seen that thread haha; was hoping for a quick suggestion or two. I'm really hoping it's not a BHG as I just replaced the old engine that had one. I'm putting my faith in that the newer engine sold to me does not have a BHG. I'm at a lost here so I'm going to ask, when you say spent water, are you mentioning the water that is mixed with the coolant?
Well all of your explainations still indicate a BHG.
A simple test is: Remove radiator cap, fill radiator to brim, crank engine. If water overflows there is pressure being applied. Thats what happens when the headgasket is broken. The piston pumping up and down pressurizes the cooling system and the water overflows. :mad:
Do this test after engine is warm to ensure that the thermostat is fully opeaned.
Spent water is like spent money. It's gone.
Thanks, I appreciate it. I will deff. try out the test.
Problem Solved!

I wanted to just come back and announce that the overheating issue has been solved. The Radiator Fan Control Unit (37735-PY3-901) was bad; fans were not operating correctly. However, I am now trying to diagnose a new problem that has arisen, low engine idle in park, drive (w/ brake applied), and reverse (w/ brake applied); opening a new thread for it.
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top