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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If I was to try to replace the head gaskets myself ('95 coupe), what all is involved? I'm thinking other than the obvious time and a place to do it. Are there any special tools that I would need, or diagnostic equipment? Or would a basic set of wrenches and sockets do the trick?
 

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Nick.... thats a great album that you put together there. I had no idea what the inside of the engine looked like, and now I know why my mechanic had such a pain doing this job... it looks quite intensive. I have nuttin' but respect for people who tackle jobs like that themselves... good job:)
 

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You blew another headgasket and i though u just replaced yours like 50,000 miles ago? im sorry for ya man that sucks. Do you think its all your mods or was it put it worong or something?? thaks.
 

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Hey all,
for the ultimate head gasket you can get a solid copper one from
www.paeco.com they are designed to use over and over and they are virtually blow out proof regardless of compression ratio or turbo use as long as mating surfaces are flat.
Sure it costs more, but how much have you already been through?
 

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You blew another headgasket and i though u just replaced yours like 50,000 miles
ago? im sorry for ya man that sucks. Do you think its all your mods or was it put it worong or something?? thaks.
My mods shouldn't have made a difference. What would effect that mostly is driving style in this situation or I didn't do that job right the first time.

I don't know yet for certain if it's the headgasket but I replaced the radiator about 3-5k miles ago, I replaced the radiator cap just in case and I now see sludge forming in my overflow canister :(

I will have to get it tested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm curious about this one, actually. The page for those Paeco copper gaskets says something like this...

"...If the block and head mating surfaces are milled true before installation..."

So, my question is... if the block and head mating surfaces were milled true, what is the need for the gasket in the first place? If the gasket is .060" thick, couldn't they just leave an extra .060" on either the head or the block when they are forged/milled and forget the gasket altogether?
 

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yeah. if they are almost perfectly true they wouldn't need a gasket. ie air-cooled VW motor cases are in right and left halves with no gasket between.

Would also have to question if the head and block have same thermal expansion/pressure expansion etc...


ps if your HG job lasted 50k mi, I'd doubt it was your install that faulted. maybe the quality of the gasket itself? Are G2's prone to HG failure? If so, sounds like design flaw in head/block/gasket somewhere.

Man, I'm sendin all the good thoughts your way that I can, I feel for you (not in a literal sense :D )... Good luck with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So I called around a bit, and prices to get my HG's replaced vary wildly. One guy told me $4000, the dealer told me $1800 two weeks ago and $2500-3000 today, and a local shop gave me the best price I've seen.

$610.50 labor
$194.02 parts
~$60.00 head inspection at another shop

plus any fee for milling/pinning of the head at the other shop.

Is this a pretty reasonable price?

Also, I'm about 15k miles overdue for the 90k service (timing belt, water pump, etc). Any chance that doing both at the same time would save me some labor $$$ ?
 

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Svc book (only goes up to 91, all rec prices are for that year) that I got off Ebay lists the following:
R&R or Gasket Renew, Cyl Head 3.2 liter
Includes: remove carbon and make all necessary adjustments:
Time:
1 head 7.9 hrs/2 heads 10.9 (multiply ea by shop labor rate)
Parts:
HG $39.49 ea.
Valve cover gskt $9.16 ea
Not sure if camshaft seals are needed: $8.94 ea.
Unsure of what other parts involved.

The timing belt runs $63.18
TB cover plate gskt $2.13/8.31/4.21/4.21 (4 total)
Time: 3.3 hrs, although I think that almost all of this would be included in the HG job.

Water pump renew
Time: 3.7 hrs, unsure how much labor woud be saved during HG.
WP $82.00 (don't know if this is gskts etc, or rebuilt pump)

Hope it helps, it's late, and I'll leave the math to you....
:D
Keep in mind that the above prices are from 91 service man. and on a '91 3.2 motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah, the book I saw had 10.8 hours for the Type I and 11.1 hours for the Type II engine. I know that the price I got for the gasket kit was for a "complete set", and was supposed to include all of the gaskets necessary, not just the two head gaskets.

So, is that the timing belt that I see in those photos you posted earlier? If it is, it would appear that the belt gets removed anyway during this procedure, so I would think that the only additional cost to replace the TB would be parts.
 

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TB hours prob be free IMHO, but ?
Almost... You still have to replace the water pump, remove the lower plastic shrouds and a few other minor things to get to the timing belt. I would say at least an hour of labor to pull it off and another hour to put it all back for a mechanic.
 
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