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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
how to replace the VSS

I could not find the tutorial for VSS replacement. So, I used the Helm's manual, and the instructions on the replacement part to figure it out. I've attached an image of the part installed on the car. Hopefully this image, and the following notes will help others to perform this task.

First, you need to order the replacement part. The part number is 06560-PY3-000. You need a #20 Torx tamper-proof bit or screwdriver. The Torx tamper-free is NOT the same as a normal Torx bit. Tamper-free bits have a hole in the tip. You will also need a 10mm box-end wrench, 10mm socket wrench, and a phillips head screwdriver.

Then, you need to remove the plastic shroud that protects the forward-underside of the engine bay. Jack up the car, and find the oil filter. Remove the 10mm bolts and two plastic buttons that secure the shroud that spans the entire width of the car, and is just forward of the oil filter.

Now, take a look at this image:



The VSS is located right beside the oil filter. First, detach the electrical connector circled in red. Next, remove the single 10mm bolt cirlced in yellow (with yellow arrow). By twisting the whole assembly back and forth, you can withdraw the VSS from the differential. A few drops of oil will spill -- have a rag ready. Then, remove the 3 Torx screws from the top of the VSS. These are circled in green on my image. Finally, use a phillips screwdriver to remove the 2 screws that hold the sensor unit to the assembly.

Replacement is the reverse. I found it much easier to work with the new parts while the VSS assembly was dangling from the two rubber hoses that you need not remove. Be sure to replace the O-ring on the VSS shaft, and the odd-shaped dust seal that goes under the top plate.

The whole job took about an hour... I could do it again in half the time now that I know how.

Cap
 

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Re: how to replace the VSS

Just did that last week. Dust seal is the pain to put back. it doesn't hold in place by it self.

I used exactly the same procedure as you.

One more helpful advice:
Those phillips screws are tough to remove. If the phillips screwdriver not catching those 2 screws, make sure you have the right phillips head. I had about 5 different phillips bits and only one was catching the head of the phillips screw well.

Also, on my sedan I didn't have to remove any plastic underbody cover. I could just reach in to the hole
 

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Man! I attempting changing my VSS today, and had nothing but bad luck. I finally got the assembly off the car. But I stripped the philips screws. I tried everywhere screwdriver I had. Then went to Sears and tired everyone they had. The head just got worse and worse, but did budge a bit. What can I do now? Can i drill them out? But the VSS kit didnt come with new screws.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If the screw heads aren't too badly mangled yet, you can try this trick: get some valve lapping compound and place a small dab on the tip of the screwdriver. Now apply a strong downward pressure on the screwdriver while turning. It will generally work if the screws aren't completely ruined.

Cap
 

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Cap,

Terrific pictures and instructions! Thanks a lot!
I got out and under last night and went right by the oil filter and found something on the side of the transmission that I thought might be the offending part (vss). It had 4 wires at a connector going behind a black plastic piece, and it looked a little challenging to get off. I was delighted to see from your pictures that I was in the wrong ballpark! Any idea what that part was that I was looking at?
Thanks again,

Dave
 

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Someone put this in the DYI section.

Good pics Cap.

Can someone give me a quick run down on the symptoms of a bad VSS.

Does the car shift irratically or jerk at times during travel or what?
Or is it just that the speedometer jumps around during travel?

Someone put this in the DYI section. This is good info.
 

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Re: Someone put this in the DYI section.

CakeDaddy said:
Good pics Cap.

Can someone give me a quick run down on the symptoms of a bad VSS.

Does the car shift irratically or jerk at times during travel or what?
Or is it just that the speedometer jumps around during travel?

Someone put this in the DYI section. This is good info.
Speedometer jumping is usually the symptom. Then your D4 light starts blinking (auto). If your D4 light starts blinking then your transmission might be a little hessitant to switch gears at the right time.

One other symptom I had was that when D4 was blinking and I had to come to the stop fairly quickly, my Check Enginge light and TCS lights went on.
 

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Re: Re: Someone put this in the DYI section.

shahavchik said:


Speedometer jumping is usually the symptom. Then your D4 light starts blinking (auto). If your D4 light starts blinking then your transmission might be a little hessitant to switch gears at the right time.

One other symptom I had was that when D4 was blinking and I had to come to the stop fairly quickly, my Check Enginge light and TCS lights went on.
ahhh, I see. that helps alot thx. I dont have the symptons, but its good to know.
 

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Are all of the vss modules the same (interchangable) through all of the years?
 

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I was in the process of pulling my VSS out and replacing it when I saw that I need to replace the VSS assembly o-ring. Does anyone have any suggestions on where I can get a replacement o-ring? Would the dealership sell me one? Can I get this at an auto parts store? How do I tell what size I need?

Thanks in advance.
 

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llloydxmas said:
I was in the process of pulling my VSS out and replacing it when I saw that I need to replace the VSS assembly o-ring. Does anyone have any suggestions on where I can get a replacement o-ring? Would the dealership sell me one? Can I get this at an auto parts store? How do I tell what size I need?

Thanks in advance.
To replace VSS electronic component, you don't need to pull the entire VSS unit out of differential. Just unscrew the top part. All the pars needed for that come in VSS replacement kit.

However if you pulled the whole unit out, you can most likely get the O-ring from a dealer. They would know the size.
 

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Due to the potential problem with stripping of the phillips screws, remove the entire unit. I used a vise to hold the unit while I R&R the pickup. You just need to plug the two fluid lines. The rebuild kit included the gasket and O-ring.

Another symptom of a glitchy or failing VSS is to have your Cruise control disengage for no apparent reason.
 
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Hmmmm, cruise control disengaging... On my drive home last week from buying my car, The criuse control would work fine until I hit a medium to large bump when it woud either disengage completely or "jiggle down" and stay engaged at a slightly lower speed (5mph). I haven't had time yet to try and diagnose.. but could this be it?
 

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Interesting, i did have my speedo jump a few times while i owned the car, but the jump was so minor and if i didn't look at the right time I wouldn't have noticed it. And I use cruise controll all the time! It's never disengaged on me at all. I'm debatign the replacement because of the possible incorrect mileage being reported. --=Keith
 

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guys,

I just replaced my VSS. It was a piece of cake, but it takes some time. The first picture posted is a great one tos tart with.


Be sure u have access to those tricky Torx screws before you start this project!

You would want to remove the underbody plastic piece to gain access to it. Next remove the two hoses and quickly plug them up. Once that's done, unscrew the bolt and unplug the connector. When u are removing the unit, some fluid will come out.


When u have this unit out, make sure u have the proper Torx screw. These are not common. Remove the 3 screws, replace the sensor along with the two small rubber gaskets (one in the top cover and one that's in the long cyclinder)

Once those are in, screw in everything else.

Once back in, I took it for a test run. Man, my car feels a lot more responsive and less hesitant about which gear it's in. Feels like my car actually has more power now. Say goodbye to the posessed speedometer and the flashing D4 light!


I encourage you all to get yours done. It's a cheap fix. $100 for parts.


happy motoring,

vu
 

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I replaced my VSS a few days ago too. Mostly because my speedometer is off a little at low speeds but off by as much as 10-15mph over 60mph. I thought my VSS sensor was to blame. Replaced it and the speedo is still off - must be something else.

But an interesting note is this - I've noticed my speedo jump twice since replacing the sensor - maybe it's just settling-in from having the whole VSS assembly pulled out.

I'll probably put my old sensor up on the For Sale section since I now know that it wasn't malfunctioning.
 

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VSS (speed sensor) switched successfully!!!!

Thank you so much for the picture! It is one thing to see a line drawing, but it is clearly better to have an actual picture.

My speedo was jumping all around, and the D4 light was blinking. I had all the symptoms of the VSS going bad, so I went for it.

I ended up biting the bullet and buying the part from the dealer for 108.88 total. I bid on one on ebay but it ended up selling for almost 120.00. Thanks to the tutorial, labor only cost me the price of a new 10mm box end wrench and the Torx bit.

I got the first phillips out easily, but the second one started to strip. Luckily I tried a few other screwdrivers, and finally got one to work. Since the kit came with new torx screws, I noticed they were the same size as the phillips, and just used two torx screws to remount the sensor.

I just finished it. Took probably 45 minutes all together. The biggest problem I encountered was that the 10mm bolts holding on the black plastic "protective shield" seemed to want to break on me. I got the back ones off and just peeled it back enough to reach in.

I haven't had a chance to road test it yet, but if everything I have read is true, then things should be okay.

THANKS EVERYONE!
 
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