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How To Replace The VSS

211K views 144 replies 100 participants last post by  Videosbyray  
#1 ·
how to replace the VSS

I could not find the tutorial for VSS replacement. So, I used the Helm's manual, and the instructions on the replacement part to figure it out. I've attached an image of the part installed on the car. Hopefully this image, and the following notes will help others to perform this task.

First, you need to order the replacement part. The part number is 06560-PY3-000. You need a #20 Torx tamper-proof bit or screwdriver. The Torx tamper-free is NOT the same as a normal Torx bit. Tamper-free bits have a hole in the tip. You will also need a 10mm box-end wrench, 10mm socket wrench, and a phillips head screwdriver.

Then, you need to remove the plastic shroud that protects the forward-underside of the engine bay. Jack up the car, and find the oil filter. Remove the 10mm bolts and two plastic buttons that secure the shroud that spans the entire width of the car, and is just forward of the oil filter.

Now, take a look at this image:

Image


The VSS is located right beside the oil filter. First, detach the electrical connector circled in red. Next, remove the single 10mm bolt cirlced in yellow (with yellow arrow). By twisting the whole assembly back and forth, you can withdraw the VSS from the differential. A few drops of oil will spill -- have a rag ready. Then, remove the 3 Torx screws from the top of the VSS. These are circled in green on my image. Finally, use a phillips screwdriver to remove the 2 screws that hold the sensor unit to the assembly.

Replacement is the reverse. I found it much easier to work with the new parts while the VSS assembly was dangling from the two rubber hoses that you need not remove. Be sure to replace the O-ring on the VSS shaft, and the odd-shaped dust seal that goes under the top plate.

The whole job took about an hour... I could do it again in half the time now that I know how.

Cap
 
#53 ·
changed VSS

Hi I read this thread and replaced my VSS.I had all the symptoms of a bad vss, my d4 light blinks, and my speedometer jumps around, so I changed it today and now my speedometer doesnt even move, it just stays at zero, and my d4 light always blinks now instaed of once in a while. just wondering after you change the vss does it take some time to start working? Do I have to drive the car for a awhile like on the freeway? I just drove the car up and down the street and it just stays at zero with the blinking d4 light. Also I reset the ecu. did I buy and defective VSS kit? it was brand new in plastic packaging. any help would be appreciated, thank you.
 
#54 ·
Just picked up a used '91 a few days ago. It's an auto and it exhibits all mentioned above: Speedo ususally not working, blinking D4, and shifts abrubtly (especially from 1st to 2nd). I live on Guam, where can I order a VSS in the US mainland? This forum rocks! Never owned an Acura (I'm a diehard Mustang owner) just got it as a second car so I can supercharge the 'stang. It's a really smooth car and I will definetly keep it and don't mind spending a little money on it to keep it goin, very good daily driver!
 
#59 ·
1trkpny said:
Just picked up a used '91 a few days ago. It's an auto and it exhibits all mentioned above: Speedo ususally not working, blinking D4, and shifts abrubtly (especially from 1st to 2nd). I live on Guam, where can I order a VSS in the US mainland? This forum rocks! Never owned an Acura (I'm a diehard Mustang owner) just got it as a second car so I can supercharge the 'stang. It's a really smooth car and I will definetly keep it and don't mind spending a little money on it to keep it goin, very good daily driver!
Does anyone know if this will help my car shifting like his ^ from first to second a little smoother/ or is there something I can do to make it shift smoother. I dont have any other symptoms at least yet i dont. If anyone know's this would be greatly appreciated.
 
#60 ·
Hey all,
I currently have the freaking speedo and blinking D4. The check engine light just came on. It was code 17 for the VSS. Could it be a bad ground? I wound think that the connection might just be loose.

Also, the drain holes for the sunroof keep clogging. (wicked mess when it rains)
Are there only the two in the front corners?
Thanks
KC
 
#61 ·
kcpizza, you would be better off posting the sunroof question in a seperate topic.

I just did my VSS today, fixed my problem. Took about 2 hours including taking off and replacing the dust cover.

I didn't pull the whole unit, just removed the cover for the VSS in place and replaced it. Burnt my hand and arms a few times, but oh well. It's done and no leaked fluids. :D
 
#66 ·
the kits they have on ebay are great.... i got mines about 80 bucks only really have to change the electronics inside... if you cant get the screw on the top off use a grinder and cut a little slot on the top of the screw so u could use a flathead. the kit comes with the o ring, and dust cover seal.. put a little bit of oil on the cover so the seal stays in place while u reinstall it.. the kit also somes with new t9 screws (not sure about the size) so u can throw away the ones u just grinded. also while u down there change the oil, filter and change ur tranny fluids...
 
#68 ·
Someone earlier in the thread mentioned the Check Engine light illuminating at high rpms....

Would a Check Engine light that has been illuminating be connected to a VSS problem that is just now showing itself by the speedo going crazy and the D4 light blinking?

The reason I ask is that an Acura mechanic could not figure out what was causing my Check Engine light to illuminate whenever I got above 25-30mph and told me to keep an eye out for any other symptoms.
 
#69 ·
its definately a possibility. My VSS would usually start to fail when I would accelerate quickly or drive for more than 2 minutes. Check engine light only came on for me like 2 times with my bad VSS though and went out after restarting the car. I've heard people who had their check engine light illuminated from a bad VSS though. D4 blinking and bouncing speedometer are defiantely a symptom though. VSS is pretty cheap and very easy to install (just put mine in last night). just make sure you can find a torx 20 tamper proof tool though to get it in. The check engine light should be connected to a code that causes it to go off which the mechanic should be able to figure out by hooking it up to a machine. Im not a mechanic though so dont take it from me, just going from my own personal experience.
 
#70 ·
Ya, I was under the impression that the mechanic should be able to get the code, too. However, I've had a long string of dud mechanics ::haha::

I have the D4 blinking and the speedo jumping every now and then, so it's obviously something that needs replacing here soon. Might just do that and reset everything and see if I still get that check engine light.
 
#71 ·
Thats how mine was at first. bouncing every so often then after a few months it jsut sat at 0 nearly all the time. best to get it fixed now. Good Luck!
 
#73 ·
i had a similar problem. was all set to replace the VSS when i decided to pull out the service manual and followed those steps before spending 200cdn on the unit.

turns out that one of the wires that was supposed to supply a min of 5volts was only giving 0.45 volts and was thus the problem. I've already retraced the wiring to the power seat but have not looked into it yet.

I'm wondering if the VSS is only receiving 0.45volts by the wire if I should even bother replacing the VSS as a new unit might not even do much.
 
#74 ·
Sorry to bring this up again guys but i just want to be clear about it before i start spending more money on the car.. will replacing this fix the problem if only my trip and odometer aren't workin?? cuz my speedometer still works fine and i dont wanna go in a screw up something else. thanks in advance for any help...
 
#77 ·
My recent experience with a non working odometer and trip meter turned out to be the instrument cluster. I replaced the VSS a year or so ago to resolve the usual VSS failure symptoms in a 94 AT sedan. The odo and trip meter quit about 2 months ago - there were no other unusual symptoms apparent in the cluster as would be the case if the VSS was failing again. See this post for lots more detailed info ... Ken

http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=110113
 
#79 ·
vvs

I could not find the tutorial for VSS replacement. So, I used the Helm's manual, and the instructions on the replacement part to figure it out. I've attached an image of the part installed on the car. Hopefully this image, and the following notes will help others to perform this task.

First, you need to order the replacement part. The part number is 06560-PY3-000. You need a #20 Torx tamper-proof bit or screwdriver. The Torx tamper-free is NOT the same as a normal Torx bit. Tamper-free bits have a hole in the tip. You will also need a 10mm box-end wrench, 10mm socket wrench, and a phillips head screwdriver.

Then, you need to remove the plastic shroud that protects the forward-underside of the engine bay. Jack up the car, and find the oil filter. Remove the 10mm bolts and two plastic buttons that secure the shroud that spans the entire width of the car, and is just forward of the oil filter.

Now, take a look at this image:

Image


The VSS is located right beside the oil filter. First, detach the electrical connector circled in red. Next, remove the single 10mm bolt cirlced in yellow (with yellow arrow). By twisting the whole assembly back and forth, you can withdraw the VSS from the differential. A few drops of oil will spill -- have a rag ready. Then, remove the 3 Torx screws from the top of the VSS. These are circled in green on my image. Finally, use a phillips screwdriver to remove the 2 screws that hold the sensor unit to the assembly.

Replacement is the reverse. I found it much easier to work with the new parts while the VSS assembly was dangling from the two rubber hoses that you need not remove. Be sure to replace the O-ring on the VSS shaft, and the odd-shaped dust seal that goes under the top plate.

The whole job took about an hour... I could do it again in half the time now that I know how.

Cap
 
#81 ·
be sure to check your wires before replacing your vss...

I ordered my part on ebay for $97. When I went to remove the bad one I found out that my wires were cut and slashed in 2 different spots. Of course I reworked the wiring before installing the part just to check and the original vss still worked! I learned my lesson to rule out any simple fixes before buying expensive replacement parts.

I havent even taken the vss repair kit out of it's plastic packaging, it's still brand spankin new. I will sell it for $80 shipped. My loss is your gain. (I post this here because it's not letting me do so in FS forums for some reason, plus obviously alot of vss DIY'ers will be here.) Send a PM if interested or email me at younga@bgsu.edu about paypal payment. I'll have it in the mail within an hour of payment via USPS priority mail. If you want it get ahold of me asap before I convince myself to ebay it and get all my money back!