[S4gunn]

I'm having problems installing my Valet 912T.
I was originally targetting the GREEN/WHITE for Door Lock and GREEN/BLUE for Door unlock based on the Bulldog Security wiring diagrams for my 94 Acura Legend L:
http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/printpage.asp?ModelID=12677&MakeID=6

However, since those two wires didn't work for my keyless entry system, I'm not sold that I have the right wires selected. I'm confused now.

SmartJay28 Says:
Power Lock green/white - door lock module
Power Unlock green/red - door lock module
Factory Alarm Arm green/yellow - at anti-theft module
Factory Alarm Disarm green/red - at anti-theft module

BL420's JPG picture for a 1991 Acura Legend says:
POWER LOCK = Green/White
POWER UNLOCK = Green/Red
"Door Lock Module & Factory Anti-theft mounted together between column and center console above the accelerator pedal. Can also use black/white & black/red for locks"

-----------------
My confusion is this: According to my Haynes Manual, there are multiple wires coming out of the power door lock module that are the SAME color.

For the 1994 Acura Legend Sedan, I have the following options according to the posts above:

Option 1:
Green/White = LOCK wire Drivers Door Lock Switch
or
Green/White = LOCK wire Right Front Door Latch Assy

Green/White = UNLOCK wire Drivers Door Lock Switch
or
Green/Red = Right Front Door Latch Assy - Door Switch

Option 2:
BLACK/WHITE = LOCK wire Front Passenger's Door Lock Switch
BLACK/RED = UNLOCK wire Front Passenger's Door Lock Switch

WHICH ONE DO I CHOOSE?!!!
Please advise.
Regards,
-g

 

[S4gunn]

I got the LOCK/UNLOCK to work!
I still have a problem with my OEM security not arming but that's not relevant to this thread. These notes are though

Lessons learned:
* Take the lower dash board off with instructions from the Main Relay DIY. I did this before I even started work on the car. I dunno how I could possibly have done with job with the full dash still in place.

* It's alot easier to splice into these wires if you have a good pair of wire strippers (the $25+ dollar kind) , diagonal cutters (the $25+ dollar kind), flux core solder, and a soldering iron (Weller - $100+ kind b/c the 15W radio shack stick won't cut it). Your installation will look much cleaner and you'll spend far less time cutting and resplicing a tiny little wire.

* Instead of looking at the ignition switch for 12V constant + accessory, follow the fat loom to where it connects to the left side of the car (above the fuse box). It's much easier to splice into the heavy gauge wire over there vs. right behind the keyhole

* The color-system for the wires is retarded since it appears to vary quite a bit and there are multiple GREEN/WHITE and GREEN/BLUE wires. Assuming that the pin positions remain the same and the colors are the same (worked for me), I used the pinouts in the service manual to determine which wire I should be tapping into.

* Before cutting into the wire, test the pin by using a digital multimeter to read the voltage between that harness and ground. If the wire is 12V and drops down to nearly 0V when you lock the door, that's your lock wire. Ditto if another wire does the same when you UNLOCK the car.

 

[S4gunn]

your OEM alarm wont work with remote keyless entry... reason being the only way the OEM alarm will arm itself is if you hit the lock switch inside the car before closing the door.

you can arm your OEM system by simply just doing that... just hit the lock switch. and hit the lock button on your remote and if you see the red led blinking for the OEM security then you have activated both.

Perhaps I'm off base here, but when I hit LOCK on my keyless remote, the car locks and my OEM system's LED (the one on the door) starts blinking. When I hit UNLOCK on my keyess remote, the car unlocks and the OEM system's LED stops blinking. That sounds like the OEM alarm is arming/disarming to me. Even if it doesn't work, at least I get the "security" of the blinky light.

The only explanation I can come up with for this phenomenon is that at an out-of-state professional alarm installer friend-of-a-friend's recommendation, I purposely tapped into the Passenger's side door lock for LOCK/UNLOCK wires vs. the driver's side lock. It kind of makes sense b/c when you unlock the car with the key in the driver's side, only the driver's door unlocks but when you do the same thing on the passenger's side, all doors unlock.

-g