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They will not be sold to the forums until Tyler and I have sufficiently tested them on our cars, so I would not worry about that. Sway bars will come along later on, since the two of us can't do 5 projects at a time. They will come soon enough though, and everyone here will be kept up to date on them.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
94LegendCoupe said:
About the sway bars on your site, whats the deal with those?
I dont want to get involved with the springs until they are tested
sway bars have had only discussion, but i may need somebody in florida who wants a hook up to test them for me, or at least take their ride down to get measured.
as far as i know the guy who makes most of the prototypes for major after market companies is there, and my friend Randy knows him and deals with him often.

but phil is right, springs and downpipes are immediate, then headers and sway bars will come later.
 
tnelson said:
sway bars have had only discussion, but i may need somebody in florida who wants a hook up to test them for me, or at least take their ride down to get measured.
You got it! :2cool:
 
Anything over spring over 500 and the Konis can handle the pressure. Thats why the JIC's are the route to go for racing/track setups.

JIC will do custom set-ups for spring rates but you will have to pay the full price which is about 1400 retail.

Or you could just buy JIC struts and run the springs that tyler is selling...

What is the difference between linear and progressive??
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
TI II said:
Anything over spring over 500 and the Konis can handle the pressure. Thats why the JIC's are the route to go for racing/track setups.

JIC will do custom set-ups for spring rates but you will have to pay the full price which is about 1400 retail.

Or you could just buy JIC struts and run the springs that tyler is selling...

What is the difference between linear and progressive??
linear has a constant spring rate all the way up. progressive has a section that is a lower rate and rises into the higher rate, giving a slightly softer ride, but almost as good handling. it does have a little more body roll than linear though.
 
ScotcH said:
Are these progressive rate springs, or linear? Keep in mind that linear is great for race, but sucks on the street, and vice-versa.

Also, as a point of reference, here are some rates (lbs/in):

stock: F=~220, R=~150 (prog)
Eibach: F=~280, R=~180 (prog)
Okay. I have a question on this topic. I put eibachs on my ride back in August and took em off a little over a month ago due to the stiff ride. If I were to order a custom Eibach prokit with stock spring rates, it would feel just like a stock ride, correct?

At this point of time I am have stock springs and Koni's which in my opinion is a very comfortable ride. I am lowered just a tad, but nothing major. When I took tha eibachs off, tha rear sits tha same as it did with em on. I only notice tha difference in tha front gap. I'm just curious about this topic at hand.

Peace
 
Blue_Raspberry said:
Okay. I have a question on this topic. I put eibachs on my ride back in August and took em off a little over a month ago due to the stiff ride. If I were to order a custom Eibach prokit with stock spring rates, it would feel just like a stock ride, correct?

I'm not sure that will work very well. If you shorten the spring (lower) and don't increase the stiffness (lbs/in), you might be hitting the bump stops over bigger bumps. The way the spring rate works is how many inches a given mass will compress the spring ... since your car's mass does not change, and since you want the OEM rate, it will still compress the same amount as a stock spring. However, since the spring is about 1.5" shorter than stock, you might run into problems with bottoming out. Does that make sense?

This is just all speculation of course, based on my limited suspension knowledge :)
 
ScotcH said:
I'm not sure that will work very well. If you shorten the spring (lower) and don't increase the stiffness (lbs/in), you might be hitting the bump stops over bigger bumps. The way the spring rate works is how many inches a given mass will compress the spring ... since your car's mass does not change, and since you want the OEM rate, it will still compress the same amount as a stock spring. However, since the spring is about 1.5" shorter than stock, you might run into problems with bottoming out. Does that make sense?

This is just all speculation of course, based on my limited suspension knowledge :)
It kinda makes sense. But see, I do even have bump stops at all. When I was goin' through my "suspension stress", tha head mechanic at tha dealership said that u really don't need tha bump stops in. I can't remember exactly how he worded it though, so I can't go into detail with it. But I have been without bump stops for tha past 4 months and have never bottomed out, even when I was lowered on eibachs.
 
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