[cantaloupe]

hi kahruzer,
thank you for your soon answer. what can i say. nothing changed really.
i supposed that the "beru" igniton wires are wrecked, because i changed 2 of them with other beru wires and the performance changed. what a big ass difference. so much power again. but after 4 days the car felt back in old mode. i thought with the new honda ignition wires everything will be o.k. but nothing changed. i am thinking about putting my old distributor back only to see whether sth. will change. a new distributor is very expensive. 600 Euros!!
i saw that they are very cheap in the states. can you recommend any online store for distributors? what also surprised me that the clutch has to be changed after only 74tkm!! And no, no codes ever came up again. i really do not know what to do.

brgds, sergi

 

[cantaloupe]

who does know how to check the distributor the best?
thanks in advance for hlp. sergi

 

[KAHruzer]

The Distributor is a mechanical device which works until it fails, but then tends to make noise. The Distributor does however hold two crucial electrical parts for the spark path in the Rotor and the Cap. If either of these have not been replaced, I'd start there. They are the other end of the plug wires, so need to transport the current well. Caps are often bad with no visible sign.

Upstream from there are the Coil and Ignitor. Simple tests to determine if they are good or not. But, if the Coil is the slightest amount out of spec, it needs replacing.

You can check the resisstance rating on each of the plug wires. Check the plug ends for arcing (to the block). I had one arc out the side of the insulator to the block and caused a missing cylinder. One out of six makes the car run really bad.

And, for good measure, formally check the firing order and plug assignments again. It's easy to get them mixed up when changing wires.

 

[cantaloupe]

found the faulty item!!!!

.. after years of suffering, ;-) I or let me say a experienced mech. found out that the pcv valve was faulty, and this caused all the power loss, especially in low rpms. I will ask him for futher details when I pick my car by end of this week. thx for all help in this forum! brgds sergi:thumbsup:

 

[C27A1Legend'88]

I am glad you got your car running right again.

My Legend has a problem where it loses power intermittently too. I'll have to get a new PCV valve and see what that does.

 

[cantaloupe]

i picked my legend today, the acceleration at/up 3400 rpms improved a lot, but in low rpms between 2000 and 3000 rpms its still not good as before. But i am quite happy with the outcome.

I am thinking of cleaning the intake manifold and have a look at bypass valve body, and change the gaskets accordingly. What do you think?

 

[cantaloupe]

LIMP MODE AGAIN

The car again felt into limp mode. I changed the ecu from another 1st gen legend to be sure that this is not the culprit,After I changed the ecu i saw that the lever down at the bypass control valve is in MID position, But with my original ecu the lever is in an other position. There are 3 position as I found out. When the engine is off it is in pos 3 the lever is at position or direction of chassis number plate. When I start the engine it moves all the way back to pos 1(direction to radioator) when i accelerate it moves up to 3000 rpm to MID position and with more acceleration it moves to pos 3. I reseted the ECU as well. After I replaced with my original ECU again the pos of the lever moves at pos 1. This is strange isn´t it? I still have this power loss, and nobody can help me?