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Ok, so Im thinking screw chasing down relays, to figure out this fan problem! Im going to wire in the fans so they both kick on at about 185 degrees and they will run constant til the temp drops down! Does anyone know if there would be a downfall to doing that??
 
Ok, so damn, I wired the fans into a external thermostat, works great!! the fans come on high speed when car gets up to temperature, but the problem is, that now the radio is throwing a code... and the radio wont work!!! WTF???? What the hell is wrong with this thing!!!!
 
I think I may have figured out what happen, pretty sure its just a code for the stereo, cause its the original stereo in the car, I just need to reset it!! I hope!!! I will let you all know how the car does as far as overheating with having the fans wired to the thermo!
 
I think my fans are wired backwards, If Im standing in front looking at the car, they are blowing clockwise, and I think its suppose to blow counter-clockwise, by the way the fins look!! Can anyone tell me for sure which way the fans are suppose to spin!! I was always under the assumption the fans are suppose to blow out away from the motor, are they suppose to pull air into the engine?????
 
Fans blow toward the motor/radiator pulling "cool" air in.

I just had to jump in here as I've been lurking for some time now. My Acura's just haven't had any problems lately and vayankee does a good job at responding.
 
K so I pulled the thermostat out, cause it was an aftermarket, now my fans kick on, and keep the guage clear down on cold, but Im still getting pressure built up in my hoses and my reservoir tank keeps getting fuller... Is that a BHG, or could my water pump be causing that, Im not sure if Im not getting enough circulation so the fans are keeping the radiator cool but not the engine, or if its a Bad Head Gasket! Im so clueless right now on how to fix this, I may just sell this thing!!
 
Since you opened the system to replace the thermostat, there is now air in the system again. That will cause the system to blow coolant into the reservoir, until the air is eliminated. As I said earlier, these cars have a very complex cooling system, but once it's right, things work very well. Also, the coolant temp is used to affect the idle speed, so you may encounter fast idle and/or surging idle. Again, that would indicate air in the system. One thing you might consider is a Lisle 24610 Spill-Free Funnel (I got one from Amazon) to help refill after draining the system.

That's good news that the fans are working again.
 
My 95 was overheating so I replaced the thermostat (OEM). I bled it twice. It still overheats. The fans never kick in on their own so I'll probably replace the thermal switch. But what's odd is if I leave the AC on, and fans stay on, it still overheats. It never overheats at idle or at low speeds. When I hit about 45mph, the needle starts to shoot towards H. As soon as I let off the accelerator the temperature drops to normal. Any ideas?
 
My 95 was overheating so I replaced the thermostat (OEM). I bled it twice. It still overheats. The fans never kick in on their own so I'll probably replace the thermal switch. But what's odd is if I leave the AC on, and fans stay on, it still overheats. It never overheats at idle or at low speeds. When I hit about 45mph, the needle starts to shoot towards H. As soon as I let off the accelerator the temperature drops to normal. Any ideas?
Hi in most cases air traps into the system. The best thing is start with the simple and inexpensive diagnosis. Replace thermal switch that goes to the bottom of the radiator, then check on the condensor and radiator fan relays, bleed the system. Also check on any worn hoses that may cause air in the system. Our cars are complex and need extra care.

Otherwise, you have a blown headgasket. I done everything possible to fix the overheating problem to no avail to later find out I did have a blown headgasket.

My advise to you is replace the headgasket before you actually blow the engine. This is based on my experience. I have been replacing parts, sensors, hoses, heater core, water pump i mean everything for a year to find out is a blown headgasket. My headgasket was blown at #3,4, 5 and 6 cylinders. Thats because I could drive the vehicle locally and no overheat but the problem was I made the problem worst by driving it thinking its was nothing to later find out it was the headgaskets all that time.

Peace

-Desi
 
My 95 was overheating so I replaced the thermostat (OEM). I bled it twice. It still overheats. The fans never kick in on their own so I'll probably replace the thermal switch. But what's odd is if I leave the AC on, and fans stay on, it still overheats. It never overheats at idle or at low speeds. When I hit about 45mph, the needle starts to shoot towards H. As soon as I let off the accelerator the temperature drops to normal. Any ideas?
By thermal switch, I assume you mean the thermosensor at the bottom of the radiator, right?
Any smell of coolant leaking?
You are in Michigan, I take it, so I would doubt that it gets warm enough for the fans to come on at idle anyway. But I wonder about the temp gauge sender, on top of the engine.
First, I would make sure that there is no air in the system, as Desi says above. Air can get trapped in the weirdest places on these cars, and definitely make to temp gauge give you a fright. After bleeding is completed, you might try getting a pressure test done, if all else fails.
 
new guy here

I have a 1993 Acura Legend. The engine temperature lately has been jumping from nothing to showing "H." The car does not appear to be actually over heating, however whenever the temperature starts to creep up the heat shuts off in the car. Seems to run a little rough (maybe?) when this happens. Any suggestions?
 
I would not drive it until you sort this out. If the heater does not work you may have a leak so that air is blocking the coolant from the heater core. Does the temp gauge not go up slowly at all? If it runs cold for some time, that is usually a sign of a bad thermostat. I believe that these fail in the Legends. I would check that and get a pressure test after bleeding the system thoroughly.
 
My thermostat keeps spiking up. It's happens randomly no matter how long I'm driving.
The first time it happen, there was coolant coming out of the pipe on top of the reservoir, but that hasn't happened again yet. Any ideas if this would go away if I replaced that pipe?
 
My thermostat keeps spiking up. It's happens randomly no matter how long I'm driving.
The first time it happen, there was coolant coming out of the pipe on top of the reservoir, but that hasn't happened again yet. Any ideas if this would go away if I replaced that pipe?
It's not the rubber hose that's causing a problem. Your cooling system has air in it. Perhaps you had the coolant changed awhile back or had some work done on the system so that air was introduced. Of course you also could have a leak in the system. There's a bleeding screw on top of the engine (12mm wrench) to get the air out. How's the level of coolant in the radiator?
 
If the thermostat doesn't work, does check engine light come on?
I don't really know on that question. In my experience, a thermostat can not do its job if it is the wrong spring pressure which is a finction of the temp when it opens and closes. if the thermostat is deteriorated, coolant will flow through regardless of the engine temp. The result will be a low temp gauge reading.

Forgive me if you know all that. Whay did you ask about the thermostat?
 
I just drained my coolant, replaced thermostat and radiator cap. The cap was leaking. Going for a test drive now.

Edit: Temperature stays okay while driving, but when I stop, it starts going up to H. Going to try bleeding it tomorrow again.
 
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