Acura Legend Forum banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

Caldokid83@Gmail.com

· Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
So I now have what seems to be hesitation or "Bucking" again. It went away for about 5k now its back again. When i hit the gas (Over 50) it kind of "Slightly" Jerks while it gains speed. If i look at the RPM's I can see them drop slightly also. I replaced the spark plugs (Whch the front right had some oil on it, i think), replaced the gas filter, cleaned EGR and throttle Intake. Bled coolant system, replaced ait filter, added tranny fluid. If i disconnect the front right plug that had iol on it and drive it, i can tell the dirrefence so i know its fireing, but what else could it be? Hasnt anyone had this problem?

Hit the gas at around 50 and it bucks its way to 55...60...65.
I get no check engine lights or codes at all.
The howl in the engine seems to studder to when this happens...
 
Discussion starter · #2 ·
usually i run 91. Somtimes 87 and occasionally 93.but that wouldnt cause the problem im talking about. Of course, if you think otherwise please state :) That would just cause the car not to have as much performance. What im talking about is almost like a misfire in the engine that misfires and misfires until it just goes away.. a shake, a buck, a hesistation. No dealer can replicate it. It went away now its back.
 
running lower octane causes the car to knock, a higher octane fuel can be compressed more than a lower octane fuel, and in turn the explosions may happen before the spark plugs do anything. in turn your almost running like a diesel truck. i doubt this is the cause of your problems but thats why only supreme for legs... you only really saving pennys now but paying for expensive repairs later.
 
The higher the octane the more knock resistance. Run her at 93 for a few weeks and see how she does.

Very similar problems have happened to the vast majority of us. A fairly intermitent bucking feeling under acceleration at higher speed is typically an inner CV joint failure. Crawl under the car and see if either of the rubber boots on your axles are torn but even if they're not, I'll bet one or both of your axles are shot and need to be replaced.

If one side is torn, then you know which one needs to be replaced, for starters at least. Last time I was having strange acceleration problems, I just bought 2 new axles and put 'em on. I was in throw money at the problem mode. It fixed it though, just as I'd suspected!
 
And I still think it's an axle...

but you should be running 91-93 octane anyway.
 
Discussion starter · #8 · (Edited)
eI am right now.. close to E, i put 5.00 in of 93 and 3 of those octane boosters. I am runnig at 96 octain. Having the same issue.
How much are axles, where are the "Boots"? I do kind of notice a shake again harder than before... how hard are they to change?
 
The octane boosters are likely overkill...

I bought my axles for $180 (for 2 mind you) from raxles.com. I had to send him back my old axles but cost of shipping was included.

The boots are on the axles. If you crawl under your car, you'll see the axles where the connect to the hub on one side (directly behind your rim) and the differential on the other (the diff is in the center of the car). The axle looks like this and the boots are the big rubber things on the axle:

Image


Axle replacement DIY if you need more help finding them: http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=69991
 
Sure. Take pictures of both sides and make sure you get the inner and outer boots in the shots. Also keep an eye out while you're under there for what looks like a grease explosion: that's a sure-fire indicator one of the boots tore.

It might look fine and still be busted though. If the CV joint (the part that the CV boot covers) is worn out on its own then the exterior of the CV boot will look fine despite the joint's failure and tendency to behave as you've described.

Bring on the pics though - it's a good start!
 
Yeah, you should be able to email me by clicking my alias and selecting Email.
 
As best I can tell, your outer boot on that side looks OK but I'm not sure why the inner CV looks half dry and dirty and half wet. It's the inner joint going bad that causes the problem you're describing so I'd say they look a little suspect. If that dark spot is grease, then it likely came from inside the boot which, judging by the fact that you can feel it misbehaving, means the CV joint is shot and it's time to get that axle (and maybe the other one if it's also shot) replaced.

If you were going to take the car to mechanic, I'd take it in tell them to pay attention to your axles as you were advised they are likely the cause of your issues.

If you're going to do it yourself, then maybe somebody here who can tell a little more from the pics can speak up before you start ordering parts.

I don't want to be the one to tell you that you need new axles and have you go and spend your money only to realize that's not what's wrong.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Well thats ok. I think I am selling this car off anyway soon. I am moving to Calgary in Mid-summer. I love this car, hate to loose it but Im not mechanically inclined enough to fix eveything i think is wrong with it. Ive done so much as it is except buy a new engine, but thanks for the advice :)
 
the boot doesnt have to be torn for the axle to break... learn this the hard way. the stupid shop i paid to replace them for me but crappy reman stuff in there and they used a zip tie to secure the boot.... im guessing water seeped in or the axle was already crap and it broke. decided to do the stupid repair myself because mechanics can be lazy bastards. being stuck in traffic or at a light and having to pay 180 on towing fees on top of your new axle cost isnt fun or financially smart... does your car hesitate when you rev it in park?
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts