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LEGENDARY MEMBER
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm getting a little pissed off at this point because these shitty photocopyed directions are a joke.

So far I've installed 3 coilovers (both FRONT and passenger REAR)
I'm about 99.99% sure they're installed right.

Problem#1
I measured the FRONT ksport against my FRONT oem shock and adjusted the ksport 1 inch shorter. I did this for both sides. Why is my driver side FRONT lower about 1 finger lower than my passenger FRONT? It's been about 5 days so I don't think it's going to settle.

Problem#2
I measured the passenger REAR ksport against my REAR oem shock and adjusted the ksport 1.5 inches shorter. Why the hell is my passenger REAR now jacked up higher than my oem driver REAR?

thanks,
Mark
 

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hey, you gotta also remember, our own suspension sags liked a bitch. while the sports don't as much. best way to adjust the suspension is install it. measure how much lower you want to to go. then adjust taht much down.

as for the front ride height, make sure that the spring preload is set the same.
 

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EDM KA8 owner
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Same "problem" with koni+H&R and with many other setups. Somebody wrote here that's the design of the Legend suspension. But the 100% proof answer for this problem is not known yet. I have the same 1 finger difference too, my alignment is good and car runs straight, so i don't care anymore.
 
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I first had that problem with mine, but it was quickly fixed. I had my car on a lift and removed all 4 Ksports at once. I made sure to triple check all my measurements on the spring coil and the shock length. My driver side rear was a 1/4inch shorter which made it look more like a inch shorter when installed. Which made the whole driver side seem to sit "off." So just make sure that if you would do what I did lock them in once they are installed and make sure you triple check the measurements it will be fine. OT though how did you get your Ksports only 1.5 shorter then stock size? Mine were WAY shorter then the factory shock/struts. Like 4-5 inchs shorter with the Ksports fully lengthened.
 

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I'm getting a little pissed off at this point because these shitty photocopyed directions are a joke.

So far I've installed 3 coilovers (both FRONT and passenger REAR)
I'm about 99.99% sure they're installed right.

Problem#1
I measured the FRONT ksport against my FRONT oem shock and adjusted the ksport 1 inch shorter. I did this for both sides. Why is my driver side FRONT lower about 1 finger lower than my passenger FRONT? It's been about 5 days so I don't think it's going to settle.

Problem#2
I measured the passenger REAR ksport against my REAR oem shock and adjusted the ksport 1.5 inches shorter. Why the hell is my passenger REAR now jacked up higher than my oem driver REAR?

thanks,
Mark
Remember, whatever you do in the front diagonally effects the the rear. So jacking up right rear will lower and put a pre-load on left front.

Here's what I did...it worked for me. Start by making sure their is no preload on the springs...adjust the spring perch so the spring is tight but still turns. measure to make sure the distance between the spring perch and lower strut tube is exactly the same on both front shocks and install them. Loosly bolt them in...because you'll be changing them several times.

Then do the same on the rear shocks. Once everything is installed, adjust the ride height in the front first. I put a small mark (or use the K-sport sticker) and as you lower or raise the ride height, count the number of full turns on each side. Measure the height from the ground (using the center of the wheel as reference) to the edge of the fender lip. Once you are happy with the front, do the rears the same way.

When you have everything close...check your measurements. If you were planning on racing your car, you'd now put it on scales and set the corner weights.

You can now add a little preload on each spring by tightening up the lower perch. This will help eliminate some of the bouncing associated with coilovers...even on the softest setting, because the springs may be too stiff for the shock dampening to work. Tighten each spring perch two rounds for starters. Now re-check your ride height. For street use, don't worry about corner weights...You are now either finished with the install - or if the differences in ride height side to side really bother you, change it by adjusting the shocks - remember raising the left front lowers the right rear, etc. You'll be able to get pretty close...if not exactly the same.

Another important thing about coilovers...if you feel bounce, your shock dampening may be actually too soft for the springs. Keep stiffening the shocks until bounce goes away - that should be your new "soft" setting.
Mine are set at 4 in the rear and 6 in the front.

It's confusing, but eventually it all makes sense - hope that helps.
 

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LEGENDARY MEMBER
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the replies, but still have a few questions...

So the only way to adjust height (wheel gap) is to remove the coilover and turn the cylinder(lower mount)?

I think I know what you mean by full soft but, want to be sure. Is it when the spring perch is set so the spring is fully extended without being loose?

Do spring settings settngs affect height?

Do the -k- allan keys adjust height?

m3456y, I'm sorry but what do you mean by set 4 in rear and 6 up front?

I willl be installing the rear driverside later this week

OT though how did you get your Ksports only 1.5 shorter then stock size? Mine were WAY shorter then the factory shock/struts. Like 4-5 inchs shorter with the Ksports fully lengthened.
Not sure, I could turn mine almost to stock length.
 

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no, you CAN adjust height with out removing the coilover.

what you do is, loosen the lower lock, and turn it all the way up to the other 2 locks, lock it into the other two. now use the wrench (supplied wrench) to turn the lower lock to raise, upper lock to lower, basically, turning the "shock" in/out of the housing.

spring preload will affect height. and yes you want to set it so the spring *if installed and hanging in the air on the car* until the spring closes the gap btwn, it and the top mount, then turn it 1 or 2 more turns to get it tight

BTW, you should be able to set it to stock ride height via turning the shock out of the housing enough.
 

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no, you CAN adjust height with out removing the coilover.

what you do is, loosen the lower lock, and turn it all the way up to the other 2 locks, lock it into the other two. now use the wrench (supplied wrench) to turn the lower lock to raise, upper lock to lower, basically, turning the "shock" in/out of the housing.

spring preload will affect height. and yes you want to set it so the spring *if installed and hanging in the air on the car* until the spring closes the gap btwn, it and the top mount, then turn it 1 or 2 more turns to get it tight

BTW, you should be able to set it to stock ride height via turning the shock out of the housing enough.
What Alex said ^

A drawing would probably help...

The top part of the strut threads into the bottom part as you'll see when you look at your struts. All you are doing is screwing in (to shorten/lower) or backing out (to lengthen/raise) the two pieces. The top part rotates on the shaft of the strut. You don't have to remove the coilovers to do this. I sprayed a little silicone on the threads and where they go into the strut to make turning them easier. Only attach the wheel with one lug nut until you get the height adjusted - so you can take it off and put it on quickly. Each coil-over has 16 levels of adjustment. Engage using the supplied "tool" down the hole in the top of the strut and turn it slowly. You'll feel the bumps or clicks. Start full counterclockwise (soft) and adjust it by counting the bumps as you turn it. That's how you set the dampening (stiffness).

On the rears...leave your speakers out until you have the right adjustment - where you are happy with the ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
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