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So I was talking to a mechanic and he was thinking that maybe since my engine cant move and no real reason to seize, that the underlying problem might be that the tranny has locked up.

This make any sense to you guys?
 

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I'd get a second opinion on your mechanic diagnosis b... personally, I've never seen (or heard) of that happening <= just basing from prior experience as a mechanic!
 

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FRISCO LEGEND BABY!!!!
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Hmm same here, I never heard a tranny locking up. This one is a toughy!!
 

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FRISCO LEGEND BABY!!!!
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^ Very true. I bet the valves on the motor are all bent up or a piston must've gave up and wedged itself in there. But if you can't crank the motor by hand, then the motor is a dead motor. :(
 

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FRISCO LEGEND BABY!!!!
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So what are you gonna do? Get yourself another motor to swap? I just don't want to see that precious Coupe sell out in pieces. Hope you have a good choice on what to do to it. Goodluck bro.
 

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So I was talking to a mechanic and he was thinking that maybe since my engine cant move and no real reason to seize, that the underlying problem might be that the tranny has locked up.

This make any sense to you guys?
I really doubt it. Even if the gear train in the transmission is somehow locked up, e.g. by two gears being engaged at the same time, the torque convertor will still let the engine turn. That's how a trans lock, used by drag racers, works.

If the torque converter were somehow locked up, the engine should still turn in neutral.

The only real option on this engine is to remove the engine/transmission and separate them. If somehow it is the trans the engine would then turn. Far more likely is that it's an internal engine problem and it will need to be disassembled to see what's wrong.
 

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I'd take the belt covers off the engine and take a look. This might give you some clue as to why your engine is locked up.

I really doubt it's the transmission.
 

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I already did. The belts are loose but not broken.
OK. So maybe it has jumped time and you have piston valve contact keeping it from turning.

I recommend that you remove the camshafts. Then check to see that all the valves are closed. If any are stuck open (valve stem lower than the others)
that valve is bent. If they all close then the crankshaft should now turn.

If the above is what is going on, you might be lucky enough to only need a valve job and new timing belt.
 

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How in the hell do I remove the camshafts?
You should consult the shop manual for details. Basically, remove the upper timing belt covers and other things in the way like the power steering pump, alternator, and other drive belts. Then loosen the timing belt tensioner and take the timing belt off the cam timing pulleys. Remove the valve covers and cam timing pulleys (use a strap wrench to hold the pulleys while you loosen the bolts). Remove the covers behind the cam pulleys. Remove the distributor. Then there is a bearing saddle assembly that comes out and you can lift out the cams (check the shop manual for the order to loosen the bolts). Under the cams there are rocker assemblies and pushrods for the exhaust valves. All the removed parts should be laid out in order so you can reinstall it in the same place.

I will try to post a picture of what it looks like.
 

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Once you've removed the cams you will be able to see the intake valves. To see the exhaust valves you need to remove the lower valve covers.

Note in the picture the crank keyway is not at TDC, it is a bit beyond TDC. This is the correct position to line the cams up with the timing marks. Once the cams are positioned the crankshaft is returned to TDC (keyway straight up).

To replace the timing belt you will need to remove the crank pulley and lower timing cover as well.
 
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