So basically im just looking for a good/decent sounding pair of 10 inch subs and im wondering if i should go with the kicker comp's or the kicker cvr's i can get those relatively cheap so which ones should i go with. also the guy is saying a 300.1 amp the rms on the amp is actually 300 so 150 to each sub would this be good enough?
Cory23
Y not run bridged and parallel? get more sound (bass) out of that.
Im just curious as why you would run stereo to subs?
and for your own clarification....bridged (off the amp) would be a positve of one side (say left channel) and the negative of the other (right channel) and then the parallel circuit woul be the the + of one speaker hooked to the negative of the other and vice versa on the other....thus leaving you only 2 wires left to hook to amp...and then...more BASS!!!
Im just curious as why you would run stereo to subs?
and for your own clarification....bridged (off the amp) would be a positve of one side (say left channel) and the negative of the other (right channel) and then the parallel circuit woul be the the + of one speaker hooked to the negative of the other and vice versa on the other....thus leaving you only 2 wires left to hook to amp...and then...more BASS!!!
I'm just curious as too how loud sub systems need to get nowdays. Back in my day we used to run 80-150W to subs and I could hit 130 db with them. That is only a tad less loud than a jet engine. You could easily hear me front a block or two away. It was more than enough power to keep up with the sound within the car. How loud do you need this subs to go? My last amp was a JL 500/1 and it was too powerful as I had the input gain turn down nearly all the way. It was about 1/4 way up at most. I was running 100W RMS to the midrage speakers as well.
im curious as to who told you that...korrupt1 said:
the only reason why 1 sub is considered mono is because its ONE SPEAKER!
stereo is two....
therefore if you want to run 2 subs independently on a 2 channel amp... you would need 2 inputs...
but since most people who run dual sub configuration go with mono block amps that are rated to power both subs and RMS rating... you therefore only need 1 channel for a mono block amp....
and btw your statement about bridged & parallel wiring = more bass thats false.. running a bridged amp or wiring subs in parallel is only for correct impedance or power matching...
the subs aren't going to say "oooOoOo im bridged to and amp... let me put some more bass out...."
if less wires to the amp equals more power you might as well run your subs wirelessly....
bl420 said:
:yes:
I have 2 15s sealed enclosure run with a 300 rms watt amplifier. and it performs on par with Kenwood's new Excelon 1000 watt amp 12" ported box Memphis subs.
most times it's alot more bass than i need. but the subs can play more. all you need to do is wire it correctly (not saying bridged is going to give you more bass) but wire it so the amp is playing not over or under its rated/reccomended impedance. and you're good.
it's all about quality too. JL amps are bangers, im told, you dont need that much JL to power 2 10s. That 300 JL 300.1 will bang those tens pretty hard.
EDIT:
just for giggles,
i can be heard about 2 blocks away...it's capable of major attention whore SPL.
some subs arent made to be in a ported box...tofusensei said:
like my elemental designs flatcone subs...
well usually you would only invert subs for looks... but added benefits would be protection of the cone... and you wont have to figure woofer displacement when calculating box volume or whatnot...tofusensei said:
btw cooling also..
some cones are just too sexy to be facing inverted... :-D
and as for parallel wiring... it all depends on the capabilities of your amp..
for example a single DVC 4 ohm sub wired in parallel is going to present a 2-ohm load to your amp...
now most amps are stable at 2ohms so thats not a biggy
but a single DVC 2 ohm sub wired in parallel is going to present a 1-ohm load...
and you should only wire it that way if your amp is 1-ohm stable.
I agree. Not only that, you have to be very careful when wiring subs in parallel to a bridged amp. Bridging and amp is effectively putting the 1 and 2 channels in parallel in itself, so if you have that hooked up to a parallel sub configuration, you better make sure that 1) the sub can handle the load in bridged mode, and or 2), the subs nominal impedance is high enough. It's no wonder why there are so many posts about blowing subs. I've never blown out a sub ever in my lifetime.bl420 said:
I have always run this way....since my first car and I was 16 years old. also have a degree in electronics engineering...so I know what does what....but I have NEVER blown a sub...in my life...bl420 said:
as far as why I do it that...thats my way...I prefer it...and on my amps...it does increase my power level. and I prefer having a 2 ohm load....its just me. Its my way..and I am happy with it.
all im trying to say is running your subs in parallel isnt going to give you more bass...korrupt1 said:
as long as your amp is 2 ohm stable and your subs are rated for that output at a 2ohm load then you should be fine...
when selecting subs you should figure out the wiring and power ratings to match the amp beforehand...
dont just go and buy DVC 2 ohm sub matched with your amp at 4 ohms and then decide to switch to parallel because someone told you it gives you more bass.
btw if you need an electronics engineering degree to figure out ohms and parallel and series wiring..... ......
im just playin...korrupt1 said:
nice R1 btw... totally offtopic but i wish i could get the 05 R6
with the way the legend seems to be goin...
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