Ok I managed to get a little bit done on this today and JB Welded the drain lines connectors on the oil pan. I must say I was a bit surprised at how dirty the oil was. I think I will drain the tranny tomorrow since I haven't got the slightest clue what's in it. I also cleaned the oil pan out to free it of gunk and debris from tapping that A$$ (lol)

As you can see in this pic it is a good idea to pull the pan before tapping it so you know where it is going to drain to. the one side is not optimal but I had to work with the length of the braided flex hose I already bought for it.

 

Ok I am finally getting back on track, got a late night delivery

 

so did you drill into the oil pan yourself to tap it?

 

yeah, and why not actually weld?

 

I did and both are excellent questions, Determining factor "cost" and the fact that I do not have cheap access to aluminum welding yet. I will teach myself in time but funds are too tied up to buy a decent welder. It is however quite tight I dont anticipate any issues from the JB weld from this job. Even though I am continuing to fall into deals greater than even I could expect I am spending a great deal of money, some necessary and some in preparation for what I hope this to evolve to.

 

Ok for those who are following even the smallest details these pics are for you.

The silver box (can't remember it's official name off the top of my head has been relaocated to the backside of where it use to be (it's not touching other hoses because it gets warm). The igniter box was relocated to accomodate the piping for the exhaust, it was moved toward the front of the car about 1 1/2' and down a little. and there is also a pic of the additional holes to accomodate the fusebox relocation and the vacuum lines for the gauges

Also note the re-worked power steering hoses changed just a little

Ok so now once the heat shield wrap gets her I can wrap up a few things and in goes the engine

 

damn... good shit! why isnt this thread stickied yet?

 

Ok I had too many other things to do to touh her today but the heatshield wrapping, the Aeromotive FPR, and the -6AN adapters for the RL fuel rail (12mm x1.25) and FPR arrived so this weekend should have some forward progress. The engine will go back in and I will re-tweak the downpipe and have it ready for welding as well as know what length of -6AN hose to get for the fpr.

Honestly the further along I get into this thing I think if given the chance the Volvo turbos may never find there way into the build.

 

looking hella good guy. keep it up

 

Visual forward progress, has been a little bit slow lately because I had to prepare a few things before getting the engine dropped back in like the wiring harness area that goes to the altenator, ignition, and then back to the fuse box, and wrapping the VSS and Power steering lines in Thermo-Tec. But I got her heart dropped back in and am ready to get the flex pipe intergrated into the downpipe setup. Here's a few more pics for those that like pics of minor details nothing big happening yet.

I used some Thermotec to cover the plastic areas around the alternator, and had to cut away a part of the bracket to keep it off the header after Thermotec wrapping the part of the wire harness that would have been in the way of the drivers side header. (the spacing technique is a little ghetto for now)

The wires still have mobility in there and the Thermotec is over corregated tubing too.

Here is a shot of the wrapped lines before I put the engine back in.

Here is a shot of what it looks like behind the power steering pump where the 3" piping will rout out back to the exhaust.

I do still need to shield the Brake pipes on the shock towers but the ABS sensors have been relocated so they're good.

 

Ok I got the flexpipe worked into the plan and ready to be welded. I also now realize part of why this is such a pain staking (is that how you say that?) process, engine out engine in engine out engine in lol, I am getting faster though. Here are some updated pics of how everything should fit.

Another thing I Need to do is find or create the bracket for the throttle cable and sleeve it with heatshield (I need to go through and change the color of all my need to do's so I can see them easier lol.

***Feedback requested***

On a side note I am still debating the whole larger set of turbos I have been looking at a T3/T4 ball bearing option with a 8psi internal wastegate anybody have any thoughts on this. My first thought is is that I wanna run 12-14 psi ultimately so I am not sure that this would be a good idea. I would really like to stay internally wastegated if possible. :dunno:

 

question: why do you need flex pipe where you have it? I would think that one after the merge would do.

 

Excellent question and I do have a flexpipe on standby that goes after the merge. The reason why I have it there is to counter any imperfections in welding for the angles and to relieve some of the stress on the downpipe(s). Plus if I go up in turbo size say to like a T3/T4, 16g or an 18g I am hoping that it will save me from having to re-weld any angles.

 

I thought mine was tight sheesh that blows mine out of the water haha. Good job so far telion.

If your looking into some Garrett turbos let me know which and specifics I'll ask my buddy (dealer) and see if he can get you a deal.

Oh and enjoy running that downpipe Remember that thread where I posted I had a company willing to make them if there was interest believe me you'll be doing that one for awhile. But I think my piping is bigger then yours so it might be a tad easier.

 

Yeah it is a bit of a tight fit in there lol but it will get worked out. I will get some prices from you on turbos once I upgrade. In the meantime you mention you are running an aftermarket inline filter, which one are you running and do you have a pic of how you placed it?

 

I'm running a aeromotive model can't remember one though. It's the one that matched with my afpr fittings. I don't have a pic but its basically we ran a braided line from the tank to the front (need it slightly bigger). So it comes up in stock location and the afpr and filter are all where the charcoal canister used to be and a braided line runs to the RL fuel rails

 

I see, it is run very much like I plan to (basically the same less running braided hose all the way from the tank. I was looking at one from Earls that is also 6AN and am considering it because the OEM setup is very bulky and unattractive.

 

Ok I went and picked up the intake that had to have the piece for the BOV welded to it.

Its getting tight in there lol

Then on the way home I happened to drive by the muffler shop that did my last exhaust setup and asked if they had any scrap 90 or 45 degree bends that I could take. They said "sorry we don't but we do have some 3" pipe that we could put a crush bend in for you for about $15.00?" I was like great let's do it. They made the 45 degree bend for me as I opted for that one(I knew the radius of a 90 degree crush bend would suck and be too large). But then I thought you know I can almost see this other bend in my head pretty well. So I asked if they would make one more bend and change the angle of teh pipe for me just a bit so it would angle back toward the tranny a little showed them where and how I wanted the bend and wah-lah there it was. I got it home and it was damn near perfect. But now I have a bit of a delima that has two parts. The first is the 90 degree bend that will go to the y. and teh second is where in the hell I am I goint to break this down at before I was going to do it right at the 3" merge on the y but now that might not be such a good idea well that's where I am at.

Disregard the PS and VSS lines I may end up relocating them after all
I am up for suggestions I have a few in mind but wanna here your ideas too.

 

oh man... i'd hate to see crush bent pipe on a project like this...

 

Lol me too but for 15.00 it was worth the money to verify that I was seeing all this right. and after seeing it and thinking about it a little more I am going with the solution I just posted, unless a better one comes along

 

I am thinking that I will buy the top pipe and a 45 degree bend to make the bottom pipe.

 

o-ring honda on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Chris

 

o awesome.. can you give us the specs on those cuts? diameters or something and depth? also maybe a part number for the o rings you use. Thanks a lot Chris.

 

valvespring on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Chris

 

The o-ring material is simple mig welding wire. Depth and width of cut would depend on the size mig wire you are using. Any good machine shop could do this for you.

Chris

 

Chris thank you for the pics I almost forgot that I asked

 

Ok I have been looking around and thinking that I really want to go with a set of turbos that will not potentially provide immediate issues and each time I look on (yes) Ebay (on turbo forums I would be flamed but so be it) Icome across one turbo that stands out and seems to fit my needs for now and until I can shell out some real cash. Now on the flip side if anyone can get me a better deal than this for a set of authentic turbos please let me know via PM.

100% Brand New T3/T4 T04E Top Mount Turbo Charger. It's made of high quality material, Cast Housing, Durable. Great for turbo project! This turbo charger is capable of boosting horse power from 150 to 400+ HP. Capable of 15-20 PSI output at peak power performance, journey bearing, can be modified to fit external or internal wastegates.

Compressor Size: Inlet = 3", Style = Blade Type, Inducer = 50.55 MM, Trim = 57

Turbine: T3 Type Turbine Flange, Exducer = 2.25" , Turbine = .64 A.R., Major = 65.2 MM, Minor = 56.06mm, Turbine Blade Type = 11

The other option is having my Garrett 40/60 trim rebuilt and finding its mate and having it rebuilt. At the moment though what I am thinking is get a set of these, run them and see how they do. Then down the road get the T3/T4 Garrett rebuilt hold on to it till I find it's mate and sell the tiny used garretts on Ebay very very soon.

 

Compressor Size: Inlet = 3", Style = Blade Type, Inducer = 50.55 MM, Trim = 57

Turbine: T3 Type Turbine Flange, Exducer = 2.25" , Turbine = .64 A.R., Major = 65.2 MM, Minor = 56.06mm, Turbine Blade Type = 11

The most informative post I've seen on getting turbos on EBay is Ebay users selling junk turbos - Power Adder - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards

Whether they're talking about the same ones or not I couldn't tell you ...

Edit: there's a bit more talk here if you can ignore the shouting match. There's a reason I prefer to spend my time here.