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:confused:
Last week I heard a clinging sound as I pressed the brake pedal and also noticed that the pedal was also creeping all the way down sometimes as if the brakes were losing pressure.
Sure enough, last night after starting the car I pressed the pedal to shift to D and basically I had no braking what so ever, again the pedal went all the way down, plus the car was braking without pressing the pedal.
I took the car to a local mechanic who worked on my car before, and he said that it was the master brake cylinder.So then he tells me that if the pedal did reach all the way down, and I told him that it did.So to my surprise he tells me that I need new calipers, new brake line, new pads besides the cylinder!!When I asked him why I needed other parts, he said that if the calipers were stuck in the brake position, they needed to be replaced, likewise for the pads as they got heated(and these are new pads!!)they would get damaged.
Another words I was thinking of spending aprox. 120 to 150 for a cylinder, now it turns out to be 500 plus!!
Is this mechanic trying to rip me off, or is he being legit??
Tech guys please respond.
Jay
1991 legend sedan

Price acording to mechanics parts dealer:
New master cylinder: $240.00 Brand??
Brake pads (2 front)$70.00 Brand??
Front calipers $110.00
Brake line $35.00
labor $80.00
total:$535.00!!!!
:confused: :confused: :mad: :mad:
 

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Jay,

That sounds fishy. If I were you I'd take it to another place for a second opinion. If you want email me at : [email protected]

I have a trusty mechanic who knows his ****. He's located in Long Island City.

let me know,
Jon
 

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it is possible that if you drove very much while the brake was engaged you could overheat the brakes and hardware....I am sure he was concerned about melting or damaging the rubber seals, hose, etc. These can be inspected for damage and do not need to be replaced automatically. I would ask the reason he wants to do this and ask to inspect the damage he sees. It is a possibility, but remember that during normal braking you get everything pretty hot and these parts are designed for heat. Every watch a LeMans race at night and see the rotors glow when they apply brakes! If he can't give you a good reason for replacement and show you the damage, go somewhere else. I have melted the rubber pistons on rear brakes and took the temper out of the metal when my wife drove with e brake on at hiway speeds for several miles, but the car made a hell of a shaking and smoked the linings...nearly caught on fire...
 

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Hispacura

Please help yourself out by visiting another mechanic.

You need to replace your master cylinder and bleed the system - thats all. The idea of your calipers being stuck in the brake position is the biggest load of crap I have ever heard. Pads heated - *** do you think happens with spirited braking.

KNLNGUS.
 

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I had the creeping down problem, particularly as the brakes got hot. Two different mechanics told me that I needed to replaced the master cylinder, and if that didn't work, the power brake booster.

I replaced the MC and have had no problems.

Bob
 

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Usually only one caliper will "lock up" and overheat and wear the pads all the way down. The problem is that brake pads are sold in sets, you cant just buy pads for one side. Most shops will not replace only one capliper because it is likely that the other side is soon to lock up also and you will be back in 2 months asking for warranty work. Calipers locking up is very possible but not both at the same time. Also it is unusual for the master cylinder and calipers to fail at the same time.

Jetdoc
 

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With a faulty master cylinder the problem is not being able to maintain sufficient pressure. It is excessive pad to rotor contact which creates friction, pad glazing, and fluid boiling. This condition is typically due to having a caliper seize--remaining in contact with the rotor by NOT releasing. With little or no pressure, you have little or no contact. Personally, I believe the info you have been given is suspect. The best way to diagnose is to inspect each pad for glazing. Also, if a caliper was seized ON for any amt of time, I would suspect the hub bearing grease to have liquified and seep past the seal.
 

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I replaced my master cylinder last July after the exact conditions you described occured. I took it to a reliable independent Honda/Acura shop in Denver and all they did was bleed the system and repace the master cylinder. It cost roughly $350.00 for the whole thing.

I'd get another opinion if Iwere you
 
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