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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My master cylinder has also started to fail along with everything else, so I mine as well replace that too. My question. Is it acceptable to buy a cheaper aftermarket one, rather than an OEM one? Is the life of the thing still there with aftermarket? Also, where is the cheapest place to buy one? Thanx..
 

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Mckenzie91 - Goodness. When it rains.... eh?

Good news is that my sweetie is parked, pending this weekend so that I may install my A1 Cardonne (aftermarket) Master Cylinder. I just pray to the lord that when I remove the master cylinder that I do not find fluid on the lip of the Booster. Please pray or wish the best for me.

Try Autopartsgiant.com or Rockauto.com or your local Napa or something. My Cardonne says Nippon (Denso) stamped on it. So here is what happens... You buy a "Wagner" , "A1 Cardonne" , "Bendix" , "EIS" , "Beck Arnley" remanufactured unit which is a rebuild of an OE unit that came off someone's elses car.

Some people will say they only trust new parts when it comes to brakes (any component that works independent, together or in whole to stop the vehicle) , others will say they only trust a dealer to work on brakes (ergo, see previous parenthesis). I say, an aftermarket works just fine. They rebuild them with new internals. New vs rebuild can amount to a difference of $150.00 and I'm not talking about dealer prices/ OE stuff bought at a dealer..

A good indication of a master cylinder that is about to fail is visible fluid leakage on the face of the booster which can become present without the immediate feel of pressure loss on the pedal and of course slight loss of pressure on the pedal early on.

Aftermarket rebuild = $50.00 - $75.00 with a $25 - $35 core
Aftermarket NEW = $150.00 - $200.00 without a core charge

Gotta Jet.

KNLNGUS

Anyone replace a Master Cylinder w/ brake fluild visible on the lip of the Booster and NOT have a problem with the braking system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanx W.

My pedal just goes to the floor sometimes, and last night it did for like 5 minutes straight. But is has not done that for like 2 months. My mechanic said that if it was just air, it would do it all the time. As for the leakage, I cannot see anything

Acura wants $385 CDN for a new master cylinder. 1 year warr.
I can get a rebuilt Cordonne for $115 + $45 core charge with 1 year. warr.
I can get a fenco $108 +$55 core charge.
And Napa wants $116+ 60 for theirs.

I wish you luck on your repair. gotta jet.:)
 

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My brakes lost pressure last friday. It was fine after that (the next day. I never restarted the car that day (travelling on highway). Is there something electrical causing brake pressure to go wierd?
 

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2acurafreaks, what you are experiencing is the first indication that your master cylinder is about to fail. This is a very serious problem (not to be neglected). Ensure that you do not have any junk (maps, phones, etc) blocking your ready access to the e-brake. You could be driving normally, pull up to a stop sign, have your MC hit the floor as you drive into the back-end of a vehicle. Its just that simple.

Provided that your brakes do not feel spongy, have never experienced this loss of pressure before, loss of pressure is intermittent and/or can be restored via pumping on the brake pedal... the seals on your MC are failing.

Replace as soon as possible.
 

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I just did this last weekend with an A1 Cardone master cylinder. It appears to be working great, and I'm not really worried about it not lasting as long as an OEM Honda one, because it is a OEM Honda one. They are just remanufactured. They basically just fix what is broken and worn. It also comes with a Lifetime Warranty, and it's not that hard to change out if it does go bad again.
 

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Is this something that is expensive for the dealer to do?
Is it straight forward enough for me to do it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I think the booktime is 1 or 1.5 hours. You may be able to do a search on the topic and find some pointers on how to do it..... its not a big repair....
 

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If you can change brakes then this is easy to do. You basically just undo the two lines to the master cylinder, undo the two bolts holding it on, disconnect the 2 electrical line thingys, then remove it. unscrew the two screws holding the resevoir on, put the old resevoir on the new master cylinder, put new fluid in without the filter in, bench bleed it (push on the metal rod thing while it's in a vice and keep doing it till there are no more air bubbles), then put the filter and cap back on, reattach to car, bleed the breaks to get all the fluid through. When bleeding on the legend you do the passenger rear, then drivers front, then driver rear, then passenger front. To bleed the brakes you just take off the wheel, have a friend press 3 times on the brakes and hold, then you turn the bleeder nut and fluid comes out, then you tighten the nut again, and your friend releases the brake pedal, then you do it again and again and again. I recommend attaching a rubber hose to the end of the bleeder thing while doing this and draining into a bucket. Keep in mind that brake fluid is very harmful to paint, so have some brake cleaner handy.
 

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Just to clear something up... the torque spec on the two nuts that secure the MC to the booster is 14lbs - and the bleeder bolts are 8lbs. Depending upon how many times they have been loosend and tightend... additional torque may be required.

Also... it is not necessary to remove the wheel to bleed the system. Just place your closed ended 10mm wrench on the bleeder bolt, attach the hose to the bleeder bolt so that it travels straight upwards and then back down into a catch can. If you are bleeding the system using the new MC then it is a very very good idea to place a brick under the brake pedal so that your assistant DOES NOT allow the pedal to travel to the floor when you open the bleeder bolt.

Good luck.

and like SpeedDemon said... bench bleed the MC!
 

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Thanks guys!!

Since this car is very new to me (only owned civics+crxs) I'm not as familiar with it. My car does have abs, I'm not sure if that makes any difference, but how can I be sure that once I replace my MS that brake failure won't happen again? If it did, is there another component that if failed would cause the same type of problem?

Thanks again for all your valued information/knowledge!
 

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As with any component that contains rubber seals... there is no true garauntee. The part may have a warranty (should it go bad) but that doesn't mean squak when you have to perform emergency action to avoid an accident. If you loose pressure at the pedal - it is no other component than the MC - unless you have a brake line that is leaking.

Think of your ABS system as an open system... until it receive signal from the wheel sensor. The system then pressurizes the lines.
 

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I just had to replace my MC - I got an aftermarket one for $120 shipped to my door (can't remember where), and another $125 to install it from my favorite local shop. Not bad, considering that Acura wanted over $350 plus tax to do the same with OEM parts.

Kendal
 

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While what is most important is your own belief that you saved money (and you indeed did) BUT... a buck twenty... POW! Sock it to me sock it to me sock it me - I have the idea of $65.00 for a rebuilt MC and I know that I only charge 15 for the swap (installed to torque spec, system bleed). The job is just so easy is a joke.
 

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Just to follow-up...

I installed my remanufactured lifetime warrantee master cylinder and wah-lah. Firm brakes!

Thanks to you guys for your knowledge and time to help me out. I sincerely appreciate it.

:bowdown:
 
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