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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, it happened to me just yesterday.
Getting on the HWY and had the windows down, when I when to put then up a bit, the passenger side would not go.
The master switch was "wobbling" and I knew I had just goined the rest of you who this happen to.

Today after I got in running some errands, I pulled off the DS door panel and removed the switch.

Funny, I thought that this was going to be a costly repair, but in about an hour I had it fixed.
The plastic that held the switch was broken and there was no way to repair it.

The plastic part holds the switch in place and allows it to tee-ter on the metal (switch) under it.

To repair it, I got out my jewlers' screw drivers. Place the switch part in to the housing. Tried to turn it on on off a few times to make sure that it was working and it was moving freely.
Basically drilled a hole thru the hosing and thru the white part of the switch (with the screw drivers).
Used a small length of a paper clip to bind it together, bent the ends to keep the paperclip in place. That's it.
I can garantee (99%) that this will never break again.

If anyone in the TO area has a boken switch, I'd be more than happy to lend a hand in repairing it. You just gotta get it off the door first. :D
 

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Damm i wish i was closer to you so you could help fix mine. the same thing happened to me the master switch broke off and now i have to stick a bent paper clip in where the switch was and touch the two metal contacts in there and at the same time choose witch windo to roll UP/DOWN this is really starting to get on my nerves its kinda imbarasing too when I have girls in my car and i pull out this paper clip and start stickin it in the master switch and at the same time trying to drive I didnt really under stand how you fixed yours but do you think sodering the paper clip on the two contact would work :D :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Frist off, if you have all the parts, you should be able to fix it. Mine broke and I took some tape and taped the switch inplace until today, when I took it apart and fixed it.

Yeah, you could solder it so it is always ON, but you'll have to get a soldering iron with a mighty thin tip.
You could possibly add a different switch, but that may take away from the look.

You could also jamm some tin foil in the opening, like another member suggested.;)
 

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Hey dudes,

I'm just curious ... do you use you master switch a lot? I mean, how is it that these break all the time, unless you're constantly playing with it? I don't think I've ever used my master switch. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No, don't (and didn't) use it much.

If you take apart your switch, you can see where and why it will eventually break.

It's just a thin piece of plastic holding the switch.
That piece of pastic is where the switch pivots.

If you grabbed the switch with your fingers (thumb and index) you could pull it right off (ie break the thin plastic).
Just saying that it doesn't take much to break it - not telling anyone to do this. :D
 

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Step back Spiff - *** - your suggestion sounds **** good! I was (on sunday) going to fix my broken switch with the foil post but I like your idea much better.

Here are my question.

I will assume that he plastics on the door assembly is soft but the switch will be more dense. You must have had some small no scratch that tiny screw drivers to actually get through the material.

Second and MOST IMPORTANT. My skirt broke the switch and only gave me back the switch. Are there any other components that exist between the on/off switch and the switch housing (i.e. springs, clips, etc.) cause all I have is the switch which look like a T (basically) and then the socket (that has the metal contact strip inside)

KNLNGUS
 

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mine broke a few months ago and I've just been wiggling the metal contact piece w/ a small screwdriver when it stops working, but now the metal contact has come off.

So now I have -the actual button (that you would actually push)
and - the metal connector that was inside (it has now fallen off)

What can be done here? will it help to remove the door panel.

If so, how hard is it to do this?
If I can figure this whole fiasco out, I'll post pictures of how to repair it. (but first I'll need help figuring out how to remove the door panel)

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
jedmund1: Sorry, I don't have a digital camera.
I'll see if I can do something in Corel Draw for you.

KNLNGUS: You should have the switch which looks like a T, the metal strip inside the housing that will complete the circuit.
Make sure on the "T" that you have a small cylinder type part that fits in the T and fits against the small spring in the T.
It sounds like you have all the pieces.

"You must have had some small no scratch that tiny screw drivers to actually get through the material." - Sorry, can't figure out what you're asking here.

The T part of the switch was thicker, just took a little longer to drill thru (pretty soft plastic).

One thing about my fix that I forgot to mention.
You need to press the switch against the metal strip and continue to keep up the pressure while you are drilling.

I was in Home Depot today and saw that they had very small drill bits there. You could use one of these. Turn it by hand, as you want to have some control. A Dremel tool may ruin your switch if to slip for some reason.

TypeIICoupe: You will have to remove the door panel and then remove the whole switch.
To remove the door panel, there are 4 screws to come out.
2 are behind the plastic cover (just behind) the door handle. Use a small straight screw driver to remove the cover and a philips screw driver to remove the screws.
1 is in the arm rest on the door. You need to remove the plug (amost in the centre) of the door, if you are looking down at it.
The last one is at the top right of the door (door need to be open for access). Remove the plug and remove the philips screw.

You must be careful here or you may cause some damage that may not be readily fixed. There is wiring here that you don't want to break.

To remove the door panel, pull from the bottom to "pop" out all the clips all the way around the inner panel. The door should only be held on now by the top part that is inside the frame of the door (basically, it hangs on to the inner part of the door).
I found that pulling up from the back of the door panel was easiest to remove the panel.
ie from the side where the lock is (not the door handle).
Once the inner panel is free, pull it slightly out away from the door and unplug the clips for the whole window/mirror switch. You may have to disconnect more that just the above to get access to the switch.
Use a philips to remove the bracket holding the switch and take it inside and perform your magic.

That's basically it. (It's late, so if I forgot something, I'll fix it when I get up) :eek:
 

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Since mine had broken months ago, I'd been using paper clips to move the switch when it broke. However, this last time it broke for good.
To fix it I ended up taking a piece of thick copper wire and folding it into a V shape. I put one end on one of the contact points, and the other on the other. I then tested it and YES the windows worked agan. I then removed the white plastic from the switch and put the switch back over the V wire to hold the wire to the contact points. From time to time now, I'll have to push the switch down in order to get it to work...any suggestions how to make this better?
(Sorry about the long post)
 
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