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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, I just recieved the MLS copy strut bar. First off, from the contruction and looks, it is first rate. The welds are perfect, and the finish is flawless aside from a few scuff marks from the packaging. However, while installing it on my 93 LS Coupe, I've noticed a few things. First, it is not a direct fit. It is close, but you have to remove one of the trottle cable brakets and one wire connector harness to allow room for the base plate of the strut bar to fit. This is no real big deal. My problem was that after I installed it, I couldn't close my hood. At first, I just though it was lightly touching the under hood fiberglass insulation, so I figured I'd just press harder. Unfortunately, I still coildn't get the hood to latch, and I could see my hood flexing under the pressure. I had to go to work, so I just left it as it and will work on it later.

My question is to those with the real MLS strut bar and with the copy bars. How did you guy install it? Did you guys have to remove your under hood insulation? Those with the real MLS bar, did you guys have to remove the trottle cable bracket that bolts to the side of the drivers side strut tower, and did you have to unclip that connector right beside it?
 

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Junior Mint
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I had to remove that bracket. Like you said, no big deal. I didn't have to disconnect anything.

My hood closes fine. Didn't remove the lining.

This is with the real MLS. But someone else posted having similar probs with the real one (hood not closing).

Did you move the AC lines aside?
 

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no problem here as well... All I had to do is to remove the bracket like you mentioned.... However, both EK and I are sedans while yours is a coupe, maybe we should wait and hear what other coupe owners say??
 

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Blo had the same problem as you did with the real MLS bar. Maybe you can contact him, I don't know if he fix the problem or not. Here is his post
 

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My hood still doesnt line up. There is a little buldge in the center.:mad: Sedan:mad:
 

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GS Hog
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Chris,

Could you measure the distance between the top of the bar and the top of the manifold and let me know?

akleg4life,

Only a few were ready last week and were shipped out. The rest should be done very soon though.
 

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hey chris, i'm installing mine today. i'll let you know.
also, can you tak a look at my bumper removal thread? any ideas? thanx.
-j
 

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0000$$$$0000####0000
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
LegendGS said:
Chris,

Could you measure the distance between the top of the bar and the top of the manifold and let me know?

akleg4life,

Only a few were ready last week and were shipped out. The rest should be done very soon though.
The front bar is 1 1/4, and the back bar is 1 3/8. I'm assuming the two bars are low perfectly level, and the back bar is supposed to be slighty above the front bar right. I can get the hood to close, but you can definately see the hood is bulging. I'm pretty sure it is the rear bar that is the problem. I haven't tried removing the fiberglass insulation yet, and I'll do that as soon as I get home from school and see how that works. It feels like I need about 1/8" to 3/16" more clearence. Other than that, they did a very nice job on the construction and the finish. I have an idea to fix it if I have to, but that would mean I need to find a metal shop that can modify, or make me a new base plate. But we will wait and see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Also, the entire bar could have been set much lower to the manifold than what it is. At least on my car, there is more than 1" of clearence from the manifold. The lowest point of the bar is 1 9/16" from the manifold.
 

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0000$$$$0000####0000
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
akleg4life said:
So does this mean back to the drawing board !
Not yet. Remember, people have posted that the real MLS bar did the same thing on a few owners cars as well. I believe the shop did a perfect job of making a replica, but there is something in the original MLS bar that might have been made too close, so given little variation in the way each car is assembled, that could be the factor.
 

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Good news and bad news.

Good news is that the strut tower bars have been completed. Bad news is that due to ChrisK's fitment issue, we double checked fitment at the fabricator today and found that the fitment issue seems varied. It is suspected to be due to the heating process when powder coating.

At this time, three strut bars have been shipped. The rest will be on hold until we work out all fitment issues. We apologize for the delay, and will try to resolve the issue promptly.

As for the three that have been shipped, if you are experiencing problems with the fitment, you may send the bars back to us. The return address is,

Impact Record Pool, Inc.
4055 McClung Drive
Los Angeles, California 90008-2658
Attn: Fut

If necessary, we will absorb the cost of shipping.

We apologize for the inconvenience. We are working to resolve this asap. If you have further concerns or questions, please feel free to ask either here, or by email to myself or Graeme.

We would also like to see if there is a G2 Coupe in the L.A. area who can volunteer his/her car for a few hours for fitment testing. Again, please email me or Graeme if you can do this. Thanks!

One...

Fut
 

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0000$$$$0000####0000
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hey, no problem. Let's all work together to make this a viable source for strut bars in teh future. Might as well get all the kinks worked out now :) Anyway, I sure you guys will figure it out, but if you guys to have to refabriocate the stru bar, might I suggest you lower the height about 1/2" or 3/4", as I have well over 1" clearance between the manifold and the lowest part of the bar. Unless it wasn't supposed to be that way and that is the fitment issue you are talking about. Anyway, I'll get mine packed up in the box it came in and I'll send it back.

By the way, just for my bar, when you do send it back, if you guys want to save on cost, you don't have to poweder coat or put a nice finish on the bar. I plan on paiting it to match the rest of the painted items under my hood anyway, so having a simple primmer will be more then fine with me.

Also, as for me, I'm in no rush so take whatever time you guys need. :)
 

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ChrisK said:
Hey, no problem. Let's all work together to make this a viable source for strut bars in teh future. Might as well get all the kinks worked out now :) Anyway, I sure you guys will figure it out, but if you guys to have to refabriocate the stru bar, might I suggest you lower the height about 1/2" or 3/4", as I have well over 1" clearance between the manifold and the lowest part of the bar. Unless it wasn't supposed to be that way and that is the fitment issue you are talking about. Anyway, I'll get mine packed up in the box it came in and I'll send it back.

By the way, just for my bar, when you do send it back, if you guys want to save on cost, you don't have to poweder coat or put a nice finish on the bar. I plan on paiting it to match the rest of the painted items under my hood anyway, so having a simple primmer will be more then fine with me.

Also, as for me, I'm in no rush so take whatever time you guys need. :)
Thanks for your understanding Chris. We'll get that info to the fabricator and do our best to turn it around asap.

One...

Fut
 

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i'm gonna be putting in my bar tomorrow. i'll let you know. if i have the same problem, i'll ship it off to you guys. thanx.

-j
 

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Junior Mint
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You know, I don't have access to my car right now (still in IL), but I think that I have less than 1" clearance over the manifold. I can check after I get to LA, which is tomorrow. Woohoo! Finally leaving IL.
 

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welcome back:D
 

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aiznpride said:
i'm gonna be putting in my bar tomorrow. i'll let you know. if i have the same problem, i'll ship it off to you guys. thanx.

-j
Do that and let us know.

One...

Fut
 
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