In he case of the alternater being bad, I am trying to find out if the ECU and TCU on 1990 L sedan is reactive to voltages less than 12.5... as I have just found & fixed mine after it would only do 12.8@3000 rpm and at city type driving it was only putting out about 12.2...battery still held up but i have heard that this condition can upset the system performance by staying in open loop till it passes 12.4Volts...and it can affect other parts of the electrical.... relays and senser readings...anyone know about this????????

 

Leo, I remember seeing that low voltages can throw out sensor inputs.
Try this site for a good explanation on how PGM-FI works. It'll make you understand what is really going on under the hood.

http://www.keast.com/slugman/automobile.html

 

CLEAN YOUR GROUNDS!!!! I just got done cleaning my ground wires and ran on my "test" track. I gained 5mph on a sprint. It's through a intersection and up the street, maybe 30 ft. I got up to 35mph before and now am at 40mph. All you have to do is find your stock grounds and clean them. There is one on the tranny, the starter, the front valve cover, the intake manifold and I believe that's it. Have fun!

 

Hey, guys whats up im new here. Gonna get pics of my Legend up soon By the way I have a 1988 Legend Sedan L (MT) and my gas light works purfect.

 

NEW ALTERNATOR

I just got my legend fixed because battery and alb lights , when when I backed into the garage the radio died,, and then the car slowly died,,
right after a brand new alternator...

explain that one pls

ps: new battery in there too

"pyros88legendcoupe".......You are correct, the ALB light and battery light being on indicates alternator failing, i was on my way home from a Maryland Terps Football game when my car died on I-495 west, actually I stoped cause it was nightime and i had no lights, had to leave on the side of the road with windows down. Luckily upon return the next morning nothing was stolen..I believe my system that was installed contributed to the resulting failure.

 

just give up and get a new legend. I hear when that happens, it means too much gas has gone into the engine, and at the next startup, it might explode. Good Luck.

 

EXPLODE!

What the heck are you talking about explode!?!?

if your trying to be funny its not working man.,.

I thought this was a question and answer forum

thanx but no thanx bud

Blk88legend

 

chances are you have a bad ground, or maybe some wirring, thats what i think. What other reason would there be if you can't turn on your radio. Maybe a fuse, a batter post could have touched the vehicle. Well, these are my suggestions. Hope im right, if i am , i'm invincible.


:bowdown: to nemesis

 

SUCESS

WEll the dealership towed it back and told me the new alternator fried,, so they replaced it..

free of charge..

Now everything works good and no more idiot lights either

another satisfied customer..

anyone wanna buy it?

blk88legend

Ps: thanx for the reply mr nemesis2003

 

NP. I was pretty close though, i figured it had to be something electrical. Im victorious.

:bowdown: nemesis

 

quote
[4. Tighten the kickdown cable (auto trans) to have the trans hold out gears and not cancel as much power.]

Where do I find that and how do I do that?

Ryan

 

How can I get more horse-power out of my 92 legend sadan and keep the same stock look.

 

the fuel pump on sedans is located in the trunk, close to the back seats.

 

:bowdown:
Thank you- the bit about the magnetic drain plug, the exhaust not doing s**t, and the Honda radiator fluid reference I found very helpful.

 

Everything has a downside:

-Tuning a car any more than bolt ons will have tons of issues. See: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=683477

-Intake and exaust make the car better in the upper end and less in the low end. If they don't then they make the car too loud for normal people.

-CAIs are too loud and odd sounding for normal people, like your grandparents. It's a luxury car right? It's also a liability to them if you suck up water and destroy your engine.

-Dropping makes the ride worse, no matter how good your suspention. You can have an adjustable roll center and fully controlable suspention components but the springs and dampners have to be stiff to keep a lower car off the ground.

-Only a few people like body kits and Altezza lights, and even less have your favorite as their favorite.

-Lightened flywheels make your car harder to drive. It has less inertia so the clutch control has to be near perfect.

-Stronger clutches require more control as well.

-Sway bars(roll bars) make the ride jarring over uneaven left to right surfaces.

-Strut tower bars make the car too twitchy for many people, and can cause the car to loose it's safer understeer balance.

-Big rims make the car twitchy at the limits, reduce snow traction, and wet traction. The overall car gets worse.

-Big rims also raise the unsprung weight, making the car uncomfortable.

-Wide tires reduce gas mileage and stability in low traction conditions.

-Gimmick spark plugs (Splitfire, Bosch Platinum4+, etc.) only last longer at the stock power. Replacing worn spark plugs raise power anyway.

-Hyper-Ground and MSD are cost prohibitive, and may not really raise the hp b/c you replace the above when you install it.

-NOS kills your engine like steroids and is horrible for the environment. The remaining NOx destroys your cat. I've heard that they don't mess up your cat and I can prove to you with logic it's a lie: Your putting more Nitrogen and Oxygen in the chamber so you can burn more fuel. There WILL be extra NOx from ambient Nitrogen combining with the oxygen instead of carbon combining. In any case, more fuel burned means more bad gasses, period.

-Turbos require a lot of engineering knowledge, destroy the engine the same as NOS, and are very cost prohibitive to the manufacturer. The same T3 has been used in almost every factory turbo, with only slight modifications.

-Blocking the reduces emissions considerably and the manufacturer would be fined for this.

-Neon breaks very easily.

-Alarms, shaved locks, shaved doors, etc. are really useless and make getting in a car with a full load of groceries that much harder.

-Stripped interiors are just ugly.

-Carbon fiber is very, VERY cost prohibitive.

-In Dash receivers are cost prohibitive, the manufacturer can make much more money by making their own stereo.

-Subs use power and all the controlls to keep the power up are cost prohibitive and bulky.

-Everything that gives you performance reduces gas mileage and/or costs a lot and/or is hard to maintain.

-Everything, and I mean EVERYTHING, has a downside. Just ask me and I'll probably have a downside to it (not to be all pessimistic and all).

There is a reason for the factory not putting on that nice looking strut tower bar for you! If it was an overall good idea then they would have it on all their vehicles. They don't want to make a slow car. They want to make it an efficient car, comfortable car, reasonably priced car, easy-to-drive car, etc.

EDIT:

OH yea!! I forgot!!

-Big brake kits are cost prohibitive and usually too big for the factory wheel size.

-Drilled and/or slotted rotors can break when in cold, wet climates.

-Steel brake lines are cost prohibitive.

and LBNL:

-Racing pads are a nightmare b/c they have to be at a proper operating temperature to work well. When cold they are MUCH worse than stock.

I'm not saying don't do it, by all means. I am happily modding my car, and I hope the rest of you are too. This is just so you know what your getting yourself into... Newtonian Physics aply to tuners just as much as Murphey's Law.

 

What a bunch of crap..

I can't believe I just read through all these pages and havent been able to find EVEN ONE PERFORMANCE TIP... what a joke... could you tell me how to advance/retard the timing on the old legends? or what plugs to use to run a 175HP NOS wet shot? or how to make a tool to remove/install the valve springs on legen heands? or how to make the 2.7 rumble like a cammed V8? or how to install a supercharger by reversing the intake? or how to put high compression pistons on a 2.7 without custom ordering them? Or how to fix the front motor mount and make it solid? or how to swap the legend onto any other honda chassis?

Please, don't call it performance tips...call it "how to change your oil" tips"

 

I can't believe I just read through all these pages and havent been able to find EVEN ONE PERFORMANCE TIP... what a joke... could you tell me how to advance/retard the timing on the old legends? or what plugs to use to run a 175HP NOS wet shot? or how to make a tool to remove/install the valve springs on legen heands? or how to make the 2.7 rumble like a cammed V8? or how to install a supercharger by reversing the intake? or how to put high compression pistons on a 2.7 without custom ordering them? Or how to fix the front motor mount and make it solid? or how to swap the legend onto any other honda chassis?

Please, don't call it performance tips...call it "how to change your oil" tips"

Please realize that you have a Legend, not a Civic. If you wanted aftermarket support, you should have just gotten a civic or teg instead. As far as internals, NOBODY, and I do mean NOBODYmakes it for the Legend, ESPICALLY A G1. If you don't like it, then get the hell out.

 

I can't believe I just read through all these pages and havent been able to find EVEN ONE PERFORMANCE TIP...

Your knowledege of motors seems to be much more advance than our simple Legend minds can handle. I'm quite sure your wisdom would be welcome elsewhere, it's not here. Please leave. And one'mo thang, don't come back!!!

One...

Fut :2cool:

 

some ppl have very big issues of not respecting others as a civilized person would, those ppl shouldn't be here on our friendly community, or even any other forum.

 

Legend

LOL it all has to be custom My R33 Body Kit from an Accord makes the Legend Look like a Skyline, I am soon doing an R33 tail coversion and verticle doors. Everyone STOP putting the Legend into one category (Luxury) My car with it's JDM Engine and soon to happen 5 Speed Swap will Tear up cars at the track. :eek2:

 

LOL it all has to be custom My R33 Body Kit from an Accord makes the Legend Look like a Skyline, I am soon doing an R33 tail coversion and verticle doors. Everyone STOP putting the Legend into one category (Luxury) My car with it's JDM Engine and soon to happen 5 Speed Swap will Tear up cars at the track. :eek2:

What did it take to make the Accord body kit, specifically the front bumper cap, fit on the G1? Been thinking about trying this or just modifying the original bumper (lots of work and substantial $$). What year Accord parts/kit did you use? I have a 93 Accord also but haven't taken the front bumper off of it (yet) to see how close the fit is to one of my G1 Legends.

 

Please realize that you have a Legend, not a Civic. If you wanted aftermarket support, you should have just gotten a civic or teg instead. As far as internals, NOBODY, and I do mean NOBODYmakes it for the Legend, ESPICALLY A G1. If you don't like it, then get the hell out.

Wow, so narrow minded, I'm amused. Listen, Honda itself makes more parts for the legend than you think, you just don't have the guts or the brains to try them.

If you don't know it..(of course you don't) H22 pistons will fit on a legend and will give you close to 11:1 compression ratio.
Putting heavy duty valve springs? Just get a set of exhaust inner spring from any junkyard and place them inside the intake springs.

What other internals are you looking for? Cause the crankshaft is forged steel, if you replace that you are wasting your money. The rods are very good quality steel, just need to balance them to get a little bit more rpm.
Ohhh and honda makes titanium rods for you...and crower, and any other aftermarket company makes them.

What other internals could you possibly want?

The pistons can be ordered for an H22 with low or high compression from JE and will cost you the same just add 2 pistons, no big deal. Same price as everyone else, just two more...but of course, YOU would have to order them custom made because you don't know better.

Tell me what other internal part you want and I'll let you know how to get it. Cams? crower, custom made just like any other car out there. Relatively same price.

And yes, I have a civic...and yes, it has a legend motor inside...and no..I'm not getting the hell out.

Let me know if you figured how to advance/retard the timing already.

 

If you really want to, a bunch of parts from the NSX should fit into our blocks. I would think that if you just bore &/or stroke it out to 3L and throw in some NSX pistons and rods, you'll have a low-tech version of a NSX engine. Someone tell me if it won't work... Honda has tons of pure racing research in the C30 and C32 and much can be adapted to the C25 and C27 in the Legend.

And timing can be done by a little screw in the vaccum control box. Drill out some rivets and turn it a bit. I found it a little while ago in this very forum... Search for timing or something like that...

 

If you really want to, a bunch of parts from the NSX should fit into our blocks. I would think that if you just bore &/or stroke it out to 3L and throw in some NSX pistons and rods, you'll have a low-tech version of a NSX engine. Someone tell me if it won't work... Honda has tons of pure racing research in the C30 and C32 and much can be adapted to the C25 and C27 in the Legend.

And timing can be done by a little screw in the vaccum control box. Drill out some rivets and turn it a bit. I found it a little while ago in this very forum... Search for timing or something like that...

Yea, watch out when I come back w/ a revival of the G1. Muahahahahaha.

 

my fuel light works... but it DOES kick on kinda late... at about .25 gallons in my tank... lol...

 

Wow, so narrow minded, I'm amused. Listen, Honda itself makes more parts for the legend than you think, you just don't have the guts or the brains to try them.

If you don't know it..(of course you don't) H22 pistons will fit on a legend and will give you close to 11:1 compression ratio.
Putting heavy duty valve springs? Just get a set of exhaust inner spring from any junkyard and place them inside the intake springs.

What other internals are you looking for? Cause the crankshaft is forged steel, if you replace that you are wasting your money. The rods are very good quality steel, just need to balance them to get a little bit more rpm.
Ohhh and honda makes titanium rods for you...and crower, and any other aftermarket company makes them.

What other internals could you possibly want?

The pistons can be ordered for an H22 with low or high compression from JE and will cost you the same just add 2 pistons, no big deal. Same price as everyone else, just two more...but of course, YOU would have to order them custom made because you don't know better.

Tell me what other internal part you want and I'll let you know how to get it. Cams? crower, custom made just like any other car out there. Relatively same price.

And yes, I have a civic...and yes, it has a legend motor inside...and no..I'm not getting the hell out.

Let me know if you figured how to advance/retard the timing already.

nicely put.. but one question... how are u gonna find h22 internals at a junkyard... like finding a poor pimp.. thanks for the info though