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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so I was sitting in my car on Friday with the Ac running turn it off went in the building for about 5 minutes came back out and started the car I turned the key it turned over then cut off about twice then it started and ran fine, so I thought nothing else of it. Then on Sunday the same thing happened except it only took one time to cut on But when it did cut on I notice as I was driving the seatbelt light and the clock keep dimming in and out. And finally Monday morning I went to crank it up and it wont turn and cut off immediately no matter what so I left it and went online, when I came back about 3 hours later it started right up. Some people were have the same problem as me, so it said they changed the fuel main relay so I did that just to be safe spark plug gas filter etc... Its was fine for the rest of Monday and no problem Tuesday at all. This morning I went out there and turned the key and it cut off so I turned it and gas it, it stayed running so I drove it and after about 15 minutes I noticed the seatbelt light get dime and the radio and clock did the same then all of a sudden the speedometer and tacometer begin to jump all over the place but the car never cut off then I arrived at work and cut it off and tried to turn it back on and nothing gasing it didnt even work this time. Funny thing is I thought that when I go to II when turning the ignition I should see dash light but I dont see them until III I could be wrong. I dont know if it the batery, alternator, or fuel pump or niether of theys anybody ever experience the same problems.
 

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Sounds like the electrical portion on the ignition switch is bad. I wasn't sure if they sold it seperately, but PSA on the other Legned forums said they do.

But again, this is just a suggestion, as diagnosing a car without actually seeing it is a bit difficult.
 

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Often the car will actuall start, but then die as soon as you release the key from the start position. Other times, you will be driving, then the car will sudenly die and the all the dashlights will go out, then suddenly restart and the dashlights come back on. The dimming of the dash lights (If it really is the IGN switch) is because the switch is not getting full voltage at times. If it is the switch, what is happening is the IGN position is going bad. The IGN switch has many different positions as you know. The ACC, the IGN, IGN2/HVAC position on some cars, and the Start position. Most of the time the IGN portion of the switch goes bad since that is where the switch rests 100% of the time after starting and gets the most use.

You are supposed to see the dash lights light up when the IGN switch is set to the II position. This is the IGN position that I talk about above. For reference, the I position is the ACC, and the III is the start position that I talked about above.

But, this might just something to look into. I wouldn't suggest you go out and buy a new switch until you confirm it is or is not your problem.
 

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From what you describe, I think the problem is with the battery and/or alternator. The dimming lights tells me that the battery is weak and not getting charged from the alternator. If it fails to start and then starts after a period of time, that is an indication of a weak battery. After the battery is drained during the start attempt, it will recover somewhat and may be able to start it later. Check your alternator belt.
 

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CWA-94GS said:
From what you describe, I think the problem is with the battery and/or alternator. The dimming lights tells me that the battery is weak and not getting charged from the alternator. If it fails to start and then starts after a period of time, that is an indication of a weak battery. After the battery is drained during the start attempt, it will recover somewhat and may be able to start it later. Check your alternator belt.
Makes sense, but why would he get no dash lights in position II, but dash lights in position III? I figure if it was a bad battery or alternator (which I believe it very well could be as well) the lights would either be on or off in both positions.

Anyway, you are on the right track with the alternator. As I read your post I rememberd an incident similar to this where it turned out to be a bad alternator. Anyway, keep us posted with more details about your situation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
But I measured the battery the other day because I thought it might be that and it read 12.38 on the volt meter and it still wouldnt start, would this still be the batt or alternator, I thought they wolud be dim before I even start the car in that case
 

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I agree with Chris. Sounds like the ignition switch. If it was the alternator or battery you would be losing your radio codes.
 

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I agree with Chris, it is probably your ignition switch.
Cost $90 CDN from dealer.
The worst part of it is getting the 2 screws back into the switch.

Easy way to test is to put key to III and wiggle around. If NO lights come on or come on and then go off, then it is the switch.

May also be battery/alternator, but you can test that with a multimeter.

The battery is used to start the car, once running, the alternator takes over.
If while the car is running, the instrument panel dims, then the alternator may not be putting out enough power and you are running on your battery.
Battery should be between 11.5-12.5V when the engine is off (well mine is). If the battery is more than 13V, it maybe going south and you will need to get a new one.

When running and RPMs around 1500, then voltage at the terminals should be around 14V (getting power from alternator at this point, so you are really testing alternator voltage, not battery)

Good luck.
 

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You can't judge a battery by measuring the voltage. A 12 volt lantern battery will read 12 volts but it won't start your car. Its the current capability that matters. Try jump starting it and measure the voltage after you start it. It should read about 14 volts ( I think). What led me to believe it was the alternator was the fact that the lights are dimming while he is driving. I guess it could be intermittent contacts on the ignition switch. The ECU stores the radio codes. It is a low power device and I thing the battery would have to be totally dead for the codes to be lost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
HMMM

Hey guys but the funny thing is it seems to turn over and start but then directly cuts off and when this happens there are no dash light or anything everything goes off except the radio
 

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CWA-94GS said:
You can't judge a battery by measuring the voltage. A 12 volt lantern battery will read 12 volts but it won't start your car. Its the current capability that matters. Try jump starting it and measure the voltage after you start it. It should read about 14 volts ( I think). What led me to believe it was the alternator was the fact that the lights are dimming while he is driving. I guess it could be intermittent contacts on the ignition switch. The ECU stores the radio codes. It is a low power device and I thing the battery would have to be totally dead for the codes to be lost.
True, a lantern battery would have a 12V reading, but come on, we're talking about a car here. If the battery reading is less than 11V or higher than 13V, it would lead to the electrical system.
More than 13V, then the alternator is over charging or the battery is bad. Less than 11V, then the battery is bad.

ECU stores the CODE ? How's that ?
I buy a used radio off another member, so do I have to buy the ECU also ?!!?!.

The code is in the radio, can't be in the ECU.
 

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Re: HMMM

2lionel said:
Hey guys but the funny thing is it seems to turn over and start but then directly cuts off
If that is the case, like I mentioned in my other post above, I am definately leaning to the ignition switch. That is what I mentioned happens with a bad ignitions switch in the fist line of my second post :)

By the way, the IGN switch on Honda/Acura cars do go bad. It is pretty much a wear and tear item. That is why I bought a brand new IGN switch off ebay for cheap when it was available so I can have a replacement when mine goes out.
 

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Re: HMMM

2lionel said:
Hey guys but the funny thing is it seems to turn over and start but then directly cuts off and when this happens there are no dash light or anything everything goes off except the radio
Happened exactly like that to me.

It's the ignition switch.

If you hold the key part way between II and III or III and START, the dash lights will come on (as it should). Then when you release the key, it will go out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
OK

I went out side and turned the switch to I then II nothing then III nothing but in III I turnined it more then dash light and it started the car let go no dash and car shut off, so may be the switch but why the dimming when I was driving and how much does these switched run guys I am in Maryland,USA
 

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Re: OK

2lionel said:
I went out side and turned the switch to I then II nothing then III nothing but in III I turnined it more then dash light and it started the car let go no dash and car shut off, so may be the switch but why the dimming when I was driving and how much does these switched run guys I am in Maryland,USA
Go back and read my second post for the answer about the dimming lights and the position II dash lights :) I know it's ealy in the morning (3:29AM where I'm at) :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Dam Chris!!

If what you are saying in your post is true then that definetly my problem hell people were posting so fast that I didnt even see it but that exactly 100% what is giong on now I will have to see what one costs and try it.

I]Quote:Often the car will actuall start, but then die as soon as you release the key from the start position. Other times, you will be driving, then the car will sudenly die and the all the dashlights will go out, then suddenly restart and the dashlights come back on. The dimming of the dash lights (If it really is the IGN switch) is because the switch is not getting full voltage at times. If it is the switch, what is happening is the IGN position is going bad. The IGN switch has many different positions as you know. The ACC, the IGN, IGN2/HVAC position on some cars, and the Start position. Most of the time the IGN portion of the switch goes bad since that is where the switch rests 100% of the time after starting and gets the most use. [/I]
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hey guys any tips on changing this switch, I just found out it is defienetly this switch I hit my remote start which is after the switch and its starts up fine everytime now I have ordered a switch and am aboutto go get it any information was and will be greatly appreaciated this is my first post and you guys hit that nail directly on the head just by my explaining that cool as hell thanks guys but I am in need again
 
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