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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,
In case you do not keep up with the off topic section, I purchased a 1988 L coupe 5spd today. She has 153,000 miles on the odometer and I paid $1,600 for her. Here are the pictures:


Nasty clear coat cancer all over!


I took it directly to Velocity to get it inspected. Between them and myself this is the list of what needs to be fixed:
ABS pump is screaming like a scalded cat
Slow front windons (The drive sticks up and down sometimes)
No movement in the rear windows
Cruise is out (The power light comes on, but it will not set)
Front rotors are warped and it needs pads up front
Valve cover gasket is leaking
One injector seal is leaking
Oil leak at the distributor
Driver side CV axle is toast
Driver door lock actuator (It will unlock but not lock from the button, but I can use the key)
Temp guage stays all the way up when ever car is on

Here is the maintance I plan on doing in addition to the above items:
Spark plugs (copper, titanium, platnium? Brand?)
Spark plug wires (Brand?)
Rotor & cap (Brand?)
Transmission fluid
Oil & Filter (is the NSX filter available? If so what year and engine?)
Clean throttle body
Flush radiator

This is the list of modifications I have in store for the car:
Ram intake
Rotors (Brand?)
Brake pads (Brand?)
SS brake lines (Brand?)
Tint

I hope to learn about the G1 like I have about the G2 and be able to contribute here. I have really fallen for this car in the few hours I have owned it. I plan on keeping this car after I buy my G2.

Later!
Lee
 

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Hope you have patience cause it looks like you have a long list of important issues to get resolved. For $1600 I would have thought you could get a better kept vehicle but 88' manual coupes are getting scarce so its a wash IMO. I love the G1 coupes and yours can become a keeper.

In order of importance...

I would be concerned about the temp gauge pegging when the engine is running. Check fans, thermostat and hoses for blockage or leaks. Compression check to be sure the head gasket is OK.

Next, would be the timing belt/water pump. Any records showing it was replaced recently?

Alternator brushes will need to be replaced soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Mod89Coupe said:
Hope you have patience cause it looks like you have a long list of important issues to get resolved. For $1600 I would have thought you could get a better kept vehicle but 88' manual coupes are getting scarce so its a wash IMO. I love the G1 coupes and yours can become a keeper.

In order of importance...

I would be concerned about the temp gauge pegging when the engine is running. Check fans, thermostat and hoses for blockage or leaks. Compression check to be sure the head gasket is OK.

Next, would be the timing belt/water pump. Any records showing it was replaced recently?

Alternator brushes will need to be replaced soon.
I have no past records, but I still feel that I did good on the deal. I actually wanted a car for me to work on. That was my favorite part of my G2. Once I had all the maintance done it was just ordering aftermarket parts and waiting to install them all. I am pretty sure the temp guage is off due to the thermostat. Even when the car is cold the temp gauge pegs at the top once you start it. I didn't know the water pump and timing belt were as important as the G2, but I will get it done. I have a great shop working with me. Thanks for the input! Do you have and input on the parts I have ? by?
Later!
Lee
 

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for spark plugs go w/ the cheap NGK's, copper 2$ NGK plugs will conduct best (from what i've heard) platinum will last a lot longer if u want to go that route.. but w/ me, i like changing them often and knowing that they are good

also replace ur PCV valve, its under the honda plate on the front valve cover gasket.. its a cheap part to replace, it'll cause sludge in ur engine if it goes unchanged for a long period of time.

of course u also might want to do 2 treatments of auto-rx (www.auto-rx.com) use the coupon code ARXCC when ordering to get a discount (it stands for auto rx car club) i think u can still get a slight discount with it..

tons of oil discussion has gone on on the forums.. i'd stick with pennzoil 5w-30 or havoline 10w-30 while u go through the auto-rx treatment and then go to synthetic

for the oil filter, the part # has been passed around all over if u'll run a search, i can't think of it off hand. acura dealership will give it to ya, or u can get turboviper to send u a few

for abs, i'd just pull the ALB fuse and forget about it.. its worthless IMO

good luck with that car.. its gonna be very fun to see the progress :)
 

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As for the instant pegging of the temp, change your sensor. It is located just above the thermostat right next to the bleeder screw. The same sensor is used on Civics & Accords, Integras etc. Pick one up at the junkyard.
I'd get this done first before proceeding to the next stage. that way if it is fixed, you're good to go full tilt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
« z00m z00m » said:
for spark plugs go w/ the cheap NGK's, copper 2$ NGK plugs will conduct best (from what i've heard) platinum will last a lot longer if u want to go that route.. but w/ me, i like changing them often and knowing that they are good

also replace ur PCV valve, its under the honda plate on the front valve cover gasket.. its a cheap part to replace, it'll cause sludge in ur engine if it goes unchanged for a long period of time.

of course u also might want to do 2 treatments of auto-rx (www.auto-rx.com) use the coupon code ARXCC when ordering to get a discount (it stands for auto rx car club) i think u can still get a slight discount with it..

tons of oil discussion has gone on on the forums.. i'd stick with pennzoil 5w-30 or havoline 10w-30 while u go through the auto-rx treatment and then go to synthetic

for the oil filter, the part # has been passed around all over if u'll run a search, i can't think of it off hand. acura dealership will give it to ya, or u can get turboviper to send u a few

for abs, i'd just pull the ALB fuse and forget about it.. its worthless IMO

good luck with that car.. its gonna be very fun to see the progress :)
Great advise! I am going to hold off on any work until the heads are not leaking. After that it is mobil1 all the way. I will find the info on the oil filter, but I wanted to throw it out there. Thanks for the feedback! Do you have any infor on the upgraded disks?
Later!
Lee
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
GREYLEGEND said:
As for the instant pegging of the temp, change your sensor. It is located just above the thermostat right next to the bleeder screw. The same sensor is used on Civics & Accords, Integras etc. Pick one up at the junkyard.
I'd get this done first before proceeding to the next stage. that way if it is fixed, you're good to go full tilt.
That was one of my other questions. I know the G1 Legend has some similarities to the accord, so I want to know what I can use from the accord. I plan to fix the temp guage and the brakes first.
Later!
Lee
 

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nice buy lee, 5 speed coupes are not exactly the easiest rides to come by, and im looking forward to seeing your progress on it :), although we are so far apart, i have never felt so close, now that you own a g1, lol joking, peace dude :2cool:

o yeah almost forgot: i would suggest checking the fuel pump for ware, also if your going to go with new wires and plugs don't forget to get a new cap and distributor, not too expensive and worth it. I would also check the o2 sensors and check for leaky injectors. An engine flush/auto rx treatment would prob do wonders on a car that is in such shape, so good luck with that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
acc-unit said:
nice buy lee, 5 speed coupes are not exactly the easiest rides to come by, and im looking forward to seeing your progress on it :), although we are so far apart, i have never felt so close, now that you own a g1, lol joking, peace dude :2cool:

o yeah almost forgot: i would suggest checking the fuel pump for ware, also if your going to go with new wires and plugs don't forget to get a new cap and distributor, not too expensive and worth it. I would also check the o2 sensors and check for leaky injectors. An engine flush/auto rx treatment would prob do wonders on a car that is in such shape, so good luck with that.
Thanks! I will be getting a new distributor cap and rotor when I replace the plugs and wires. Do I need a whole new distributor? I will have to remove the distributor any way to track down that oil leak right there, so it will be no big deal to change it out.
Later!
Lee
 

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Lee, im so glad u got a g1, you'll love it! Im 90% done getting all my maintenence done so after i can do the cosmetics! i cant wait till i have a almost brand new g1 legend ls! take it easy and be thankful you dont have a manual transmission! - Jimmy
 

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From your post it doesn't sound like anything major except for the temp gauge problem. As per a post above...just check on the water pump/timing belt...and the oil pump is right behind it...get a deal on the labor as it's right there... the oil pump is a couple of hundred. Check your alternator, brake lines. The body looks like it had no rust...so that's a plus..even with the faded paint. Check your moonroof drains in each corner and get those cleared before you get an unwelcome shower. Master cylinder may need to be replaced if the brakes are soft. Good luck !!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
WhenHeartsRunDry said:
Lee, im so glad u got a g1, you'll love it! Im 90% done getting all my maintenence done so after i can do the cosmetics! i cant wait till i have a almost brand new g1 legend ls! take it easy and be thankful you dont have a manual transmission! - Jimmy
I am quickly falling for this car. I do have the manual transmission. Is that bad? I was told the auto was more problematic.
Later!
Lee
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ND1980LS said:
From your post it doesn't sound like anything major except for the temp gauge problem. As per a post above...just check on the water pump/timing belt...and the oil pump is right behind it...get a deal on the labor as it's right there... the oil pump is a couple of hundred. Check your alternator, brake lines. The body looks like it had no rust...so that's a plus..even with the faded paint. Check your moonroof drains in each corner and get those cleared before you get an unwelcome shower. Master cylinder may need to be replaced if the brakes are soft. Good luck !!!!!!
My first move is going to be replacing the abs pump, fixing leaking injector gasket, replace valve gasket, upgrade rotors and pads, replace plugs wires rotor and cap. I think this will get me off to a good start. After Christmas I will go at it more aggressively. There is no rust except in the frame right where it bends up behind the motor. I am going to look around for a shop to cut out all the rusted area and weld in a new piece. The only reason I am looking into this is because it is a 3 inch hole directly on the bottom. Both sides and the top of the rail are fine. No other rust and supriseingly no door dings either. The body is perfect.
Later!
Lee
 

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manual transmission problematic?

sleeprlegendcp said:
I am quickly falling for this car. I do have the manual transmission. Is that bad? I was told the auto was more problematic.
Later!
Lee
I haven't read of any recurrent problems. You read about the automatics, but they're the great majority produced, I'm sure. Then again we're talking about 15 year old high mileage cars. Most other cars have been crushed into cubes by now...
 
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