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My first unexpected broken part experience...

1.2K views 13 replies 8 participants last post by  AcuraLegend1990  
#1 ·
I have owned and loved this coupe since it was new, and have never had anything break that I didn't say "well, no problem, its a known weak point like the rear trans mount, or radiator - actually, that's all that I have had to fix on my car besides normal maintenance.
Well, just got back from lunch, pulled into the parking lot, grabbed the door handle - no open. So I thought "great" broken cable maybe. Well, I pulled the handle out and its broken on the bottom where it pivots on the vertical pin.
Called Acura of Augusta, and, in typical Acura fashion, you can't just buy the handle. No, you have to buy the whole unit - handle, trim, seat memory switch. Over $180, but the'll cut me a deal for $151.74, better, but it still sucks.
So, I'm opening my door by rolling down the window for a while until the part comes in and I get a chance to pull it apart and replace it.
Oh well, at least it still runs and looks good!
 
#3 ·
Just fixed this on my coupe...for $5. Epoxy is your friend. :D
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the heads up on the eBay option. Those are from a 91 sedan, but I believe it is the same one used in the coupe.

If not, I may go the epoxy route. I'm not sure how permanent a fix that is though, since were it broke seems to be subject to a lot more stress than epoxy will hold. What type did you use?

BTW, I've checked all of the local salvage yards and they don't have any late model Legends.
 
#5 ·
I bought the one that looks like side by side syringes. It has held up well so far....epoxy will actually cure harder than the plastic parts...I'm not worried about it. I just really globbed it on the break and all around it...you will have a good idea of what to do when you see it all taken apart. I took the whole handle unit out of the door panel for the repair...this was easier than letting it hang on the door.
 
#8 ·
Thanks guys. I think I'm going to try the epoxy fix first and if it holds up I've saved a buck fifty. If not, I guess I'll have to cough it up. Sure would rather spend it on something else though...especially since I have the timing belt maintenance very close on the horizon.
 
#12 ·
FIX UPDATE.
I stopped by Home Depot on the way home Friday and picked up some Plastic Fusion epoxy, two part mix for $3.50. I disassembled the handle, mixed up some glue, applied, let it set for 30 minutes per instructions, reassembled and let it cure overnight without opening the door or putting any stress on it. Its holding perfectly.
This stuff works!
I just saved $151.74.

Better living through modern chemical technology!
 
#13 ·
Answer to PM AcuraLegend1990:

The first attempt at using plastic epoxy only lasted a couple of days - it broke again. So this time I decided to REALLY fix it.

You will need to remove the door panel (4 screws - 2 behind the door handle, 1 located behind the cover in the front where it meets the dash, and 1 on the arm rest). Then simply pull the edges to pop the retainers.

Then remove the nut that holds the top of the armrest and the screws on the metal plate behind the switch assembly. Remove the screw that holds the cable (its a cable on the coupe) retainer then pop the cable end out of the door handle assembly. Remove the screws on the memory and lock switches then you should have the entire handle assembly free.

Now the fun part. Get a Dremel tool. Grind the end of the pin that runs through the handle/spring where it flares to hold it in. You have to do this or you won't be able to push the pin out. Once you have the pin out, the handle will be free.

Get a small flat washer to use as reinforcement around the stress point where it failed. About 3/8" with opening large enough for the pin (of course) about 1/8". Use a Dremel with a small router bit to grind away a circular recess in the handle (the weak point) about 1/32" deep (about the thickness of the flat washer). It has to be recessed or you won't have enough clearance to reassemble. Then I also drilled a small 1/32" hole in both pieces where the break is and installed a small finish nail as extra reinforcing. I used plastic modeling glue on the edges of the break. This type of glue actually dissolves the material and creates a good bond. Let this set for a couple of hours.

Next step is to set the washer in the routered recess with plastic epoxy and let it set up. As an added insurance I applied a thin coat of JB Weld over the entire repair area. Once set overnight, I sanded the JB Weld smooth and put it back together.

Good luck!