Welcome, the codes need to be pulled:

G2: DIY: Diagnosis: Pulling Codes - LegendWiki

G2: FAQ: Error Codes And Definitions - LegendWiki

 

Autozone says they can't check anything older than a 96 same with checkers ... Friends have said its the alternator? Any thoughts ?

 

Looks like the wiki link above may not be working. Try the online manual instead:
Acura Legend Online Service Manual (Page: 0179)

And a couple of pages later is the listing of the codes:
Acura Legend Online Service Manual (Page: 0182)

 

These cars have onboard diagnosis system, were pre OBDII so no a scanner won't work.

If the alternator is the culprit a voltage meter will tell you very easily.

There should be 12.5-12.7 volts at the battery with the car off.

If < than 12.5 volts replace the battery.

Once you start the car you should see 13.6-14.1 volts.

If not replace the alternator.

 

The battery is brand new, just got it two days ago. So replace alternator ? is that easy to DIY ?

 

Go back to autozone and have them test the alternator, never replace anything on a car unless you know it is bad.

If you can't figure out how to pull the code, then replacing the alternator is not an easy DIY. If you need help pulling the codes, you can always come over to my house and I'll show you how to pull the codes.

 

Idk if it will make it down to autozone with out shutting down on me lol. Where in Arizona are you located ?

 

Idk if it will make it down to autozone with out shutting down on me lol. Where in Arizona are you located ?

 

I'm in Ahwatukee. Do you have a multi-meter, if you don't you can go to harbor freight on north west corner of McClintock and Warner and pick one up for under $5. Check your voltage when the car is turned off (should be about 12.5 as BigBoy noted). Start the car and then test again, should be over 13.5 as BigBoy said. When measuring make sure you go with positive on battery terminal and negative on body ground not battery.

 

Ok, ill go pick one up. That's right down the road. Now I know I'm gonna sound like a total idiot for asking, but what do you mean by negative body ground?

 

Well I started the car this morning. Drove to checkers they tested the battery and alternator said everything was working ok. Went home, ran some errands, then it stalled out in the middle of the road on me again. They said from what I've told them that it could be a relay or something shorting out.

 

So this car is really frustrating me. It starts, runs, sounds, handles just fine. MOST OF THE TIME, but the risk of it stalling or shorting or whatever is happening is always there. Check engine light turns on randomly. Sometimes right when it starts sometimes after running for a while. I know once its on that the stalling isn't far from happening. Here's what happens once the engine light is on, the power from the engine is gone (as if I dropped it into neutral), the battery, oil, ABS, TCS, and SRS lights turn on in the dash board. And then steering the car is difficult as if power steering is gone. After, trying to start the car is useless it tries to start but fails, or it will start for a split second then shut off. After waiting about 15-20 minutes the car starts fine and runs fine for a while then this all happens again.

 

We really need the codes, otherwise one thing that comes to mind is the main relay as it controls your fuel pump. When it shuts off will it start right away or do you have to wait a little while?

 

Right after it all happens it'll start then shut off immediately, but after about 20 min. It'll start and price for a while.

 

Drive* not price.

 

Sounds like it could be the main relay. You can pull it out and check to see if the solder joints have cracks, you can then resolder them. There are a lot of threads on the main relay if you want to search.

 

So I've read over the main relay threads, definitely gonna check that out tomorrow cuz I work all day today. However I don't own a soldering iron, is getting a new one pricey ?

 

A new non-OEM will cost about $75 at o'reilly's, the dealer should be about $85. I normally buy from Acura of Tempe because I can pick it up but you can order online at: Acura of Tempe | New Acura dealership in Tempe, AZ 85284

RELAY ASSY., MAIN (RZ-0105) (MITSUBA) 39400-SP0-013 priced at $60.32

 

I really hope this is the problem. Thanks a lot for all the help, ill post tomorrow after I check the relay and see if maybe i can find someone who can solder it, or else just replace it.

 

Took the relay out and apart. Some looked crack (at least I think) I'll take it to auto zone tomorrow morning and see what they say.

 

Ok took the relay to the store they said it all looked fine, (I don't think he knew what he was talking about) then took it to a computer shop, dude there said it looks like it was over heating cuz of some discoloraton on the back, and that the whole part needed to be replaced. I still feel like I could see cracks in the solder. But if the whole part needs to be replaced so be it ?