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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My throttle Position sensor was cured by cleaning and probably luck. I did check all the connections So I am happy about that. Getting ready to smog it by doing the simple things like new plugs and wires as suggested here on the forum. I put in 10-30W for oil. BUT..............
I did get another engine light after fixing the Throttle sensor. It blinked 8 times, and according to the codes it says TDC sensor or circuit (Integra). Mine is an Acura Legend so I assume it referring to the TDC sensor. It does go off though after I restart the car. It is intermittent. According to Chilton's, the TDC or Crank angle sensor is a real pain in the .... to do. Removing timing pulley, etc..... Is this the real problem? Is there something else I should check before? Anyone have an idea what is wrong.
When I reset the ECU by pulling the alt sense fuse for 10 secs, the engine light doesn't come on for a while. As soon as I stop and go to an idle at a light, it will come on if Im stopped too long. I think Im going to try to smog it and hope the light doesn't come on during the test. The problem is the smog is due now. It's an instant smog fail if the engine code comes on. So any help would be appreciated. As soon as I get it smog ok'ed, then I'll be able to dig into this car and fix it. I like the car. It kicks .... on the road. I'll begin refurbishing it slowly as time and $ permit. Thanks again. Great forum.
 

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the TDC (top dead center) sensor and the crank angle sensor are 2 different things. your TDC is inside the distributor, it uses what appears to be a magnet to tell when your rotor is at cyl #1's spark position, I guess thats how it works.. i just looked at it. but anyway its either a brake in the wire or the tdc is bad. Check the plug thats ontop of the distributor for a loose connection or any breaks in the wire. If the wiring is good then its the sensor, the TDC is not a servicable item and you have to replace the whole distributor, the dist is one of the few things common to fail on honda engines.
its very common for the dist bearing to fail also and that can throw off the TDC also, take off your cap and if there is red dust then you need to get that changed ASAP or the results wont be good...
I have a distributor on hand for a 2.7L legend you can have for 50$ if you want it that works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. Ill check out the wiring and go deeper into seeing whats wrong. Ill consider the distributor if that's the problem. Mine is a 1988 Legend and if I read it right, according to the Chilton's manual, it says its located under the timing covers under the pulley. Chilton says the Integra has it in the distributor. I'll look it up again. Ill take a look at the distributor and see if its there. Thanks.
 

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I've never done it, but if you are concerned about the check engine light coming on during the test, then remove the check engine light bulb in the instrument panel and replace it after the test. I am sure there are instructions on this site on how to get to the bulbs behing the instrument cluster if you don't know how to.
 

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yea, the crank angle sensor is somwhere around there, i've yet to see it but i think there is a plug for it around the timing cover on the radiator side, you can check to see if that came loose. Ive yet to see some ones crank sensor actually fail but i dont know how many tdc sensors turned out to be the problem. I'm not sure if the 88 is a 2.7, if so then it has a tdc sensor. the 2.5s have a vac line instead.
 

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This may apply to you but a different bulb obviously:

blacklegendcoupe89 said:
If your ABS doesn't work, you don't plan to repair it and want to get rid of the yellow light in the dash, just remove the bulb. It is pretty easy, just remove the dashboard frame (4 philips screws), disconnect the wires to the four switches (cruise, dimmer,..) and locate (by looking through the windshield) the bulb that corresponds to the ABS, turn it a bit and pull it out.
 

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yea, it applies, its just like 4 screws and the whole fram for the cluster lifts off and you can reach the bulbs and twist and pull them out. the only thing about this is that when you turn the ignition on the check engine light is supposed to come on for a few seconds then cut off, they may look for that..
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks.
Problem with removing the bulb is that I believe the smog test monitors the ECU and looks for failure. Also, they check that the panel lights all light at the start. I am going to check on it if it seems to be a problem. But it seems the engine is running fine now. No trouble lights. So Im now in the process of new plug wires, new spark plugs, and will get a new catalytic convertor installed. California smog tests are notorious for failures due to cat converters. Then they could go into the gross polute catagory and another nightmare. Yep, Ca is really a screwed up state in these ways along with the other problems. If the engine does come on before the test, Ill rig in something like a short timer to keep the panel light on and then turn off in seconds when it starts. Have some friends who could help if need be. As for now, it runs well.

What plugs should I run in this car, its an 1988 sedan, 2.7
Thanks again.
And a Happy New Year to you guys...
 

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for plugs get some cheap copper plugs like champion...
copper has the strongest spark so it should help with emissions...
platinum plugs last a long time... but there spark is weaker...
cheap copper plugs all the way
maytag
 
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