get a dry kit, as long as your not doing a huge shot, your computer will be able to put the right amount of fuel with the nitrous. Both kits are dangerous if used incorrectly. For example if you do too big of a shot using a dry kit, your car wont have the capabilities to apply the right amount of fuel with the stock components. For a wet kit, you are spraying fuel and nitrous into your manifold which could be dangerous as well since it could cause backfires. So both are dangerous in their own ways. I went with a dry kit because its more of a simple set up, im not gonna run huge shots maybe 60-70 shots, and i have a afc to fine tune it on a dyno.
hes tried everything from direct port to wet and then he settled with dry.. So if your following him, go with a dry set up, maybe he'll chime in with some reasons of why he settled down with a dry set up.what does dv8 run? Reason I ask is I'm copying his engine so might as well follow his footsteps
Copy cat.what does dv8 run? Reason I ask is I'm copying his engine so might as well follow his footsteps
Only thing I'm copying is a RL block with Type 2 top end. Rest is different. Waits for dv8 to chime in.Copy cat.
This is a common misconception.
This is 100% accurate. In fact I would NEVER run a shot of over 100hp nitrous dry. My feelings here are that if you're adding that much nitrous it would be best to mix your additional fuel with the nitrous, so you don't risk overly lean cylinders.
Backfiring through the intake is usually a problem with vehicles running high overlap cams and large amounts of nitrous.
I'm also running dry on my RL...just because I have a drivetrain warranty so I wanted to be able to pull it out quick-like.
hmm what im doing is using an afc to tune the airfuel based on the nitrous shot and using a moates 2timer to change my maps at the time of nitrous injection, retarding the maps by 2 degrees. Once i figure out how much fuel needs to be added i can get a custom chip made with those adjustments, am i going about this the wrong way?
I don't think the AFC has any place here. If you're using it to tune the nitrous shot, how are you only using it when the nitrous is activated? Wouldn't you be running nitrous corrected fueling at all times that way? If I misunderstand your setup please clarify.
there is a setting on the afc that i can change maps from say a nitrous map to an na map, so it wouldn't be running it all the time. But i don't see why i couldn't correlate the data from the afc to a chip later on for that nitrous shot that way i would only run the maps at the time i press the nitrous button. The moates 2timer will read half of the chip with na maps on it, but when its grounded it will read the other half of the chip with the nitrous maps on it, this will allow me to wire it to the nitrous switch.
Like a much less reasonable estimate than calculating 1/4 mile from 1/8th mile ET.
hmm so your not just an asshole you actually know your stuffOk, I didn't know if your flip chip was just ignition or ignition and fuel map switchable.
Switchable map for the AFC makes sense. Must be a SAFCII or whatever they're calling 'em now. Perfectly reasonable by itself, although forgetting to switch maps could be a disaster.
The point I was making about the AFC values to the nitrous map on the chip is this:
The percentage correction based on throttle position on the AFC will not directly coincide with the change of values on the chip. Honestly you could only hope the chip burner has a good instinct for translating the values.
IMO I wouldn't spend the money on a chip with guesses and hope it is right. You would be better off using the fpr vacuum line method of enrichment and tuning it from there. So you could have fueling close before you have to trust the electronics.
i think dv8 needs to chime in here, since he has used every form of nitrous on the legend and knows what works best and why, so ill sent him a pm about this convo so he can post some knowledge
