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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alas, I have picked up the no-A/C burden. Three years ago the car ran out of R12 but since I didn’t drive it during the following three summers I didn’t bother recharging it. I need A/C this summer and last week I finally decided to fix it. A friendly shop put 1lb of R12 for a test run. The compressor engaged and it passed the compression test BUT no cold air in the car. The lines leading to the evaporator unit are cold so my guess and that of the mechanic is that something is blocking the fluid from reaching the evaporator. I am open to other suggestions but the expansion valve seems a natural first guess. I have combed through the archive about information on this and there seems to be disagreement whether the expansion valve can be replaced WITHOUT removing the evaporator unit or not. So let me ask this again: can it be done or not? The difference from what I can tell is removing the blower unit vs. the whole dash. Clearly not trivial!

Since that original test a few days ago, the compressor has stopped engaging. I am guessing the triple pressure switch is doing its job and protecting the compressor from damage (which is another indirect support for the blocked lines idea) but I would like to confirm that this indeed is the problem. Is there a way to bypass or reset the switch? Thanks a bunch for any help with this!
 

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I took a quick look at the heater assy that I have sitting in my garage since I haven't replaced the expansion valve. By removing the blower assy you can most likely see if the expansion valve is leaking but I'm not sure if you can get the expansion valve assy out or not. Here is a pic for reference:

Heater Assy 1
 

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Yes, I saw that pic as part of another post... Thanks! I can't judge from it if there is enough room to get to the valve when it is installed in the car. Am I correct to assume that to remove the evaporator I need to remove the dash?
 

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You can do an in-car replacement of the expansion valve. It's somewhat of a pain but do-able. If the expansion valve is stuck closed, the compressor will actually pull the low pressure side of the system into a vacuum. Usually, if you have a blockage, the line will be warm before the blockage and cold after. I've seen receiver/driers come apart and block the high pressure line going to the evaporator.

The compressor not engaging could be numerous things. Quite possibly a fan control unit problem, there is a service bulletin I posted here somewhere about it.
 

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is my problem similar

So my original compressor seized and burned the belt a few years ago so I purchased a reman comp for a good price replaced the receiver drier as well and converted to r134 vacuumed and recharged yet the low side is reading 0 and there is no leak where could it be blocked? I know the old receiver drier had about 3 lbs of what sounded like pebbles inside any info would be appreciated
 

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So my original compressor seized and burned the belt a few years ago so I purchased a reman comp for a good price replaced the receiver drier as well and converted to r134 vacuumed and recharged yet the low side is reading 0 and there is no leak where could it be blocked? I know the old receiver drier had about 3 lbs of what sounded like pebbles inside any info would be appreciated
What is your high side pressure?
 
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