Oil Pan Gasket Replacement

1710 Views 4 Replies 4 Participants Last post by C25A1guy, May 22, 2002

Citka

Discussion Starter · May 21, 2002

I have a leaky oil pan gasket on my C27A - Automatic that needs to be replaced. I have already bought the gasket and intend on doing it myself.

What should I know about doing it? It looks like I need to unbolt the cross member that goes under the oil pan itself and possibly the exhaust pipe from the manifold(s)...

Do I have to get new exhaust manifold "donuts" to replace when I bolt the down pipe back on?

What else is involved?

Thanks.

-FurBall

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Rick90Legend

· #2 · May 22, 2002

I did this a few months ago. Must remove the cross bar (with tow hook) completely, unbolt the exhaust manifold from front and rear. It will pull down and pivot right and left as needed to access the oil pan nuts.

Buy replacement nuts to reattach the manifold. There are 6 nuts - self locking. They will strip themselves as you unscrew them. (Someone told me this but I figured I would use the old ones - wish I had heeded their advice. I used the old ones but would have felt better with new nuts)

I also had to remove 1 bolt and loosen the others on the black, half moon shaped cover on the end of the tranny to access some of the bolts on the oil pan. If you have a 1/4" inch extension, then may not have to do this but is easy if needed.

I did not replace the manifold gaskets but you can if you want.

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Citka

Discussion Starter · #3 · May 22, 2002

When you say "unbolt the manifold from the front and the back".....You don't really mean unbolt the manifold from the block....do you?

As I understood it, I needed to unbolt the exhaust downpipe FROM the manifold. Is that what has to happen?

Also, you said I should replace those 6 bolts....which I will take your advice and do. Is that 3 on each for a total of 6, or 6 on each for a total of 12?

Thanks for the advice!!!!

-FurBall

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ladelberg

· #4 · May 22, 2002

3 on each for at total of 6 nuts (not bolts). I did not replace when I did it and have not had any problems - used thread lock to make sure they stay. You are disconnecting the exhaust pipe from the manifold. I actually found it easier to remove the entire pipe (meaning undo the three nuts at the cat too). I tried it the other way and after getting whacked in the head few times, I got fed up and undid the back too.

I did not replace the "donuts" either.

I removed the plate at the transmission entirely rather than loosening and pivoting - a great opportunity to clean all that stuff.

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C25A1guy

· #5 · May 22, 2002

Well, first and formost: DRAIN THE OIL (duh)
1: unbolt crossmember
2:unbolt downpipe from manifold
3:wash that sh!t!!! (trust me, you'll thank me when you don't have gease stain residu up the the mid-fore are on prom night)
4:Go at all the little 10mm bolts and nuts
5:you might need to unbolt this little cover on the tranny to acess the bolts near the tranny
6:Wiggle the pan free (It might get stuck on the few lug/bolts)
7:Get ready to get addicted to brake cleaner. Clean the pan inside and out.
8:scrape where the gasket was on the pan and on the block lightly
9:set the gasket on the pan (you don't need to use any gasket sealent, but I bet it would help with keeping the gasket from moving all over the place)
10: installation is reverse

Oh, the bolts on the downpipe and the cross member well tend to be very hard to take off. you can use an impact gun on the cross memeber, but you'll have better luck using a breaker bar on the self locking nuts. You're gonna need to have 2 rachets (1/4" and 1/8" rachets). The 1/8" is gonna help you fit between the pan and tranny the best. And use an extention.

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