Acura Legend Forum banner
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
I'van der Rohe
Joined
·
12,803 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i was coming home today with my Best friend on this side street we have to take from school to home. the norm through this little twisty turny road for him is about 75-80 mph upto 100 on the straight away (really nice long passing zone). well he felt the need to go 80+ the whole way. I try to stay with him (he's in a 91 camry DX 4 cylinder), which is not a concern, but as we finished the straight i notice my brakes got justa tad soft. i say okay and keep going having to brake longer and harder than him (i guess his light car) i notce when we get to the first stop sign my brake have fully faded. i put the pedal almost all the way to the floor and still had to down shift just to slow to a stop. this scared me as i almost ran into the back of him. as we pulled up to the next stop sign he hits me off with another suprise hes going my way so he hit his brakes again fast, my brakes haven't cooled yet so, again, i almost hit him. i need help i just changed these damn things and road for 200 miles for them to brake in are they supposed to fade like this. i have so sort of pep boys brand Brake pads. Are EBC or Metal Matrix pads resistant to fade because at 80+mph with a nice 60 degree corner coming the last thing you want is for your brakes to be faded away. PLEASE HELP GIVE ADVICE ON BRAKE PADS. also whats up on the big brake kit. i need some thing to figt this fade.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,165 Posts
Brembo x-drilled/slotted will disipate heat much better than stock rotors which will reduce break fade. Some metal master pads will grip those new rotors really well. Some stainless steel break lines will make for more firm breaking.
 

·
I'van der Rohe
Joined
·
12,803 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
what about Green Stuff are they good pads i wish i had the skril for some SSBLs or some B-BO's. you think i can cross drill the stock rotors:D. i need better braking. but for real what is the general consensous of specialty brake pads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,165 Posts
Bang&Olufsen DK said:
what about Green Stuff are they good pads i wish i had the skril for some SSBLs or some B-BO's. you think i can cross drill the stock rotors:D. i need better braking. but for real what is the general consensous of specialty brake pads.
I don't know about x-drilling the stock rotors, it may lessen the structural integrity and cause them to crack.

As for brake pads, I also wondered what you are wondering in terms of EBC vs. Metal Master, so I started a thread about it. Here is the thread:

http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4293&highlight=metal+master

I believe when I swap out my rotors and brake lines, I am going to try metal master pads first.
 

·
LEGEND
Joined
·
904 Posts
Actually this morning i was quite surprised with my legend's brakes. I was drivin about 50 in a 40, and i see this van waiting to make a right at an intersection. I'm goin a long, got a green light, and i'm in the left most lane, nothing to worry about right? wrong! soon as i got close, that moron decided to turn and went all the way to the left lane i was in....i was totally ready to hit the car, just slammed the brakes and hoped for the best. Thank God, my legend stopped on time and saved my butt, went from 50 to 5 SO FAST. maybe you're problem is something else, aside from stock brake fade, as my brakes were hot at the time of my incident and they still performed very well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
847 Posts
either EBC or metal master should be fine, just that no one knows what metal master's fading point and friction coefficient is. Also, EBC is a highly controllable pad which might be more suitable for your application. However, I've not used MM before so therefore I cannot tell you which is better. Yeah, flush your brake fluid if they look like coffee and make sure that your master cylinder and vacum booster are working well.
 

·
I'van der Rohe
Joined
·
12,803 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
brake master cylinder and fluid changed recently so i know its not main components. DSMkiller i feel you and i know what your talking about but stop in a panic from 50 is a bit different than a 15 min high speed run through a twisty turn back road. i've been in the panic stop sit. b4 and several panic stops the legend can shrug off no prob but slowing from 105 to 65-70 mph then from 90 to 40 is serious braking and doing this for 15 mins is crazy. i was just testing my cars abilities and dont plan on doing that again. but i need to be able to stop if this happens again, because things dont always go as planned. you know the Legend likes it fast (but not that fast apparently:D) im going to look into Green Stuff or even Yellow Stuff. Red Stuff is over Kill. does someone have Yellow Stuff.

where can i buy these pads and rotors, i was looking and found that they have fake-me-out-go-go X-Drilled rotors that would fool people that i hang around with and still provide better braking.

one...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,165 Posts
Bang&Olufsen DK said:
brake master cylinder and fluid changed recently so i know its not main components. DSMkiller i feel you and i know what your talking about but stop in a panic from 50 is a bit different than a 15 min high speed run through a twisty turn back road. i've been in the panic stop sit. b4 and several panic stops the legend can shrug off no prob but slowing from 105 to 65-70 mph then from 90 to 40 is serious braking and doing this for 15 mins is crazy. i was just testing my cars abilities and dont plan on doing that again. but i need to be able to stop if this happens again, because things dont always go as planned. you know the Legend likes it fast (but not that fast apparently:D) im going to look into Green Stuff or even Yellow Stuff. Red Stuff is over Kill. does someone have Yellow Stuff.

where can i buy these pads and rotors, i was looking and found that they have fake-me-out-go-go X-Drilled rotors that would fool people that i hang around with and still provide better braking.

one...
This is contact information for Wood at raceconcepts. You can buy your Brembo x-drilled/slotted rotors from him. I believe he also sells SS brake lines.

http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4720
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
847 Posts
I don't think any of us on the forum has tried yellow stuff... Yes, yellow stuff has a crazy fading point but the friction coefficient is not as high as green stuff. Green Stuff + Brembos should be sufficient:)

Or, you can get Endless brake pads if you are willing for pay for the price. But no doubt very very good stuff though:D
 

·
I'van der Rohe
Joined
·
12,803 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
they are less than i expexted but damn. 180 2 rotors. i gues youget what you pay for. every body that has B-BOs likes them right? im asking. are they good to the last stop?(sorry for the stupid pun) is it worth $440. are the one from Raceconcepts.net real B-BOs (say bee-BOES). im thinking about getting some of these B-BOs if they are good but im also thinking that EBC Pads will be far less expessive. green stuff pads and Turbo groove rotors. but i would like to be able to say, "yeah i got dem B-BOs on my wagon." i know 1/2 steppin aint cool but damn...wait i dont know the price of these EBC sh*tz somebody help me. yeah green stuff should suffice.



one...
 

·
88 sleeper
Joined
·
1,159 Posts
Bang&Olufsen DK said:
i have so sort of pep boys brand Brake pads.
if you have organic pads they are subject to heat fade. also if you put <200 miles on these new pads. first question....did you break in the pads?

overtaxing your brakes can glaze your pads & rotors & yer gonna end up in an at fault accident if you keep actin like that.
 

·
0000$$$$0000####0000
Joined
·
4,926 Posts
Bang&Olufsen DK said:
what about Green Stuff are they good pads i wish i had the skril for some SSBLs or some B-BO's. you think i can cross drill the stock rotors:D. i need better braking. but for real what is the general consensous of specialty brake pads.
I use the GreenStuff and I like them very much. It requirews no warm up time at all, it has no fade (at least for me so far), and it has very little dust (about a light dust coat after 2 weeks), and absulutely no squeeking at all (at least so far). You can also get the EBC Red, or Yellow pads if you need more performance.
 

·
I'van der Rohe
Joined
·
12,803 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Re: Re: OMG serious brake fade

RICDOGG said:


if you have organic pads they are subject to heat fade. also if you put <200 miles on these new pads. first question....did you break in the pads?
Um i stated that i rode (spelled wrong the first time) these brakes for 200 miles as a break-in period before i merked w/ my friend that day. even though its kind of broken you can get the gest of what im saying. read it again.


overtaxing your brakes can glaze your pads & rotors & yer gonna end up in an at fault accident if you keep actin like that.
i know this bruh, that is why i said i dont plan on doing this again.
but even at that i need better braking any ways. i need it for peace of mind if nothing else. speaking of, thats why i need better braking guy, with better brakes they wont be over taxed as easily, c'mon guy, speed up just a little.
 

·
*r**h *eller
Joined
·
1,920 Posts
Pedal going to the floor is a sure sign of hydraulic problems, not brake pads. When was the last time the brake fluid was replaced? Should be done every 60K. New master cylinders can be damaged at install if they are pumped beyond normal stroke while bleeding.

You get that overheating problem fixed yet?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
847 Posts
actually, for his very severe driving condition, I think he should at least flush the brake fluid every 12 months.
 

·
*r**h *eller
Joined
·
1,920 Posts
Severe driving condition? DKs had the car only a few weeks. I almost bought the thing to part out but couldn't solve the storage issue. This is a high mileage car that has several maintenance issues that need adressing if he wants to keep the car going. I'm actrually surprised he's driving it on the road. Not bustin on ya DK. OK? Have you inspected the entire hydraulic system? You could have a pin hole leak in a line or a leaking caliper. First I'd bleed the entire system completely.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top