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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Did a complete coolant flush about 3 days ago, no problems at all afterwards. Today we warmed it up to go to Spokane, wasn't on near long enough to overheat, but the needle was in the red. But the over flow tank wasn't bubbling, and the cap wasn't all that hot. I checked around on here to see what the problem may be, found out that I didn't have the bleeder open when I filled it after the flush (stupid me). Well I let it ran, and slowly bled the system to where the needle went down.

Drove to Spokane, was all fine and dandy, pulled into the Costco parking lot, then all of a sudden it was pegged again. Still wasn't bubbling. Did what I did at home, added water, bled it again, etc.

Drove to Northtown, was all fine, when I was parked, I looked down.... Pegged.

Came out after like 30 mins, was still 'hot' on the needle, but still wasn't bubbling.

Well this went on all the way home, so I had the heater on full, pulled into a gas station, checked it, and the rad cap was COOL. Not like cold, it was warm, but less than normal operating temperatures. From there til home the needle was almost at peak, but it never moved an inch. At home I checked again, no bubbling, and cap was normal temp.

My only guess since the thermostat is maybe a month old, is that the 18 year old temperature sensor went out.


Sorry for the long write up, just thought it could shed some light on the situation.

Thoughts?

Thank you. :)
 

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Possible, but I'd also make sure that your fans are working, especially if it was fine out on the road, but then pegged in a parking lot....
 

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FRISCO LEGEND BABY!!!!
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NEVER ADD WATER!!! Thats gonna create corrosion. Check if your fans kick in on normal temp. If both fans work and the needle is hitting the H mark, check the radiator hoses. Feel them if they are hot/warm/cold. If the upper hose is hot and the lower hose is cold/warm, then that means the thermostat is stuck. Keep us posted, hope you find the solution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
NEVER ADD WATER!!! Thats gonna create corrosion. Check if your fans kick in on normal temp. If both fans work and the needle is hitting the H mark, check the radiator hoses. Feel them if they are hot/warm/cold. If the upper hose is hot and the lower hose is cold/warm, then that means the thermostat is stuck. Keep us posted, hope you find the solution.
Oh yes, forgot to say that. Both hoses were just as they should be. Checked the thermostat, it's fine. And it wasn't just almost pegged in the lot, but on the road too. Fans come on at normal... I think. But regardless, it's not overheating. The dash just says it is.

I already drained the water out. We bought some Factory Honda coolant yesterday. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update:

Took out block drainplug, and ran heater till everything was out. Added Honda coolant with bleeder valve open till nice smooth stream came out. Closed valve, let engine get to normal operation tempature... now the guage is staying where it should be, dunno why... oh well. Opened the bleeder some, let a bit more air out till stead stream, closed it.

Drive the car around for about 3 miles, with spirited driving, and no rise, just normal. Checked lower radiator hose, and it's warm also. Note: Lower radiator hose doesn't warm up as fast as top. (that normal?)

Regardless, heater works, temp needle is where it should be, car isn't overheating. No coolant leaks, nothing.

Weird ass cars, haha.
 

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FRISCO LEGEND BABY!!!!
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Ya its normal. The upper hose will heat up quicker than the lower one. I'm glad it stopped overheating.
 

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Gangstar* User
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s;djfl

Same problem, even with a coolant change, every once in while the needle will jump with no lag just BAM!!

to the H mark
i think its the pig tail but i replaced it with one off of another motor, but who knows it could be bad too
haha

Newho Glad to hear yours is not overheating !!!!
 

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because i can.
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Are you guys bleeding with the heater on full blast? It also might help to have the car parked on an incline (ie facing up a hill, or the front wheels on ramps or even 2x4s). This will help force any trapped air to the bleeder and to the top of the radiator with the cap off....
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ya its normal. The upper hose will heat up quicker than the lower one. I'm glad it stopped overheating.
Well it never way actually overheating per say, just the needle said it was.

I ran the car with the system full of Blue, until I saw a steady stream of Blue through the bleeder, which meant all old was out 100%.

All is fine now. :D

236K+ and still going strong and will do 140+. :woot:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ahh, and our gaskets are borderline blown. Were leaking in some spots, but the main reason for the flush was that we used some of the K&W Nanotechnology Head Gasket & Block Repair. Let me say too, it's working. :woot:
 

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Matthew is THE USER!
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Yea thats what i thought... my temp reads like 75% to H but i dont think its actually over heating at all.. .. wierd cars. im chandging my thermostat and bleeding the system tonight .. i hope it'll fix the problem... there is prolly air in the system.. from when i filled up not too long ago.. it was an emergency fill up of antifreeze so .. i did a shabby job :p
 

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Couple of suggestions; try cleaning the following...
> Temperature guage sender sensor... right beside the bleeder valve.
> Thermosensor on the bottom right of the radiator.
 

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Mo*or Mo**h
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Could have been air in the system, clogged/inefficient system (solved by your service with new coolant), or maybe the plug for the temp sensor was grounding out?? :dunno:
I'd agree.
I changed my thermostat last November, flushed and filled, bled. But, since, every other time I drive or so, I'd get a "Low Coolant" on the Info System. I'd end up having to add a pint or so to the overflow bottle. I don't drive much, so a lot of time has passed. I thought I still had a slow leak somewhere and kept looking but found none.

After 5-6 times, it stopped and has been stable since.
Now of the opinion it was air still trapped in the system working out.
Didn't dawn on me until reading this thread that I didn't turn on the heater when I bled it before.

IAC, the temp conditions at the top of the thread are very symptomatic of air in the system.
 
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