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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi,

I was wondering if anyone had good luck running with "performance" spark plugs over standard platinum/copper ones... Im considering getting the Denzo (sp?) spark plugs because I saw a reported HP gain (at wheels) of 5.9 on a sedan. Is this anywhere near accurate?

Secondly, I have not replaced ANY part of my BOSE sound system in my Legend, but I would at least like to replace my 6x9s in the back. I asked a friend about doing it, and he claims you have to replace the entire system at once... Is this true? Can I just buy some Pioneer 3-ways and throw them in? Opinions, options?

THANKS!

Sh0ck3D

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93 Black/Black Sedan
Weapon-R Intake
Custom Exhaust
Customer Upper/Lower Grilles
Reverse Indiglo Gauges (Silver)
Silver Dash Kit
Silver Shifter
-- Soon -- Aluminum Door Sills!


ADDITION:

I have a 93 Legend Sedan L, but it has every option except the climate control (which is why I didnt get the LS), and the heated seats. It has the "premium" BOSE sound system with the stock 6-disc changer. I BELIEVE it has a 200w amp...
 

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you have L or LS or GS?

Very different stereo system in the L and LS/GS, more info would be nice.
 
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I can tell you by the year of his car that he has a 2ohm system so yes, you are going to have to replace everything. The headunit and the speakers in the rear.
 

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SpeedDemon said:
I can tell you by the year of his car that he has a 2ohm system so yes, you are going to have to replace everything. The headunit and the speakers in the rear.
Actually Wrong!
All the L system had 4ohm speakers regardless of year.

Shock3d: You do not have the premium bose system in your car, you have the 80W amp built in the headunit, not the 200W separete amp. All your speakers are 4ohms, so it should be fine replacing them with any aftermarket 4 ohm speakres.

Also I suggest you replace all 4 speakers, because any time you mix different speakers in a system, different speaker brands sound slightly different. So you might not get the sound you like.
 
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Do you realize that only in 94 and 95 the L models came with the 2200 headunit (it actually may have been in 93 as well). The other L models came with the 2100 headunit and they had a separate amp behind the rear seat that put out 80W but it was 2 ohms. If someone can disprove me then I would be glad to hear. But the 2200 headunit is the only one that was 4 ohms, cause it needed to be 4 ohms if it was going to be a headunit (anything lower gets unsafe because of heat).

The LS model guys can usually get by by changing all four speakers because then they are still getting at least 25W per speaker.
 

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SpeedDemon said:
Do you realize that only in 94 and 95 the L models came with the 2200 headunit (it actually may have been in 93 as well). The other L models came with the 2100 headunit and they had a separate amp behind the rear seat that put out 80W but it was 2 ohms. If someone can disprove me then I would be glad to hear. But the 2200 headunit is the only one that was 4 ohms, cause it needed to be 4 ohms if it was going to be a headunit (anything lower gets unsafe because of heat).

The LS model guys can usually get by by changing all four speakers because then they are still getting at least 25W per speaker.
Yo Aaron, I think you need to do your research on legend Headunits again. Wasn't it you that started redoing your system the same time I did last summer? I remember you and I exchanged some good info on the old board on how to redo our systems. You had a 94L, mine is 94LS.

Anyway this is how the stereo system setup goes:
91-95 L -> 2200 with 80W built in at 4ohm (91-92 L also had the built in EQ)
91-92 LS -> 2100 with 80W seperate amp at 1-2ohm
93-95 LS -> 2100 with 200W seperate amp at 1-2ohm
94-95 GS -> 2100 with 200W seperate amp 1-2ohm
95 SE -> 2200 with 80W built in at 4ohm

No L model ever came with a separete amp behind the back seat, only LS/GS did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks! Any sparkplug info?

Thanks to everyone who replied...

I have concluded that I have the 4ohm system since I cannot find an external amp in the car.

Anyone have info on spark plugs? Im still wondering if its worth the $9-12 per plug for the Denso ones...

Thanks again,

Sh0ck3d

ADDITION:

Thanks I think I will get the Densos just because they are a bit cheaper than the NGKs, and I think they are supposed to last a lifetime (250k miles?)... Anyone know who has them for $9 a piece?
 

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yeah, my 92 L came with the 80w built in amp in the head unit.

Get Denso Iridium "only" if you can get them chaper than the NGK Platinum. They do not worth paying a premium over the platinums since I can only feel an improvement in the mid range.
 

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I haven't had any noticible performance gains from the denso iridiums, but if you can find them equal or cheaper then the platinums prices then go with the iridiums. I haven't actually gone thru a new set of platinums so my comparison is unconfirmed having just installed the 2nd set of plugs in my baby's lifetime.
 

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Not sure about the differences in the stock radios, but as for the Bose speakers....At mobile Audio we tested the OHMS resistance and it was 1 ohm for Bose from a Legend and a Maxima...same reading so I guess it all depends on the head unit. Listen to the other they are more knowledgable than I on the stock features.
 

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As for Densos, I don't believe the hype. I don't think you get any gains from them and I would just go with NGK.

As for changing the speakers, I would wait until you can change out all your speakers and the HU at the same time. It is important to keep all your speakers uniform and to run off of an aftermarket HU for resistance purposes.
 

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ok pretty much the same question except I have the bose premium. What do I need to change if I want to keep the headunit and change all 4 speakers?

Is there only one external amp for the rears or is there one for the fronts as well. Or are the front powered from the headunit.

What do you guy's recommend? I'm looking for something w/ decent bass such as the oem w/ a crisper sound. Can this be achieved w/o a sub?
 

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WhiteLegend said:


Yo Aaron, I think you need to do your research on legend Headunits again. Wasn't it you that started redoing your system the same time I did last summer? I remember you and I exchanged some good info on the old board on how to redo our systems. You had a 94L, mine is 94LS.

Anyway this is how the stereo system setup goes:
91-95 L -> 2200 with 80W built in at 4ohm (91-92 L also had the built in EQ)
91-92 LS -> 2100 with 80W seperate amp at 1-2ohm
93-95 LS -> 2100 with 200W seperate amp at 1-2ohm
94-95 GS -> 2100 with 200W seperate amp 1-2ohm
95 SE -> 2200 with 80W built in at 4ohm

No L model ever came with a separete amp behind the back seat, only LS/GS did.
I have a '92 Coupe L with a unit that has built in EQ but not marked. I tried replacing it with a 2200 unit (marked on unit above EQ) from a 91 Sedan. When installed it sounded over-amped and strange like the impedance did not match also. Could it be that my Coupe L has the 2100 unit with the 80W separate amp? Also, my unmarked unit was labeled "Matsu****a Electric" aka Pioneer. The 2200 unit was not labeled by the mfg. Could it be Fujitsu aka Alpine? Both units uses the same plugs but the back was different. The 2200 had a heatsink for the amp. My unmarked unit didn't have a heatsink. Please clarify for all to understand. Perhaps the specs are different for coupes.

I'm putting the 2200 unit back on ebay so that someone else could use it. I would like to use your clarified info to advise my bidders so that they wouldn't make the same mistake as I did.:)
 

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I am getting a little confused by all of the model number and specifications. Let me make a few comments regarding amps and speakers.

1. Measuring speaker resistance with an ohm-meter will NOT tell you the impedance. Impedance is not equal to resistance, it is a function of frequency. Manufacturers state a nominal impedance for a speaker. It would be best to contact Acura to find out what the actual impedance of the speakers for your car are.

2. Mixing and matching speakers and impedances is not a good idea because different speakers have different frequency response and efficiency and may not sound balanced. connecting speakers of different impedances can result in overloading your amp.

3. If an amp is rated at 200 watts into 2 ohms, It should have no problem driving a 4 ohm load. The amplifier does not have to work as hard to drive 4 ohms and probably puts out more power. Once again I would contact Acura to find out what the amplifier rating is at 2 and 4 ohms.

4. I am looking at the wiring diagram of the stereo in the 1994 helms manual. All models show 4 channels with two speakers connected in parallel to each. If the 80 watt amp is rated at 4 ohms, I am guessing that the speakers are 8 ohms and the two speakers in parallel present a 4 ohm load to the amp. I am guessing that the 200 watt setup uses two 4 ohm speakers in parallel for each channel to present a 2 ohm load to the amp.

It is difficult to decide what components you can or can't use without knowing the specifications of each component. It is difficult for me to give you more help without this information. If anyone has this information, please provide it. A reliable professional car audio installer may be able to help, but in my experience these guys sometimes don't know what the hell they are talking about. take the time and do some research before you make any changes. Best of luck!
 

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Coupe-Dude said:


I have a '92 Coupe L with a unit that has built in EQ but not marked. I tried replacing it with a 2200 unit (marked on unit above EQ) from a 91 Sedan. When installed it sounded over-amped and strange like the impedance did not match also. Could it be that my Coupe L has the 2100 unit with the 80W separate amp? Also, my unmarked unit was labeled "Matsu****a Electric" aka Pioneer. The 2200 unit was not labeled by the mfg. Could it be Fujitsu aka Alpine? Both units uses the same plugs but the back was different. The 2200 had a heatsink for the amp. My unmarked unit didn't have a heatsink. Please clarify for all to understand. Perhaps the specs are different for coupes.

I'm putting the 2200 unit back on ebay so that someone else could use it. I would like to use your clarified info to advise my bidders so that they wouldn't make the same mistake as I did.:)
Are you sure you have a L, this is the first case I've heard on the forum where there was no 2100 or 2200 marked on the headunit. Also what do you mean by sounded over amped? Did music came thru the speakers at all? Please be more specific, you could've bought a defective Headunit from ebay, which is very common. Let us know, thanks
 

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1. Measuring speaker resistance with an ohm-meter will NOT tell you the impedance. Impedance is not equal to resistance, it is a function of frequency. Manufacturers state a nominal impedance for a speaker. It would be best to contact Acura to find out what the actual impedance of the speakers for your car are.
Impedence in a DC circuit is equal to resistence. Only if their are capacitors and inductors in the circuit, then does frequency applies.

2. Mixing and matching speakers and impedances is not a good idea because different speakers have different frequency response and efficiency and may not sound balanced. connecting speakers of different impedances can result in overloading your amp.
True

If an amp is rated at 200 watts into 2 ohms, It should have no problem driving a 4 ohm load. The amplifier does not have to work as hard to drive 4 ohms and probably puts out more power. Once again I would contact Acura to find out what the amplifier rating is at 2 and 4 ohms.
Actually it would put out 1/2 the power. And Yes, Acordding to Acura, the separete amp in the LS/GS are rated at 2ohms.

4. I am looking at the wiring diagram of the stereo in the 1994 helms manual. All models show 4 channels with two speakers connected in parallel to each. If the 80 watt amp is rated at 4 ohms, I am guessing that the speakers are 8 ohms and the two speakers in parallel present a 4 ohm load to the amp. I am guessing that the 200 watt setup uses two 4 ohm speakers in parallel for each channel to present a 2 ohm load to the amp.
In 94, the 80watt built-in amp is rated at 4ohms, and the main speakers are 4ohms, but the 4 tweeters have really high impedence close to 8-12ohms. When running a tweeter and a 4ohm speaker in parallel, the total resistence of the 2 combined is close to to 4ohms (more like 3.xx ohms). Therefore the system is still considered to be 4ohms. Same reason goes for the 200watt separate amp setup, execpt now the main speakers are 4ohms.

And Yes, research is very important when installing your own car audio, do all your homework before changing any part of your stereo system. But my recommandation is still to get rid of all stock crap and go with a whole new system, saves a lot of time and troubles with what goes with stock and what not. Because most aftermarket stuff will go with other aftermarket stuff, that's the whole point of aftermarket.
 

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Impedance: An amplifier sends a complex AC signal to a speaker. The signal frequency varies. A speaker is a complex mechanical device which has a resistive, capacitive, and inductive component. An ohm-meter sends a dc current to the speaker and the reading you get is nothing more than the resistance of the speaker coil. To test impedance you need an AC signal generator and some other stuff.

Power: You are correct that according to ohms law power would be cut in half although alot depends on amplifier design and the maximum current and voltage output of the amp. Usually the specs give a power rating for 8, 4, and 2 ohms. Perhaps I will measure mine some day.
 

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CWA-94GS said:
Impedance: An amplifier sends a complex AC signal to a speaker. The signal frequency varies. A speaker is a complex mechanical device which has a resistive, capacitive, and inductive component. An ohm-meter sends a dc current to the speaker and the reading you get is nothing more than the resistance of the speaker coil. To test impedance you need an AC signal generator and some other stuff.
You are correct about the impedance. But to measure nominal impedance, you have to take away the inductive and capacitive properties and treat the component as a resister in a DC circuit. And nominal impedance is what manufactures use to rate their speakers.
 

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Nominal impedance of a speaker is measured by injecting an AC (sine) signal into the speaker at different frequencies in the audio band. Although the impedance varies with frequency, the nominal impedance is sort of the average impedance at all the frequencies. There is no such thing as DC impedance, just resistance. The two terms are often mixed up. When testing an amplifier power output and frequency response, The speaker is removed and a power resistor is connected in its place. This removes the inductive and capcitive components so the amplifer sees the same impedance at all frequencies. An AC sine signal is applied and the power is measured at various frequencies while the resistor presents a constant impedance. Never connect a DC signal to a speaker it could potentially overheat the coil or damage the speaker.
 

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So is this correct?

WhiteLegend said:

Anyway this is how the stereo system setup goes:
91-95 L -> 2200 with 80W built in at 4ohm (91-92 L also had the built in EQ)
91-92 LS -> 2100 with 80W seperate amp at 1-2ohm
93-95 LS -> 2100 with 200W seperate amp at 1-2ohm
94-95 GS -> 2100 with 200W seperate amp 1-2ohm
95 SE -> 2200 with 80W built in at 4ohm

No L model ever came with a separete amp behind the back seat, only LS/GS did.
 
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