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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Whats up? Ok towards the end of last summer when i bought my coupe, the a/c worked fine, it blew out cold air. then there was a strange whining noise coming from under the hood, so a friend of mine who knows a little more about cars then me, took off one of the belts and the whining stopped. but now the a/c would still blow, but it was warm air. since it was getting close to winter and i wouldnt need a/c i figured i'd just wait till it started getting hot again. well its that time cause its hot as hell outside and it feels like a sauna in my car... anybody have any ideas what i should do, could it be i need some frion, or something else? if it a/c compressor it gonna really suck, its gonna be on hot ass summer cause i sure dont have like $900 to get that fixed. what exactly is the a/c compressor and any sypmtoms of one if its bad:confused: sorry so many questions... THANKS for any help:)
 

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well, the whining is prob from the bearings in the a/c compressor, thats why your freind cut the belt for it...unfortunately the bearings can not be replaced, so you have to go get a new or used compressor for your car...or you can find one in the junk yard for bout 100 bucks...somewhat easy to replace if you worked on cars before...just 4 screws holding it in place...after you replace the compressor...buy a new belt for it and then bring it in to get professionally recharged...that way they can clean out the compressor and check for leaks before refilling it with new freon....speaking all this from experience...hoped it helped...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah man thanks........ i see what youre saying. you think it possible to find a used one for a $100 or 2? that would be excellent if i could.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Legend?

sorry one more question.... what is the a/c compressor clutch pulley? could only that be replaced if that was causing the problem? thanks.
 

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nope...the clutch pulley is attached to the compressor which can not be removed...and the bearings that went bad are the ones for the that pulley...sorry...if you have junk yards near by...its a good idea to check them out or call around at least...i know i got mine from the junkyard for 100 last summer and it still works fine...
 

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Possible reasons could be...

Self check diagnosis of "Triple Pressure Switch"
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If you want to check the A/C triple pressure switch it is on the high pressure line going to the dryer/receiver (in front next to condensor). If there is NO continuity between the #1 and #2 terminals, then system pressure needs to be checked. The 1 & 2 terminal are under the rectangular tabs of the switch opening, 180 degrees from each other (opposite). Ignition switch should be off doing this test. If A/C system pressure is OK, then A/C triple pressure switch is bad and needs to be replaced. If there is continuity in this circuit, then either a poor ground for the fan control unit or bad fan control unit could be the cause. I would bet on either low pressure in the system (1) or a bad triple pressure switch (2).

Self check diagnostics routine of "Climatic Control"
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1st of all, the climatic control system contains a self diagnostic
function. To activate it, ignition = ON and FAN switch = [AUTO]
After ~ 1 minute press simultaneously [AUTO] and [OFF] switches together.
Did you received a CODE ? If yes (oh shxt!), you´ll see it through
flashing signals,which appears on the display (climatic control unit)(see below (A) - (G))

Describing of the misc buttons:
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(A) = Cool Fluid Temp Sensor
(B) = Air Mix Control Motor
(C) = Sunlight Sensor
(D) = Temperature (Out) Sensor
(E) = Evaporating Temperatur Sensor
(F) = Modes Control Unit
(G) = Temperature (Inner) Sensor

Through this checking, all functions of the climatic control system will be automatic choosed and confirmed. That´s good for identifying, if you DON´T GET any code by the Self-Diagnostic.
In this case (if you don´t get any codes), it exists a 2nd possibility:

1. Switch ON the FAN switch = [AUTO]
2. Then press simultaneously Button [MODE] and [AUTO] TOGETHER and HOLD these two buttons, if you start the Engine.

What happens here ?
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The Climatic Control Unit checks yourself automatically in eight steps (one step needs to be 5 seceonds). If you want to interrupt this step, press [MODE]. If you cancel the entire procedure, press [OFF] or ignition switch to Off.Temperature, Volumen (capacity) and origin of the airflow must be checked
out and camparing of the scheduled value with the table below !

Radiator check
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Check to make sure both fans behind the radiator is working.

Filter check
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From the factory, there is no filter, but you can put one in the same place as the 92's and up. Go back a few posts, can't remember which forum...there was a big write up on it.The '91 does not have a filter, but you can put one in. Just get a filter listed for the '92+ and it'll fit.
You're going o have to do a little diagnosis. Remove the glovebox and the air filter. When the A/C starts to get warm, take a look in the slot left by the filter and check if your expansion valve is covered with frost. If it is, you have a partial blockage and it must be replaced.

Refridgerant Fluid
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Every A/C will leak out refridgerant, just depends on how bad the leak may be. Get a leak test (dye test) performed and then make sure that the the pressure in the system is correct. Some of these "AC technicians" are a bunch of boneheads and frequently over charge your system, which leads to component failure. A $50 guage is all you need to check the pressure yourself.

Hope this helps... :confused:

Mike / Cologne
 

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Acurate420-
I have the same story as you for the most part. Except I would describe the sound coming from the dash area was a high pitch whistling like noise going into winter(October) and a loss of cold air. I too figured I let it go through winter. Now that summer almost here(Arizona Summer will make you look forward to a vacation in Hell just to get away from the heat) I figured I'd take it in to a shop and get freon added. This is what I learned- The a/c system is a sealed system much like a refrigerator. A system will only need freon if there's a leak. To find a leak a dye, that is black light visible is added. The freon and dye is allowed to flow through the system until it is exhausted(maybe a couple of months for a pin-hole leak or immeadiately with a bad o-ring) then a mechanic can follow the a/c plumbing with the black light and find the leak. In my case I had a bad o-ring($2.00 o-ring $110 labor and $85 freon(R-12)). With the new o-ring the system was sealed but there was over pressure on the high side line. Mechanic said it was a frozen expansion valve(The only reason I believed him is the whistling noise that was coming from the dash back in October I guess the pressure blew the O-ring instead of freezing up and destroying the compressor[good-bad luck]). The shop said a new expansion valve would be $82 and labor $320. Phuk that ordered the part from h&a motorsports for $67 I have a helms manual. I'll have to pull the dash, blower, and heater core to replace the expansion valve then have the system filled with R-12 again($85).
 
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